Oil for Griffith 500

[jamesbilluk]

Hi all,

Im looking to get some oil for the Griffith 500, Im just wondering which oil is recommended,

Many thanks

James.

[jesfirth]

I use good quality mineral or semi synthetic 10/60. Opinions vary though

[Big Ashy]

Use the search function, as Jes says above options and opinions vary but advice from folk in the know leans towards a 20/50 oil with a high zinc content such as Valvoline VR1.

I'm not personally using this at the moment but will do next service

[jamesbilluk]

Many thanks I did have a search, but saw various different viscosities recommended, I'll get some of the Valvoline VR1 tonight.

James

[FlipFlopGriff]

I've been using this on both Griffs for 6 or 7 years now:
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-68899-fuchs-titan-race...
Opie often do discounts and free 1 litre top ups.
Good zinc content and the esther based content apparently means it reduces any breakdown when it gets hot.
FFG

[TVR Beaver]

FlipFlopGriff said:

I've been using this on both Griffs for 6 or 7 years now:
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-68899-fuchs-titan-race...
Opie often do discounts and free 1 litre top ups.
Good zinc content and the esther based content apparently means it reduces any breakdown when it gets hot.
FFG

Used that on mine... and within a few 'K' got small end noise... so won't be going there again... I know they reccomend it but I'm with Valvoline now..... Look at what Power suggest... 10/40 Semi
.
The valvoline people are using above.. is that mineral or synthetic?...

Edited by TVR Beaver on Thursday 7th April 08:46

[andy43]

I'm on the VR1 20/50 - it's mineral but has high zinc content which I have read is a plus for protecting against camshaft wear. Fairly cheap to buy and seems to get mostly positive comments on here. Maybe a bit thick for regular cold starts - I'd ideally prefer a xx/60 next time provided the mythical zinc content is the same, to see if my oil pressure comes up slightly when hot - currently 25-30 psi-ish on tickover. I only do low mileage and will change it myself every 3-4k. If I was paying a garage I'd maybe buy something synthetic and keep it in for longer.
I've used Pro S in another car as it is very highly thought of - the Fuchs Pro R spec-wise would beat the VR1 hands down but it is pricey - but then what price a new cam - you get what you pay for I suppose.

[FlipFlopGriff]

TVR Beaver said:

Used that on mine... and within a few 'K' got small end noise... so won't be going there again... I know they reccomend it but I'm with Valvoline now..... Look at what Power suggest... 10/40 Semi
.
The valvoline people are using above.. is that mineral or synthetic?...

Edited by TVR Beaver on Thursday 7th April 08:46

Must be coincidence John. Done about 60k on the 2 cars with no issues and lots of Griff owners use it.
Good oil pressure.
FFG

[TVR Beaver]

andy43 said:

I'm on the VR1 20/50 - it's mineral but has high zinc content which I have read is a plus for protecting against camshaft wear. Fairly cheap to buy and seems to get mostly positive comments on here. Maybe a bit thick for regular cold starts - I'd ideally prefer a xx/60 next time provided the mythical zinc content is the same, to see if my oil pressure comes up slightly when hot - currently 25-30 psi-ish on tickover. I only do low mileage and will change it myself every 3-4k. If I was paying a garage I'd maybe buy something synthetic and keep it in for longer.
I've used Pro S in another car as it is very highly thought of - the Fuchs Pro R spec-wise would beat the VR1 hands down but it is pricey - but then what price a new cam - you get what you pay for I suppose.

yes and no.. as I say... I'm sure the PRO S / R went a long way to doing my small ends in... it does not splash about as it's 'mangentic' (our small ends are splash fed) and it's thicker so can it splash in the small end in the right volume needed to keep them lubricated / cool?
When I measured my old pistons and tried them dry, there was no noticable gap at room temp... thats with the pin pushed into both sides... put the pin in one side only and you did get a slight bit of movement... So is t a case of the bores on both sides of the piston line up better when hot so you see the play?.. I think piston design has a lot to do with this and cropping the skirt off may contribute...
Real bearings in the small ends is the way to go

[MPoxon]

I use GTX Magnetec 10/40 semi synthetic.

[TVR Beaver]

FlipFlopGriff said:

Must be coincidence John. Done about 60k on the 2 cars with no issues and lots of Griff owners use it.
Good oil pressure.
FFG

May be.. but i'm sure yours makes the noise now... was listerning to it at a Growl one time when it was on the rollers

[andy43]

Just to clarify, this little end noise is just 4.6/5.0+ cars right? My ickle 4 litre doesn't seem to do it anyway... yet

[carsy]

The 4ltr`s are terrible for it. Its only time if it doesnt do it yet.

















Only joking Never heard a 3.9 do it. I recon nearly all the 5 ltr`s do it.

[andy43]

carsy said:

The 4ltr`s are terrible for it. Its only time if it doesnt do it yet.

Git
I knew there was one advantage to being less well-endowed than other Griffs...

[Big Ashy]

Big Ashy said:

Use the search function, as Jes says above options and opinions vary but advice from folk in the know leans towards a 20/50 oil with a high zinc content such as Valvoline VR1.

I'm not personally using this at the moment but will do next service

Just ordered 10 litres of Valvoline VR1 with free STP Injector cleaner off Amazon for 59.99 inc VAT and free delivery which I thought was very reasonable :

[blitzracing]

https://www.penriteoil.com.au/products.php?id_cate...

[FlipFlopGriff]

TVR Beaver said:

May be.. but i'm sure yours makes the noise now... was listerning to it at a Growl one time when it was on the rollers

Just the exhaust.
FFG

[alexcurtis]

Another for 10w40 semi dropped every 2-3k using coma currently and of course changing the filter!