hot air valve sticking in matrix?
Discussion
I think David means this ....
If it is, read on macduff..
Now bear with me because this is difficult to explain without the bit in front of us and a finger to point with. (SHPUB just went up in my estimation)
Looking at the top pic first.
Coming through the ali plate is the drive shaft of the motor (which is on the other side.)
The first thing to attach to the motor drive shaft is the metal lump (12o'clock above FOTANGOs 't') which only seems to be there to have the bolt attached to it. The bolt not only secures the metal lump to the motor drive shaft - a la grub screw - but is important because as the shaft turns, the bolt head connects with one of the micro switches and stops the motor driving. Alignment of this isn't critical providing the bolt hits the arms of the micro switches and makes the switch 'click'
Now the bottom picture
The slightly rusty looking bar attaches onto the metal lumps' shaft and locks into place using the grub screw, tightened by allen key. Attached to the other end of this bar, through the hole on the left is an ali rod which opens/closes the hot water valve (it attaches from the other side though).
The alignment of this rusty bar IS CRITICAL. It is this which determines when the valve is fully open or closed.
To align this, attach everything together but dont tighten the allen keyed grub screw.
Now operate the open/close and get the bolt to shut off the motor in either position, push the valve operating rod into the fully open (or closed) position to align the rusty bar and pinch the grub screw tight with the allen key. I fiddled with this for a while, opening and closing the valve, watching for fully open or closed and lining it all up manually until I was certain it was all in the right place.
BTW. if you look closely at the top picture of the metal lump you can see where we had to weld its shaft back into place after it sheared when one of the micro switches broke and allowed the motor to keep turning. Its worth looking out for this if you get to taking it all apart as it might be your problem.
The micro switches are 20p items from Maplin. I've got the code if you need it.
If it is, read on macduff..
Now bear with me because this is difficult to explain without the bit in front of us and a finger to point with. (SHPUB just went up in my estimation)
Looking at the top pic first.
Coming through the ali plate is the drive shaft of the motor (which is on the other side.)
The first thing to attach to the motor drive shaft is the metal lump (12o'clock above FOTANGOs 't') which only seems to be there to have the bolt attached to it. The bolt not only secures the metal lump to the motor drive shaft - a la grub screw - but is important because as the shaft turns, the bolt head connects with one of the micro switches and stops the motor driving. Alignment of this isn't critical providing the bolt hits the arms of the micro switches and makes the switch 'click'
Now the bottom picture
The slightly rusty looking bar attaches onto the metal lumps' shaft and locks into place using the grub screw, tightened by allen key. Attached to the other end of this bar, through the hole on the left is an ali rod which opens/closes the hot water valve (it attaches from the other side though).
The alignment of this rusty bar IS CRITICAL. It is this which determines when the valve is fully open or closed.
To align this, attach everything together but dont tighten the allen keyed grub screw.
Now operate the open/close and get the bolt to shut off the motor in either position, push the valve operating rod into the fully open (or closed) position to align the rusty bar and pinch the grub screw tight with the allen key. I fiddled with this for a while, opening and closing the valve, watching for fully open or closed and lining it all up manually until I was certain it was all in the right place.
BTW. if you look closely at the top picture of the metal lump you can see where we had to weld its shaft back into place after it sheared when one of the micro switches broke and allowed the motor to keep turning. Its worth looking out for this if you get to taking it all apart as it might be your problem.
The micro switches are 20p items from Maplin. I've got the code if you need it.
david beer said:
Upside down in the footwell, near the vent hose is the valve, or you can see it if you remove the glovebox. There is small grub screw on the valve, it is then tightened onto the motor spindle, guess it could of come loose.
Aha, found that but it isnt loose,Its actuall the up/down motor not the hot/cold as though before.
.
When I turn it to windscreen teh motor turns the bit of platsic(
) it turns to the microswitch at the top, thing is when it hits that the motor doesnt stop, it keeps turning until I turn the switch to down, of which it just stays where it is and doesnt come back down to the other microswitch. My guess is the top microswwitch may be faulty.. we investigate further when my back has unattached itself from my Shin
BB
Ok found the prob, for some reason the flap plastic flap that directs the air up or down is catching the back of the box its ,in cant see why that has suddenly started doing that and cant see what elsa i can do to stop except cutting a bit off it< only catches one end near what must be the heater matrix side(like a small rad)
BB
BB
david beer said:
If your heater housing is anything like mine, its made out of various bits of plastic glued together and i can quite understand how things might of changed/moved over time !
Yep, same here. I seem to remember you can get to the valve by removing the passenger footwell vent and sticking your arm in.
Ian A.
IPAddis said:
If your heater housing is anything like mine, its made out of various bits of plastic glued together and i can quite understand how things might of changed/moved over time !
Yep, same here. I seem to remember you can get to the valve by removing the passenger footwell vent and sticking your arm in.
Ian A.
you must have Childs arms
Managed to cut a bit of my Flap (oi
) so is moving up and down very smothly Now. Put the motor back on and it goes to up and stops at micro switch...
wont come back down though AAAAAARGGGGGGGGh On the motor that drives the Flap is a plastic circle witha metal ring on it with 3 wires to it and movable inner that fits on the back of the motor spinal/Drive... I guess this is what reverses the motor.
Have had a play and I cant get the motor to reverse to move the flap back down.
The motor is wired to both micro switches along with the black circlular things wires...
Anyone had experience of testing these or setting them up that may help.
APAddis/David, know exactly what you mean re the plastic box and glue.. If anyones experiencing low airflow it could be cos its escaping out teh many holes in the joins on this box.
BB
Ballistic Banana said:
Managed to cut a bit of my Flap (oi
Put the motor back on and it goes to up and stops at micro switch...
On the motor that drives the Flap is a plastic circle witha metal ring on it with 3 wires to it and movable inner that fits on the back of the motor spinal/Drive... I guess this is what reverses the motor.
Have had a play and I cant get the motor to reverse to move the flap back down.
The motor is wired to both micro switches along with the black circlular things wires...
Anyone had experience of testing these or setting them up that may help.
APAddis/David, know exactly what you mean re the plastic box and glue.. If anyones experiencing low airflow it could be cos its escaping out teh many holes in the joins on this box.
BB
Are you sure it's the Griff you're servicing and not a blow up doll by the sounds of all that, correct forum?????
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