Temp sender doesnt work!!
Discussion
Ok starting to crack a little with the temp gauge! it is dead in fact it really resembles loads of precious posts!!
The gauge flicks a little when i start up, but does nothing else, i know there are three independant sensors and i can find two "for sure"! i see one with a black plastic head directly on top of engine behind Dizzy! (i dont think its this one is it?) there is another on the LHS of engine back as you stand face on and look at it, in the face of the engine! Im always playing with this one!! I had the gauges overhauled by ETB who also sent me a new sensor which looks identical but has a smaller thread
Can anyone direct me to the correct sensor??
The fan seems to work which i expect anyway! and to be honest i'm going out this weekend regardless of that bloody sensor, looks like its time to renew my RAC membership!
The gauge flicks a little when i start up, but does nothing else, i know there are three independant sensors and i can find two "for sure"! i see one with a black plastic head directly on top of engine behind Dizzy! (i dont think its this one is it?) there is another on the LHS of engine back as you stand face on and look at it, in the face of the engine! Im always playing with this one!! I had the gauges overhauled by ETB who also sent me a new sensor which looks identical but has a smaller thread
Can anyone direct me to the correct sensor??
The fan seems to work which i expect anyway! and to be honest i'm going out this weekend regardless of that bloody sensor, looks like its time to renew my RAC membership!
The temperature gauge sender is immediately behind the dizzy and has a green/orange (I think) wire with a single spade terminal on it. It's installed longitudinally, i.e. is screws in from the front towards the back of the car. It's mounted on a brass extension.
The two other senders (ECU temp and spare) are mounted on the passenger side of the engine and are vertical, i.e. the screw in from the top towards the ground. The ECU one has a fancy plastic plug on the end which has a metal retaining clip (as used by VW/Audi, etc).
The spare is immediately next to the ECU sender and has a single bullet point connection (with no wires leading to it obviously as it's spare).
The oil senders are down by the oil filter under the engine and cannot really be confused.
Ian A.
The two other senders (ECU temp and spare) are mounted on the passenger side of the engine and are vertical, i.e. the screw in from the top towards the ground. The ECU one has a fancy plastic plug on the end which has a metal retaining clip (as used by VW/Audi, etc).
The spare is immediately next to the ECU sender and has a single bullet point connection (with no wires leading to it obviously as it's spare).
The oil senders are down by the oil filter under the engine and cannot really be confused.
Ian A.
[quote=IPAddis]The temperature gauge sender is immediately behind the dizzy and has a green/orange (I think) wire with a single spade terminal on it. It's installed longitudinally, i.e. is screws in from the front towards the back of the car. It's mounted on a brass extension.
Is this brass extension screwed directly into the engine block? i dont seem to have that!! The new sensor sent to me is to small but from your description i have been working in the right area! That brass extension, does it reduce the thread size ie, is it an interface
Is this brass extension screwed directly into the engine block? i dont seem to have that!! The new sensor sent to me is to small but from your description i have been working in the right area! That brass extension, does it reduce the thread size ie, is it an interface
david beer said:
Why not use the spare sender on top of the head ? I have and quite a few others. A simple variable resistor to calibrate and no need to fiddle about in the water !
Yep done mine
Kudos to David B for sending me the adapter to wire in the spare sender FOC. It does a damn sight better job than the faulty original sender.
Having said that, it does not appear to be accurate at all temperatures. For example, it speeds it's way around to 70 degrees and then takes an age to get up to 90. This was not the behaviour shown by my original sender while it was working.
As others have said before, the sender needs to be calibrated to the gauge on at least two points. For example the original sender might have shown 200kohms at 50degC and 100kohms for 100degC. If the new gauge has been calibrated to show 100kohms at 100degC, it might only be showing 150kohms at 50degC.
I don't think it's possible to fully calibrate the spare sender using a single variable resistor. However it will be progressively more accurate towards the temperature at which it was calibrated, which may be close enough for some.
Personally, I'm going to have the original sender changed at the next service as I'd like to know the temperature as accurately as possible.
Ian A.
Having said that, it does not appear to be accurate at all temperatures. For example, it speeds it's way around to 70 degrees and then takes an age to get up to 90. This was not the behaviour shown by my original sender while it was working.
As others have said before, the sender needs to be calibrated to the gauge on at least two points. For example the original sender might have shown 200kohms at 50degC and 100kohms for 100degC. If the new gauge has been calibrated to show 100kohms at 100degC, it might only be showing 150kohms at 50degC.
I don't think it's possible to fully calibrate the spare sender using a single variable resistor. However it will be progressively more accurate towards the temperature at which it was calibrated, which may be close enough for some.
Personally, I'm going to have the original sender changed at the next service as I'd like to know the temperature as accurately as possible.
Ian A.
I do not see how a sender that is not in water, as such, can be more accurate. The pipe that it is housed in, has its own heat up and cool down character. On a freezing cold day seeing 60 is not accurate, you should see the water stat rating and like wise getting a hot blast from the under bonnet temps is not accurate. In any case, temp guages are for spotting "non norms" rather than indicating the accurate temp sender temperature.I do 100% agree, its different to the original, but which is more accurate ??if i had my original i would do a test, that gave up after 18 months !! But hey ho, each to their own.
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