Front suspension and brakes rebuild
Discussion
Little write-up of the rebuild of a '93 430 brakes and suspension
This all started out of need for new brakes, as they were worn. So, decided to not only renew them, but also put some larger ones on. Whilst dismantling, decided to check the complete suspension as well.
This is how it started;
The top ball-joints both proved to have play in them > replaced for new
The RH bottom ball-joint was seized > replaced both for new
Droplinks were toast > changed for new, Leven
For good measure replaced the track rod ends for new …..
The since May new Billies were applied with height-adjusters
I then had the wish-bones shot-blasted………….horror ! the RH bottom one was rusted thru in various locations + it had a dent in it………..(the rust was NOT visible prior the shot blast = be aware !)
The top wishbones were the older two piece items, so decided to change the whole she-bang for new ( I had become very good friends with Power by then….)
Now that everything was off, the wheel-arches were cleaned and painted, underbody cleaned and painted and the chassis cleaned, de-rusted where needed (very little), painted and clear waxoyled .
The cars outriggers are one year old, but I was still surprised to find some stone-chips, have decided to DIY an outrigger-protector (will report findings…..)
Brakes;
Finally decided to do the 888/887 upgrade
Discs; EBC n° GD483 282 mm, vented, dimpled and grooved
Pads; EBC yellow DP4956
Braided flex hoses
Upright barackets need drilling to 12 mm, 1.5 mm space between bracket and calipers
After installation all was tried and tested, all good ! No more vibrations in the steering wheel, lighter steering (non PAS) and braking is improved considerably. Balance, geo and corner-weigh to follow...
Now for the rear brakes and suspension to be tackled (in the New Year) !
Frank
This all started out of need for new brakes, as they were worn. So, decided to not only renew them, but also put some larger ones on. Whilst dismantling, decided to check the complete suspension as well.
This is how it started;
The top ball-joints both proved to have play in them > replaced for new
The RH bottom ball-joint was seized > replaced both for new
Droplinks were toast > changed for new, Leven
For good measure replaced the track rod ends for new …..
The since May new Billies were applied with height-adjusters
I then had the wish-bones shot-blasted………….horror ! the RH bottom one was rusted thru in various locations + it had a dent in it………..(the rust was NOT visible prior the shot blast = be aware !)
The top wishbones were the older two piece items, so decided to change the whole she-bang for new ( I had become very good friends with Power by then….)
Now that everything was off, the wheel-arches were cleaned and painted, underbody cleaned and painted and the chassis cleaned, de-rusted where needed (very little), painted and clear waxoyled .
The cars outriggers are one year old, but I was still surprised to find some stone-chips, have decided to DIY an outrigger-protector (will report findings…..)
Brakes;
Finally decided to do the 888/887 upgrade
Discs; EBC n° GD483 282 mm, vented, dimpled and grooved
Pads; EBC yellow DP4956
Braided flex hoses
Upright barackets need drilling to 12 mm, 1.5 mm space between bracket and calipers
After installation all was tried and tested, all good ! No more vibrations in the steering wheel, lighter steering (non PAS) and braking is improved considerably. Balance, geo and corner-weigh to follow...
Now for the rear brakes and suspension to be tackled (in the New Year) !
Frank
Edited by bluezeeland on Tuesday 8th December 20:07
bluezeeland said:
quick question re the top ball-joints; the 8mm margin in the top wishbone has been filed with washer-spacers at the mo (7 mm front 1 mm rear) should I order for the 'purpose' made jobbies ?
That’s a matter of opinion. I doubt you’ll notice the difference of 1mm further back but still worth it while your suspension is apart. The further back the top ball joint the strong the self-centring effect which improves straight line stability but makes manual steering heaver.stevesprint said:
bluezeeland said:
quick question re the top ball-joints; the 8mm margin in the top wishbone has been filed with washer-spacers at the mo (7 mm front 1 mm rear) should I order for the 'purpose' made jobbies ?
That’s a matter of opinion. I doubt you’ll notice the difference of 1mm further back but still worth it while your suspension is apart. The further back the top ball joint the strong the self-centring effect which improves straight line stability but makes manual steering heaver.Gassing Station | Griffith | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff