Another really stupid question
Discussion
Which way do I turn the nitrons to increase the ride height as the exhaust keeps catching on our drive (I've already raised the exhaust and inch or so).
I've turned it anti clockwise and clockwise 10 turns each and it seems to make bugger all difference either way.
My original view was that if I turn it down the threads then then the spring would be under less tension and raise the height of the car. The people that fitted then told me the opposite so tried that and this has had little effect. I thought that this may work as the spring is under more tension it may force the ride height up. I can jjst about get one finger between the tyre and the arch and the tyres are almost due for replacement.
As they are a blob to move I want to know definitively which way is correct..
Dumb as ever - FFG
I've turned it anti clockwise and clockwise 10 turns each and it seems to make bugger all difference either way.
My original view was that if I turn it down the threads then then the spring would be under less tension and raise the height of the car. The people that fitted then told me the opposite so tried that and this has had little effect. I thought that this may work as the spring is under more tension it may force the ride height up. I can jjst about get one finger between the tyre and the arch and the tyres are almost due for replacement.
As they are a blob to move I want to know definitively which way is correct..
Dumb as ever - FFG
Providing there is some stroke left on the damper, turn the spring seats so that they compress the spring to raise the ride height. Basically, the further the spring seat pushes the spring up, the more the spring pushes the body up.
Obviously, if the damper is already at full extension when under normal load (ie. the car sitting on its wheels), this won't make a blind bit of difference, it will just put more preload onto the spring!
You should have some droop left on the dampers, if the correct springs and dampers have been fitted, but the easy way to check is to try and lift the car at the wheelarch whilst it is sitting on its wheels. It should lift on the springs as you pull against it. If the dampers are at full extension, you will be trying to lift the whole weight of the car, so unless your name is Geoff Capes, it won't move much (just a bit of tyre deflection).
Also, unless you want to ruin the cars handling, get the adjustment done by by someone who has a set of corner weight scales: you need to ensure that the corner weights are not upset by your adjustments.
>> Edited by Martin_S on Thursday 17th February 13:42
Obviously, if the damper is already at full extension when under normal load (ie. the car sitting on its wheels), this won't make a blind bit of difference, it will just put more preload onto the spring!
You should have some droop left on the dampers, if the correct springs and dampers have been fitted, but the easy way to check is to try and lift the car at the wheelarch whilst it is sitting on its wheels. It should lift on the springs as you pull against it. If the dampers are at full extension, you will be trying to lift the whole weight of the car, so unless your name is Geoff Capes, it won't move much (just a bit of tyre deflection).
Also, unless you want to ruin the cars handling, get the adjustment done by by someone who has a set of corner weight scales: you need to ensure that the corner weights are not upset by your adjustments.
>> Edited by Martin_S on Thursday 17th February 13:42
FlipFlopGriff said:
Which way do I turn the nitrons to increase the ride height as the exhaust keeps catching on our drive (I've already raised the exhaust and inch or so).
I've turned it anti clockwise and clockwise 10 turns each and it seems to make bugger all difference either way.
My original view was that if I turn it down the threads then then the spring would be under less tension and raise the height of the car. The people that fitted then told me the opposite so tried that and this has had little effect. I thought that this may work as the spring is under more tension it may force the ride height up. I can jjst about get one finger between the tyre and the arch and the tyres are almost due for replacement.
As they are a blob to move I want to know definitively which way is correct..
Dumb as ever - FFG
Crikey! you've done a bit of work on your Griff, haven't you?
What Coala says is very true...you will potentially upset the camber and toe settings, too, by adjusting the ride height.
Actually, with a perfectly designed suspension, toe should not be effected by vertical suspension movement. Unfortunately, the Griffith isn't perfect - it suffers from a limited amount of bump steer - so it will.
Probably not what you want to hear, but you really do need to get a full corner weighting and geo set-up if you are messing about with the ride height.
There's no point in spending a fortune on a high quality adjustable dampers like Nitrons, only to set the ride height/corner weights and geo by rule of thumb!
>> Edited by Martin_S on Thursday 17th February 19:02
Actually, with a perfectly designed suspension, toe should not be effected by vertical suspension movement. Unfortunately, the Griffith isn't perfect - it suffers from a limited amount of bump steer - so it will.
Probably not what you want to hear, but you really do need to get a full corner weighting and geo set-up if you are messing about with the ride height.
There's no point in spending a fortune on a high quality adjustable dampers like Nitrons, only to set the ride height/corner weights and geo by rule of thumb!
>> Edited by Martin_S on Thursday 17th February 19:02
If the toe is badly out the car will twitch like a good 'un under braking and scare the living daylights out of you as you start applying lock to keep the car straight...
It is really essential to get the car corner weighted for your setup (1/2 people, luggage etc) and weight can affect everything.
It is really essential to get the car corner weighted for your setup (1/2 people, luggage etc) and weight can affect everything.
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