Way to lessen exhaust smell in interior?
Discussion
Is there a way to lessen the smell of exhaust when driving my Griff? Is there a way to duct fresh air into the boot assuming the exhaust smell is getting back into the boot when cruising? Boot lid seal seems tight, and no other opening that would allow exhaust back into the car....????
Perhaps from the backlite rear registration plate area?
Doug
Perhaps from the backlite rear registration plate area?
Doug
I think the exhaust pipes need to be on the outer edge of the bodywork so the gases don't get buffered back into the cabin.
Only example I can give is an early series 1 jag xj had straight exhaust pipe outlets in a similar position on the rear as per a Griff but were later changed to the bent pipes to get the gases to the edge of the bodywork to solve that problem.
Only example I can give is an early series 1 jag xj had straight exhaust pipe outlets in a similar position on the rear as per a Griff but were later changed to the bent pipes to get the gases to the edge of the bodywork to solve that problem.
Have you checked your manifold gaskets? I had this problem with my MGB V8. Fumes in the cabin, Mainly at rest and slow speeds.
The actual exhaust fumes should clear the car adequately by design and are, after all, behind you. The manifold gaskets are in front of you, so any fumes will want to come past you.
The actual exhaust fumes should clear the car adequately by design and are, after all, behind you. The manifold gaskets are in front of you, so any fumes will want to come past you.
spikep said:
People say it comes through the boot seal. There was an old thread on here. The boot has 3 holes each side underneath. People have made a forward facing scoop to force air into the boot when moving, apparently this stops it.
This. Clivef designed and posted up a template for the scoops as mentioned above. Worked a treat on my griff but can't find Clive's post anymore. I a sure if you contact him by pm he would send you detailsThxs for the tips and template for the scoops. I'll look in the boot & underneath to see if the vents are there. I heard somewhere that the 2 holes in the rear vertical panel ( between the cockpit & boot) were put there to improve fresh airflow and demist functionality, but instead used often as rear speaker locations by owners? Would blocking them help to reduce exhaust smell? As a new Griff owner, this is a wonderful knowledge base!
Now can someone point me to a very basic forum to learn how to use the Rover Gauge cable that I just bought? The extensive 14cux "thread" here on Pistonheads ( 60 pages!!) is well over my current knowledge level of this tool.... but the possibilities are limitless!
Now can someone point me to a very basic forum to learn how to use the Rover Gauge cable that I just bought? The extensive 14cux "thread" here on Pistonheads ( 60 pages!!) is well over my current knowledge level of this tool.... but the possibilities are limitless!
Hi Doug
I had exactly the same problem and carried out the following which completely solved the problem - no fresh air scoops necessary!
1. Block off the fresh air grills in the rear parcel shelf
2. In the boot seal off the void between the top of the wheelarch and the rear wings - plywood and mastic worked fine
3. Repair / replace the flexi pipe in the exhaust - if you've got one
4. Replace the exhaust manifold gaskets with Remflex items. These have the benefit of not needing to be replace every 10 minutes and because they're thick and springy the manifold bolts don't come loose every 5 minutes
5.Seal the manifold to Y-Piece joints with silicone exhaust paste which stays flexible
Cheers Andy
I had exactly the same problem and carried out the following which completely solved the problem - no fresh air scoops necessary!
1. Block off the fresh air grills in the rear parcel shelf
2. In the boot seal off the void between the top of the wheelarch and the rear wings - plywood and mastic worked fine
3. Repair / replace the flexi pipe in the exhaust - if you've got one
4. Replace the exhaust manifold gaskets with Remflex items. These have the benefit of not needing to be replace every 10 minutes and because they're thick and springy the manifold bolts don't come loose every 5 minutes
5.Seal the manifold to Y-Piece joints with silicone exhaust paste which stays flexible
Cheers Andy
I used the following and its been excellent
Works out at £10 per tube
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RTV-Silicone-Permatex-Ul...
Works out at £10 per tube
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RTV-Silicone-Permatex-Ul...
Thxs Andy....I just ordered the thicker exhaust manifold gasket set and the high temp silicone gasket material...looks like the rear manifold bolts will be tough to get at! I'll also seal up the openings in the rear panel/ behind the speakers so no air can pass from the boot to the cabin, and seal off any other openings to cut off any airflow. All good tips!
Doug
Doug
andyy said:
I used the following and its been excellent
Works out at £10 per tube
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RTV-Silicone-Permatex-Ul...
Thanks for that.Works out at £10 per tube
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RTV-Silicone-Permatex-Ul...
The rear bolts are difficult to get at!
Ideally you need the exhaust system off and the starter motor to make life much easier although its probably possible without.
It also makes life easier if you buy a set of ARP manifold bolts.They are stainless and have a much smaller - 3/8 - head which gives much better spanner access - ACT sell them
Andy
Ideally you need the exhaust system off and the starter motor to make life much easier although its probably possible without.
It also makes life easier if you buy a set of ARP manifold bolts.They are stainless and have a much smaller - 3/8 - head which gives much better spanner access - ACT sell them
Andy
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