Switching Griff 500 to LHD headlamp optics
Discussion
Hey guys, you’re gonna see a lot of me on here now I’ve got my Griff and have begun sorting things on it so bear with me..
One major item is that I need to change my headlamp optics for our roads. I’m guessing these are 5.75” lenses so that’s no problem to source a nice H4 setup. What I understand to be a b
h is removing the pods from the coachwork. So just that I’m crystal clear on the matter, I remove the support bracket at the rear and carefully cut away the sealant around the perimeter of the pod, then it can be extracted, right?
Then, as far as replacing the actual headlamps themselves, I guess that’ll be self explanatory once the pods are out...although any tips are always appreciated.
As for what to seal it back up to the bodywork with, I saw in another thread Sikaflex was the preferred sealant to use. Not being sure if I can obtain this in the US, I presume it’s a clear (or black) flexible body sealant? I think Würth makes something similar called Euroseal gel which I reckon I’ll be able to use.
Thanks in advance.
Aaron
One major item is that I need to change my headlamp optics for our roads. I’m guessing these are 5.75” lenses so that’s no problem to source a nice H4 setup. What I understand to be a b
h is removing the pods from the coachwork. So just that I’m crystal clear on the matter, I remove the support bracket at the rear and carefully cut away the sealant around the perimeter of the pod, then it can be extracted, right? Then, as far as replacing the actual headlamps themselves, I guess that’ll be self explanatory once the pods are out...although any tips are always appreciated.
As for what to seal it back up to the bodywork with, I saw in another thread Sikaflex was the preferred sealant to use. Not being sure if I can obtain this in the US, I presume it’s a clear (or black) flexible body sealant? I think Würth makes something similar called Euroseal gel which I reckon I’ll be able to use.
Thanks in advance.
Aaron
Aaron,
First apply masking tape to the pod acrylic and also all round the paintwork.
I used a black marker to draw around the strap that supports the pod. That will help to get the position when refitting reasonably close. Then remove the strap support from the rear of the pod. Do not cut anything! Then simply push the pod down from the outside front of the pod. it will offer some resistance but it will move downwards into the inner wheel arch. Cut the sealer when you see a safe place of the stretched sealer. Another person reaching into the inner wheel arch to support the pod is worthwhile. when the pod is fully free you can maneuver the pod out towards the front of the car for removing. You then need to remove the old sealer from the inside of the pod aperture. BE CAREFULL!!! Use a sharp knife and,or, chisel and keep your fingers well away from danger and the blade well away from the paintwork. This is the most time consuming part of the job but vital to help with alignment when refitting. I used an automotive grade of black silicone sealer to hold the unit in place. Refit the support strap. Let this fully cure and then you can seal the outside. Practice on getting this smooth as it is obviously visible. Take your time, it is not race, and do not slip!!! I made an extra bracket to support the front of the pod to help with alignment on reassembly.
Best regards
Vince.
First apply masking tape to the pod acrylic and also all round the paintwork.
I used a black marker to draw around the strap that supports the pod. That will help to get the position when refitting reasonably close. Then remove the strap support from the rear of the pod. Do not cut anything! Then simply push the pod down from the outside front of the pod. it will offer some resistance but it will move downwards into the inner wheel arch. Cut the sealer when you see a safe place of the stretched sealer. Another person reaching into the inner wheel arch to support the pod is worthwhile. when the pod is fully free you can maneuver the pod out towards the front of the car for removing. You then need to remove the old sealer from the inside of the pod aperture. BE CAREFULL!!! Use a sharp knife and,or, chisel and keep your fingers well away from danger and the blade well away from the paintwork. This is the most time consuming part of the job but vital to help with alignment when refitting. I used an automotive grade of black silicone sealer to hold the unit in place. Refit the support strap. Let this fully cure and then you can seal the outside. Practice on getting this smooth as it is obviously visible. Take your time, it is not race, and do not slip!!! I made an extra bracket to support the front of the pod to help with alignment on reassembly.
Best regards
Vince.
bergxu said:
One major item is that I need to change my headlamp optics for our roads. I’m guessing these are 5.75” lenses so that’s no problem to source a nice H4 setup.
The lamps you mention are actually H1 as they are dipped beam only. The main beams are the lower lamps and are also H1.Aaron. The H1 light units are held in place by 3 nylon wing nuts on the outside of the pods. On the inside of the pods is a doughnut type disc that has three studs with springs for the beam adjustment via the wing nuts. The H1 unit is fitted to the doughnut by 3 captive springs that locate onto the front face of the lens. It is a simple arrangement and it should offer you no difficulty to take apart. The part that I called the 'doughnut'--I don't know the correct name--is as far as l know no longer available. I think it's a Cibie part. Mine was distorted but with a bit of packing I was able to allow for the distortion. While the pods are out it's a good time to unscrew the acrylic from the fiber-glass part of the pod and give it a clean.
Best regards Vince.
Best regards Vince.
Thanks Vince. Guess I’ll be in for a weekend’s worth of fun when I get around to the job 
Been trying to sort which sealant will be the best and I think it’ll be Würth Euroseal gel. It has a strong bond but remains flexible for future removal if needed.
Now to find the H1 LHD optics...
Aaron
Been trying to sort which sealant will be the best and I think it’ll be Würth Euroseal gel. It has a strong bond but remains flexible for future removal if needed.
Now to find the H1 LHD optics...
Aaron
Yes, all four light units take H1 single filament bulbs. H4 bulbs are twin filament and are used in the Chimaera.
Racetech TVR sell LHD units but seem very expensive. TVR Parts probably sell them although I couldn’t find them on their website.
In reality the dipped beams are so poor I doubt anyone would know which way they dipped.
I’m not sure if all H1 5 3/4” dipped beam light units have the same fixing to the bodywork so suggest you have a good look at what you’ve got before you do any ordering.
Good luck.
Racetech TVR sell LHD units but seem very expensive. TVR Parts probably sell them although I couldn’t find them on their website.
In reality the dipped beams are so poor I doubt anyone would know which way they dipped.
I’m not sure if all H1 5 3/4” dipped beam light units have the same fixing to the bodywork so suggest you have a good look at what you’ve got before you do any ordering.
Good luck.
Many thanks on that information Hedgehopper, appreciate you taking some time to investigate for me. Since we still have maybe another month or so of decent driving weather here (I’m in Ohio) I will put the project off until the winter time when the car is laid up but meanwhile, I’m sure there will be other jobs to sort out 
Aaron,
Yes, Hedgehopper is right. Racetech have LHD dip beam units on their website. Expensive at £95 each. I guess you would not be stung for VAT though!
I also noticed they have the mounting rings for the light units at £20.50 (that's what I called the doughnuts). Racetech also have the Main Beam units at £63 but yours are probably OK as they are not handed. You could look at bulb alternatives ie LED to improve the light output. I have fitted LED bulbs and so far I am pleased with them--I say so far, because I have not yet driven the car in the dark. They seem good at dusk! You might have problems with LED legality as in Europe many after market LED bulbs are not 'E' marked and if at the annual road-worthiness test the examiner is in a bad mood he could fail the car! I don't know about US lighting regulations.
Best regards
Vince
Yes, Hedgehopper is right. Racetech have LHD dip beam units on their website. Expensive at £95 each. I guess you would not be stung for VAT though!
I also noticed they have the mounting rings for the light units at £20.50 (that's what I called the doughnuts). Racetech also have the Main Beam units at £63 but yours are probably OK as they are not handed. You could look at bulb alternatives ie LED to improve the light output. I have fitted LED bulbs and so far I am pleased with them--I say so far, because I have not yet driven the car in the dark. They seem good at dusk! You might have problems with LED legality as in Europe many after market LED bulbs are not 'E' marked and if at the annual road-worthiness test the examiner is in a bad mood he could fail the car! I don't know about US lighting regulations.
Best regards
Vince
Thanks Vince. I shall have a gander at Racetech myself and see what all I’ll need to splash out on.
Yeah, the main beam optics will be fine. I have debated the LED conversion, especially for the rear lights on a few of my Triumphs as the original stuff is pretty dim by today’s standards, especially what with all of the distracted drivers nowadays. And Lord knows I don’t want to be rear-ended in my TR6!! I reckon that’ll mean curtains :O
Yeah, the main beam optics will be fine. I have debated the LED conversion, especially for the rear lights on a few of my Triumphs as the original stuff is pretty dim by today’s standards, especially what with all of the distracted drivers nowadays. And Lord knows I don’t want to be rear-ended in my TR6!! I reckon that’ll mean curtains :O
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