Dashboard instrument failure
Discussion
I have lost all power to the dashboard guages of my 92 4.3 except the clock, central locking button and hazards. Everything else works apart from the mirrors and the boot release. I have checked with a test guage each of the fuses (what a job - did it twice to make sure i hadnt missed one) but they are all ok. I think what caused the failure is that the boot release button stuck on (caught in the dashboard hole) but it was not that long till I spotted it. Only other thing I did was to disconnect the battery for a short time to reset the alarm. Does anyone know of any other fuses or ideas of what it could be?
My early chim has the following:
Ignition relay >> white link wire behind fusebox >> ign to dash fuse >> light green wire >> dash connector >> chained to all instruments (except clock which is always live) + heater + warning lights.
I guess the griff is similar, would check at the dash connecter - a large multiplug & the back of the fusebox.
Unless you really disturbed the dash enough to disconnect wiring - I would start at the back of the fusebox - it seems to get a lot of vibration, and since you 'breathed' near the battery....
Dave
Ignition relay >> white link wire behind fusebox >> ign to dash fuse >> light green wire >> dash connector >> chained to all instruments (except clock which is always live) + heater + warning lights.
I guess the griff is similar, would check at the dash connecter - a large multiplug & the back of the fusebox.
Unless you really disturbed the dash enough to disconnect wiring - I would start at the back of the fusebox - it seems to get a lot of vibration, and since you 'breathed' near the battery....
Dave
The ignition relay (in the fusebox) feeds a terminal at the back of the fuse box, this has a link wire back to the fusebox (5-36" long some are taped in loom, some are completely visible) to the fuse. Then it goes out from the fusebox (after the fuse) in the loom as a light green wire, and appears at a large (15way IIRC) multi-connector to hook up the dash.
I suspect mine is very similar - even has the driving lights in the loom??
What I was suggesting is make sure the 12v comes out of the fusebox, and at the dash connector plug. With the griff its possible that checking the fusebox is easier than getting at the dash connector plug - your call. When you see the back of the fusebox you'll see what I mean, spaghetti everywhere... The connector blocks on the back of the fusebox can be probed to test, dont think there are too many light green wires.
Dave
I suspect mine is very similar - even has the driving lights in the loom??
What I was suggesting is make sure the 12v comes out of the fusebox, and at the dash connector plug. With the griff its possible that checking the fusebox is easier than getting at the dash connector plug - your call. When you see the back of the fusebox you'll see what I mean, spaghetti everywhere... The connector blocks on the back of the fusebox can be probed to test, dont think there are too many light green wires.
Dave
rolfe said:
I have lost all power to the dashboard guages of my 92 4.3 except the clock, central locking button and hazards. Everything else works apart from the mirrors and the boot release. I have checked with a test guage each of the fuses (what a job - did it twice to make sure i hadnt missed one) but they are all ok. I think what caused the failure is that the boot release button stuck on (caught in the dashboard hole) but it was not that long till I spotted it. Only other thing I did was to disconnect the battery for a short time to reset the alarm. Does anyone know of any other fuses or ideas of what it could be?
I had the same problem (boot release button stuck behind dash). It burnt out the boot solenoid (not big issue, as new one is less than £15 and 30mins to fit), and blew the dashboard fuse, hence no instruments.
What is strange (and perhaps not coincidence) is that after this debacle, the alarm also finally gave up the ghost. It had been acting a bit odd for a while beforee, but now totally dead. On investigation at the local TVR dealers, it was found to be "well & truly cooked", having melted some wiring and multi-plugs into the bargain. After some delays in getting the new alarm (magically resolved after a stroppy phone call to the Factory) I hope to get the car back this w/e, after 3wks off the road and a bill of several hundred quid.
I hate electrical faults!
What a nightmare this turned out to be. It was definatly caused by the boot latch solenoid (got one from Maplin £6.99)We tried to remove the fuse box but it would not budge so we decided (mainly through cowardice)that we would work back from the dashboard to find the source wire. To cut a long story short this proved to be imposssible. We did find that they are all fed by a light green wire which powers the dash guages, electric windows and boot lock but from where we could not work out. The only solution that we could then come up with was to feed another switched power source into the green wire via an in line fuse and this cured the problems. Not an exact science but it has worked - Thanks to all that helped. ( Note to Ballistic - This seems quite a common fault is it worth a mention on your web site?)
The fusebox unbolts through the wheelarch. I assume you tried to remove the fusebox from the fibreglass (its additionally held in with cable ties) that particular fixing is designed for a cover which none of us have :-( It is easier anyway to undo the 1 or 2 bolts thru the wing and lift the whole lot out - loom will unfold well into the footwell, even outside the door....
As I said before the light green wire links from the fusebox connector block to the dash multiplug connector.
If the problem is at the back of the fusebox you can fix it (VWP even sell crimp connectors to fit in the fusebox block connectors). If it is a damaged cable - you will have to strip the loom tape to find the problem and then replace the cable / repair the damaged section. Well worth doing since if the cable has melted there may be peripheral damage to the rest of the loom which is bound to cause big headaches at some stage.
Dave
As I said before the light green wire links from the fusebox connector block to the dash multiplug connector.
If the problem is at the back of the fusebox you can fix it (VWP even sell crimp connectors to fit in the fusebox block connectors). If it is a damaged cable - you will have to strip the loom tape to find the problem and then replace the cable / repair the damaged section. Well worth doing since if the cable has melted there may be peripheral damage to the rest of the loom which is bound to cause big headaches at some stage.
Dave
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