Wishbone Bolt is siezed to bush
Discussion
Having disassembled my rear suspension ready for rebushing, I'm now having a go at the front. However, both rear mounting bolts for the lower wishbones have seized (see piccie)
Now, I've got the nuts off, and the bolts will turn reluctantly. I suspect they have seized to the bush inner, and when I turn the bolt, it's turning the bush with it.
I can't really get a drift on the end of the bolt as the body footwells are in the way, so I'm a bit stuck as to what to do.
Has anyone had a similar problem, and how did they solve it?
Many thanks in advance!
Now, I've got the nuts off, and the bolts will turn reluctantly. I suspect they have seized to the bush inner, and when I turn the bolt, it's turning the bush with it.
I can't really get a drift on the end of the bolt as the body footwells are in the way, so I'm a bit stuck as to what to do.
Has anyone had a similar problem, and how did they solve it?
Many thanks in advance!
I removed this bolt today also, but without a problem sorry 
I would suggest keep on turning the bolt and hope it comes free, add some heat and releasing fluid if you can (although not at the same time!). Once the bolt is turning quite freely get a screwdriver between the bolt head and the wishbone mount and prise the bolt out whilst you are still turning it.
Maybe you could cut the head off it and try and force it the other way, I know you can't remove it in that direction but once it's free it may come out the correct way.
Sorry I can't help more.
Good luck, it's an arse when you expect a job to take 10 minutes takes a whole day isn't it!
I would suggest keep on turning the bolt and hope it comes free, add some heat and releasing fluid if you can (although not at the same time!). Once the bolt is turning quite freely get a screwdriver between the bolt head and the wishbone mount and prise the bolt out whilst you are still turning it.
Maybe you could cut the head off it and try and force it the other way, I know you can't remove it in that direction but once it's free it may come out the correct way.
Sorry I can't help more.
Good luck, it's an arse when you expect a job to take 10 minutes takes a whole day isn't it!
Thanks for the advise, guys. I don't think I can get in behind the bolt with anything substantial as there's only about 1/2" between the chassis rail and the body (more on the passenger side, strangely) so I was thinking I might have to grind the head off the bolt and drift it from this side.
As you say, even if it won't go all the way out, once it's free I can drift it back the right way.
Only problem is there's not much room around the bolt head, due to the flanges on the chassis bracket, so an angle grinder would be too big.
I was going to have a look for some kind of grinding stone attachment for my Black & Decker.
Since they were both seized, I wondered if I was missing the fact that they were a different fixing than the others, but it sounds not.
This is the third weekend the car's been off the road whilst doing this job, but hey, there's no point in rushing it, and the weather's hardly the best!
As you say, even if it won't go all the way out, once it's free I can drift it back the right way.
Only problem is there's not much room around the bolt head, due to the flanges on the chassis bracket, so an angle grinder would be too big.
I was going to have a look for some kind of grinding stone attachment for my Black & Decker.
Since they were both seized, I wondered if I was missing the fact that they were a different fixing than the others, but it sounds not.
This is the third weekend the car's been off the road whilst doing this job, but hey, there's no point in rushing it, and the weather's hardly the best!
I worked mine out by sitting with air ratchet 'undoing' and a bit of pressure with a pry bar. Eventually the turning heated it up and it came free. One was very tight and I soaked with a little old brake fluid.
IIRC you can get a large centre punch to the back and club it enough so that you can get a pry bar behind the washer on the front. It still needed a lot of winding out with some leverage as assistance.
I didnt have the bush turning tho....
HTH, Dave
IIRC you can get a large centre punch to the back and club it enough so that you can get a pry bar behind the washer on the front. It still needed a lot of winding out with some leverage as assistance.
I didnt have the bush turning tho....
HTH, Dave
Thanks for the offer, but turning it isn't a problem, I think it's just turning the inner bush sleeve in the bush rubber. It's separating the bolt from the sleeve that seems to be the issue.
If I can't get in with the angle grinder, I'm going to have a go at hacksawing / cutting wheel the bolt through at either end of the bush.
If I can't get in with the angle grinder, I'm going to have a go at hacksawing / cutting wheel the bolt through at either end of the bush.
Just put the nut back on so you can get a punch at an angle on the bolt end but stopped from slipping by the inside of the nut, then smash the hell out of it, you must have enough room for that.
If it doesn't come out, you need a bigger hammer or keep quiet because people will start to question your manhood :-)
Sometimes brute force is the simplest answer, just make sure the car is high enough & well supported.
Dont forget to make the mistake the last person did, plenty of copper slip on re-assembly (bet it was FSH at a main dealer last time.....)
Dave
If it doesn't come out, you need a bigger hammer or keep quiet because people will start to question your manhood :-)
Sometimes brute force is the simplest answer, just make sure the car is high enough & well supported.
Dont forget to make the mistake the last person did, plenty of copper slip on re-assembly (bet it was FSH at a main dealer last time.....)
Dave
I say cut the part out and buy a new wishbone, they really are not that expensive. I spent ages getting the same bolt out then when preparing for painting a few hoes appeared, so had to get new anyway, I also had to replace the top ball joint and wishbone because one of those bolts were rusted solid. The only problem is that the wishbones come pre-fitted with rubber bushes rather than poly ones. I also went out and bought a tube of copper ease for the bolts to make life better for “ the next man” If I was attempting the job again I would fit new wishbones, bolts and ball joints all round, no question. Well worth the extra cost in saved time and hassle.
Just to keep the thread updated in case anyone needs this info in the future, I managed to remove the lowe wishbones today with an angle grinder. Not as serious as it sounds - there's just enough room between the wishbone and the braket to get in there.
I tried the reciprocating saw, but they don't seem to do tunsten carbide blades for it, and the bolts being hardened were wearing the blades out quicker than they were cutting the metal.
Next job is to get them shotblasted prior to repainting and reasseemling with the new polybusehes and Nitrons, if the bushes ever turn up!
I tried the reciprocating saw, but they don't seem to do tunsten carbide blades for it, and the bolts being hardened were wearing the blades out quicker than they were cutting the metal.
Next job is to get them shotblasted prior to repainting and reasseemling with the new polybusehes and Nitrons, if the bushes ever turn up!
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