Help - fuel tank problems
Discussion
Hello,
I've had my 92 pre cat Griff 400 of the road for a few years. In trying to get it back on the road it looks like the tank is blocked with sludge or the lines to the pump are. Is this a tank out job? If so how difficult would it be and do you just swill it around with clean fuel or is there more to it than this?
Any pointers would be great.
Thanks
I've had my 92 pre cat Griff 400 of the road for a few years. In trying to get it back on the road it looks like the tank is blocked with sludge or the lines to the pump are. Is this a tank out job? If so how difficult would it be and do you just swill it around with clean fuel or is there more to it than this?
Any pointers would be great.
Thanks
I would say it’s more likely the lines are perished and blocked than the tank has filled up with sludge. Start there. If the lines haven’t been changed recently, it’s not a bad thing to do.
Make sure you get something ethanol resistant. Everyone will say R9, but that is for high pressure injection piping. You won’t be able to get it for the larger size that a precat has from the tank to the pump. Try R6, or at least do a bit of research into R numbers and ethanol.
Taking the tank out isn’t a bad job. Only four bolts but you will have to disturb carpet in the boot and in the cabin under the rear screen.
My precat was off the road for 12 years, but when I inspected the tank there wasn’t any sludge inside. Keep in mind the suction isn’t right at the bottom so you would need two inches of sludge to cause a problem. There is a course gauze over the suction, but on mine there was no dirt or blockage.
What about the pump itself? Mine was corroded to the point of leaking externally. Out of interest I hacked the old pump apart and it wasn’t so good inside either!!
Make sure you get something ethanol resistant. Everyone will say R9, but that is for high pressure injection piping. You won’t be able to get it for the larger size that a precat has from the tank to the pump. Try R6, or at least do a bit of research into R numbers and ethanol.
Taking the tank out isn’t a bad job. Only four bolts but you will have to disturb carpet in the boot and in the cabin under the rear screen.
My precat was off the road for 12 years, but when I inspected the tank there wasn’t any sludge inside. Keep in mind the suction isn’t right at the bottom so you would need two inches of sludge to cause a problem. There is a course gauze over the suction, but on mine there was no dirt or blockage.
What about the pump itself? Mine was corroded to the point of leaking externally. Out of interest I hacked the old pump apart and it wasn’t so good inside either!!
That 4th thread from the bottom on page 2 might be of interest regarding a crushed fuel line.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Just waiting for a few bits to arrive including an in line filter tank to pump. BTW the hoses after the pump are 8 mm I/D and before (tank to pump) 12 mm if you are using the Bosche or equivalent pump - I have used SAE J30 R9 - 7.6 mm I/D hose on the pressured side - the amount needed is around 70 cm to go pump to filter, filter to the copper pipe.
Ignition on and no pump running sounds like electrical supply rather than sludge or pipe blockage.
Its odd that the pump starts up when connecting the battery. Although helpfully, that does show that the wires haven't broken and the B pillar connector is OK.
I would start by checking the relay.
Its odd that the pump starts up when connecting the battery. Although helpfully, that does show that the wires haven't broken and the B pillar connector is OK.
I would start by checking the relay.
Penelope Stopit said:
Water/short circuit in a relay, immobiliser or alarm system could cause the pump to run when connecting the battery
Does removing the fuel pump fuse stop the pump from running when connecting the battery?
I have an alarm/immobiliser system (Not the normal Meta) that momentarily allows the two circuits to connect when you connect the battery but it quickly goes into disable mode.Does removing the fuel pump fuse stop the pump from running when connecting the battery?
Steve
I've got a bit further along with this - I was mistaken about the fuel pump, it is not running up. It looks like the immobiliser is not responding (Gemini 1002) to just immobilises the fuel pump and fuel gauge from what I have read. It looks like a key fob synch issue possibly though I can't find any user info on the system.
TVRJones said:
I've got a bit further along with this - I was mistaken about the fuel pump, it is not running up. It looks like the immobiliser is not responding (Gemini 1002) to just immobilises the fuel pump and fuel gauge from what I have read. It looks like a key fob synch issue possibly though I can't find any user info on the system.
Try contacting Dave Fairclough at HF Solutions, Dave is very helpful and knowledgeable with TVR alarm systems.TVRJones said:
I've got a bit further along with this - I was mistaken about the fuel pump, it is not running up. It looks like the immobiliser is not responding (Gemini 1002) to just immobilises the fuel pump and fuel gauge from what I have read. It looks like a key fob synch issue possibly though I can't find any user info on the system.
Can you open and lock the car ? Yes I can. I've not had another try to sort this for a bit - just trying to understand exactly what the Gemini unit does. It looks like it is functioning properly i.e. doors working and alarm setting appears OK. My plan is to go back to first principles and fault find from the pump, to relay to ECU because I guess the fault must be somewhere there.
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