Valley gasket change
Discussion
I'm thinking about changing the valley gasket as its looked ropey for years now and having read as much as I can. I still have some unanswered questions as my knowledge of engine rebuilds is zero and I am doubting my own ability and am still debating if I should get a garage to do the work or not, but another big bill is not what I need right now. I've done plenum and trumpet changes before alongside a little rewiring in the past, but is that sufficient skill for this task.
Are there any pit falls and which gaskets should I go for, especially as I want to avoid the need for a skim. Where exactly do I need to put sealant during the new installation as I can get my head around where exactly people are describing and dont want to have the thing in bits and then not know what to do.And finally on the rebuild what torque settings do all the bolts need to be, again can't find this info.
If anybody has any pictures or guide tips they could send me that would be great.
Are there any pit falls and which gaskets should I go for, especially as I want to avoid the need for a skim. Where exactly do I need to put sealant during the new installation as I can get my head around where exactly people are describing and dont want to have the thing in bits and then not know what to do.And finally on the rebuild what torque settings do all the bolts need to be, again can't find this info.
If anybody has any pictures or guide tips they could send me that would be great.
Changing the valley gasket is relatively straightforward. However I'm not sure what you think might need to be skimmed.
Things to be wary of - plug the trumpets and then the inlets with cloth to stop things dropping in them while you are working on the engine.
Here are some pictures of my engine when I changed the valley gasket which might help you out.
Engine with plenum removed
Trumpets and base removed
Inlet manifold removed showing valley gasket
Valley gasket removed
Things to be wary of - plug the trumpets and then the inlets with cloth to stop things dropping in them while you are working on the engine.
Here are some pictures of my engine when I changed the valley gasket which might help you out.
Engine with plenum removed
Trumpets and base removed
Inlet manifold removed showing valley gasket
Valley gasket removed
TVR Power will have everything for you, although this of Ebay is exactly the same.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/INLET-VALLEY-MANIFOLD-GA...
In the corners you just need a little high temp rtv gasket sealant.
Inlet manifold bolts are 30lbft.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/INLET-VALLEY-MANIFOLD-GA...
In the corners you just need a little high temp rtv gasket sealant.
Inlet manifold bolts are 30lbft.
It is worth offering up the gasket to the ports first to check the holes are big enough. On my heads I have to enlarge the holes slightly otherwise they block a bit of port. Standard heads may more closely match the standard gasket but it is worth checking. Put plenty of silicone on the ends or it will leak.
So embarrassingly, three years after my first post on how do change the valley gasket i've finally treating the car to a early Christmas present and started. all has been removed easy, so far so good. But I think some four legged furry creature has been having the time of it's life by the state it was under the manifold.
My question to those how have it, how can you torque up the bolts when putting it together again. I can get to 6 of them no problem but the others there is no way I can get to them without taking the injector rail all off, which I don't want to do. Any tips
My question to those how have it, how can you torque up the bolts when putting it together again. I can get to 6 of them no problem but the others there is no way I can get to them without taking the injector rail all off, which I don't want to do. Any tips
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