Radiator Rubbers

[FlipFlopGriff]

Anyone know what these look like or where to get them from? I've had a quick look but its difficult to see.
I've bought an aluminium jobbie and want to get it in before it gets damaged - it's currently in the living room!!
FFG

[BigGriff]

Unless they have been damaged getting them in or out the likelihood is you should be able to use the existing ones.

Richard

[FlipFlopGriff]

I'd like to get some replacements just in case as when I've got the old one out I can't afford the time to wait for new rubbers if I damage them as the car is used daily.
The cost is going to be pennies so that isn't a concern. As they are 8 years old they're probably perishing anyway.
FFG

[david beer]

With my ally rad i could not use the original rubbers, they left the rad sitting out of true compared with the roll bar. I left mine out and made the seal around the rad the "suspension", if you are tight with time you should set some aside for a seal all round the rad, to "bung" any gap between the rad and the body. Also you should trim 10mm off the side brackets, otherwise you will scrape the inner wings, thats if you have the same one, that is.

[rolfe]

What you have to be careful of when fixing the alli radiators is the theory versus the actual facts.
Ali rads tend to be hand made and discrepancies do happen on all the mounting brackets.
I like David Beer had a terrible job to locate the pins into the bottom mounting points and in the end had to resort to trimming the pins.
I also meticulously back marked the side mounting points from the original radiator but found the pins had in fact raised the radiator by substantially more than I had considered.
Add to that its a nightmare to keep putting it in and take out so my final piece of advise for what it is worth is dont tackel it by yourself!!!
(They are worth every bit of the effort when there in and working though).

[FlipFlopGriff]

I have noticed the side brackets have no holes in so I had already planned to have to install it to line up the holes then take it out again. Hopefully, I 'll not have to remove it too many times. Thnaks for the tips.
How thick should the rubber be for the pins and around the rad frame? I can then buy some and cut to suit. This should cover all angles.
FFG

[david beer]

As far as the rad gap, i guess it will depend, mine is around 1cm in places and some places 2cm !! Probably easier to fill the gaps once its on, you can stuff from inside the mouth, thats what i did. Mine also came "holeless" and i placed it back to back with the old one, still had to enlarge the holes. Where are you planning to put the otter ? Personally i dont use an otter, prefering an adjustable on outlet of the rad, where it should be.

[stesrg]

When I fitted my alloy rad i found the top mounts were a little to long and wanted to gouge the inner wings, made an accurare measurment and hacksawed off the exess and cleaned it up with a flap wheel, I think you will most certainly need to trim a little off, as regards the bottom rubbers mine were like new and their were no signes of any perishing however I had to slightly elongate one of the holes to allow the bottom fixings to drop in 5mm out on the distance,
do not forget to use a little black sealer if you have to do this.
Steve...

[FlipFlopGriff]

Thanks all. As with all these jobs they are never as straight forward as first appears.
David - Isn't the otter at the base of the swirl tank, hence I don't need to move it. Your suggestion sounds logical although I am not really too technical but don't mind having a go. Is your suugestion something I can purchase and wire the existing otter connectoin too, ie rendering the existing otter obselete. If it's not too difficult I am willing to give it a go. Assume the fans will kick in earlier with your suggestion which must be a good thing.
FFG

[david beer]

FFG, i did not see your car before making myself look daft ! Not sure what age but later cars had the otter on the rad, but on the input. I guess you must of told them where your otter was so they didnt supply a pipe for insertion of the otter. By having the sensor on the output of the rad, you can monitor its cooling effect, the temp rise will be much much quicker at this point than waiting for the engine temp to rise and turn the fans on. Farnell sell an adjustable thermostat for £14 from memory, not sure if you have to have an account, but i have anyway.

[shpub]

Don't make a hole... cut the bracket so that it is a scollop. This gives some movement and makes life so much easier.

PS don't forget to clean the earth bolt under the rad. You will never have a better opportunity.

[FlipFlopGriff]

Good point Steve.

David - Didn't mean to be derogatory - I guess all cars are different. It is a '97 Serp.
How would I do this and could it be done after the rad is fitted as I intend doing it tomorrow or Sunday.
FFG

[spend]

I would strongly concur with David on controlling radiator fans based on output temperature level.

I had otter switch plumbed on lower right (output) of rad, which to me is the most logical position. If rad is not returning cool coolant (over 82c in my case) fans are switched on until coolant is down to required level (68c in my case). Above 40mph the fans spin due to ram air so no need to turn them on at the speed which a switch mounted on the input side will do, just for the sake of it IMHO.

I fitted LEDs to indicate supply voltage to fan motors, and was surprised to see them glow at 40mph, fully lit at 60mph, due to fan motors acting as dynamos....

Now if you want fans to waft air in a hot engine bay, thats a different matter....

Dave