Front top wishbone spacers
Front top wishbone spacers
Author
Discussion

hillclimbmanic

Original Poster:

674 posts

166 months

Friday 22nd April 2016
quotequote all
After ordering 8mm spacers, for my later 'bones, I was informed that they only had 4mm, so they doubled up...Do the later Griff's have 4mm either side, and if so, why?

What should I do? I spaced them out with washers on one side of the ball joint(whilst waiting for delivery), just to mock up, and it looks right... confused

Edited by hillclimbmanic on Friday 22 April 06:56

PeteGriff

1,262 posts

179 months

Friday 22nd April 2016
quotequote all
hillclimbmanic said:
After ordering 8mm spacers, for my later 'bones, I was informed that they only had 4mm, so they doubled up...Do the later Griff's have 4mm either side, and if so, why?

What should I do? I spaced them out with washers on one side of the ball joint(whilst waiting for delivery), just to mock up, and it looks right... confused

Edited by hillclimbmanic on Friday 22 April 06:56
Paul, I personally would space them out either side. When I refurbished my front wishbones a few years back I replaced the knackered spacers with some stainless ones I made, spaced either side. I have very recently bought a new set of front wishbone from RT Racing (lovely quality) and intend to fit them over next couple of months. I will not be using Polybushes anymore, fitted those last time and they now rattle as I go over bumps etc, RT supplied a set of the original 'metalastic' type. If you need any thinner spacers let me know, I may have a few spare in the workshop in stainless! Might even be worth me getting a batch laser cut if there was enough interest? Regards, Pete

Pete Mac

757 posts

159 months

Friday 22nd April 2016
quotequote all
PeteGriff said:
Paul, I personally would space them out either side. When I refurbished my front wishbones a few years back I replaced the knackered spacers with some stainless ones I made, spaced either side. I have very recently bought a new set of front wishbone from RT Racing (lovely quality) and intend to fit them over next couple of months. I will not be using Polybushes anymore, fitted those last time and they now rattle as I go over bumps etc, RT supplied a set of the original 'metalastic' type. If you need any thinner spacers let me know, I may have a few spare in the workshop in stainless! Might even be worth me getting a batch laser cut if there was enough interest? Regards, Pete
Pete, count me in for a couple of sets, if you get them done. Pete

PeteGriff

1,262 posts

179 months

Friday 22nd April 2016
quotequote all
Pete Mac said:
Pete, count me in for a couple of sets, if you get them done. Pete
I reckon 2mm would be a good size, could then build up in multiples. Just need to create a small CAD file for the laser cutter. May have a look at that soon whilst I am updating the dashboard files. Regards, Pete

bluezeeland

1,965 posts

181 months

Friday 22nd April 2016
quotequote all
hillclimbmanic said:
After ordering 8mm spacers, for my later 'bones, I was informed that they only had 4mm, so they doubled up...Do the later Griff's have 4mm either side, and if so, why?

What should I do? I spaced them out with washers on one side of the ball joint(whilst waiting for delivery), just to mock up, and it looks right... confused

Edited by hillclimbmanic on Friday 22 April 06:56
The spacers are setting the castor of the front wheels, I believe the early front top wishbones (the two piece) had a designed-in, non-adjustable castor, as the front one is slightly longer then the rear one....

The later wishbones must have a designed-in castor also (as the 'ideal' is 4-5°) as the 8mm spacing will only be able to 'adjust' maximum 2°

Hence if you use the full 8 mm (all at the front, none at the rear) will have you a directional car, yet heavy in steering, 4 mm at the front and back will be a bit less directional but a lot less heavy.

Mine is at 7 front, 1 rear and I will change this to 5/3 shortly as I find it a bit to heavy....

Also, the transversal position of the top ball-joint will dictate the camber too, i.e. you want to have it measured/adjusted

bluezeeland

1,965 posts

181 months

Friday 22nd April 2016
quotequote all
PeteGriff said:
Pete Mac said:
Pete, count me in for a couple of sets, if you get them done. Pete
I reckon 2mm would be a good size, could then build up in multiples. Just need to create a small CAD file for the laser cutter. May have a look at that soon whilst I am updating the dashboard files. Regards, Pete
Hi Pete,

Could I have a set too, please ? But, I would like spacers of 2 mm (6 pieces) and 4 pieces of 1 mm ?

tia

Frank

stevesprint

1,121 posts

201 months

Friday 22nd April 2016
quotequote all
hillclimbmanic said:
After ordering 8mm spacers, for my later 'bones, I was informed that they only had 4mm, so they doubled up...Do the later Griff's have 4mm either side, and if so, why?
As bluezeeland says moving the spacers changes the caster angle which makes the steering lighter for non PAS Griffs , I prefer 8mm in front of the ball joint to increase self-centring and improve straight line stability.

PeteGriff said:
I will not be using Polybushes anymore, fitted those last time and they now rattle as I go over bumps etc,
Peter, I’m very surprised to hear you will no longer use polybushes, are you sure it’s your polybushes rattling? I fitted polybushes 8 years ago and they have always been very quiet and they have seen some use including a few track days. On the two separate occasions I had rattles over bumps it turned out to be rose jointed drop links so I’ve now gone back to standard drop links. I could just about make the drop links rattle/knock by pulling my wheel arch up and down by hand.
Sorry it’s just a thought and I’m sure you know your Griff better than me.