Diff mount query

[jesfirth]

I have a clonk from the rear and I am pretty sure the top rear mounts are loose where the mounting plate bolts into the diff. The bolt into the chassis is tight and the front mounts are tight. The drive shaft and prop bolts are tight so it's not them. The diff does not seem to have too much slack and its once 4000 mile since a rebuild. I have an access panel in the rear shelf but still cannot get to the Allen heads for the rear to mount. Does anyone have a way of getting at them without removing the diff?

[Steve_D]

Either a cut down allen key or a cut section of the key with a ring spanner.

Be careful cutting the key....if you get it too hot it will loose its hardness.

Steve

[carsy]

You could always do as Peter ( Phazed) did, albeit the tank has to come out.

[jesfirth]

Thanks gents will try the cut down Allen key. My whole rear parcel shelf is removable already(-:

[phazed 11.83]

carsy said:

You could always do as Peter ( Phazed) did, albeit the tank has to come out.

Good find Ian.

Just consider if you are doing them up with an Allen key that they should be done up to about 28 foot pound iirc which you will not do with an Allen key.

I tried the Allen key job and it loosened within a few days.

[jesfirth]

you reckon --- swap them to bolts then?

[phazed 11.83]

jesfirth said:

you reckon --- swap them to bolts then?

I used an Allen head socket with an extension and torque wrench .

[phazed 11.83]

Happy to lend you my two post lift if you ever want to venture this way.

[Steve_D]

jesfirth said:

you reckon --- swap them to bolts then?

Most high tensile hex head bolts or setscrews will be grade 8.8.

The cap head bolts in your diff will likely be 10.9 as a minimum and may even be 12.9.

So if you want to replace your cap heads with a standard hex head you should source some at 10.9 as a minimum.

Steve