Rover Gauge - Anyone in the Sth East Have One ?
Discussion
Cut a long / aggro story short, I’ve just had some “ engine work “ done and the car will not idle, is running rough and is down on power, it’s un drivable.
I’m not happy, to say the least and am close to throwing in the towel and selling it after over ten years.
Any one in the Sth East have a Rover Gauge ?
I’m not happy, to say the least and am close to throwing in the towel and selling it after over ten years.
Any one in the Sth East have a Rover Gauge ?
Edited by neutral 3 on Thursday 11th June 16:48
You say the car is undriveable? You can download the software f.o.c but need the cable and a Windows laptop. I do have Rovergauge, I'm near Maidstone, but if you can't get the car here it may be easier to just buy the cable and install the software yourself? Always useful to have on a 14CUX-equipped car anyway! I think the cables are £35-ish?
CAPP0 said:
You say the car is undriveable? You can download the software f.o.c but need the cable and a Windows laptop. I do have Rovergauge, I'm near Maidstone, but if you can't get the car here it may be easier to just buy the cable and install the software yourself? Always useful to have on a 14CUX-equipped car anyway! I think the cables are £35-ish?
Yes, undrivable. It just will not idle. Lift off the throttle when moving and the engine dies and when it happens whilst turning out of a junction etc, it’s bloody lethal, as the steering goes. When it does sometimes idle, it sits @ almost 2,000 rpm. When driving along, if you change gear, the engine dies and as the clutch is released it fires again. I could f scream, a load more of my ££ hard earned, Totally wasted. neutral 3 said:
CAPP0 said:
You say the car is undriveable? You can download the software f.o.c but need the cable and a Windows laptop. I do have Rovergauge, I'm near Maidstone, but if you can't get the car here it may be easier to just buy the cable and install the software yourself? Always useful to have on a 14CUX-equipped car anyway! I think the cables are £35-ish?
Yes, undrivable. It just will not idle. Lift off the throttle when moving and the engine dies and when it happens whilst turning out of a junction etc, it’s bloody lethal, as the steering goes. When it does sometimes idle, it sits @ almost 2,000 rpm. When driving along, if you change gear, the engine dies and as the clutch is released it fires again. I could f scream, a load more of my ££ hard earned, Totally wasted. Have you checked the idle control valve/stepper motor? If that's not connected well, or properly, it could be the issue. From what I remember without physically checking, it's not impossible to fit the 4-pin plug to the motor in the incorrect orientation. Also the valve can stick which might also be the culprit.
I don't know what work you have had done but the other thing which is supposed to relate to idle issues is the speed sensor feed into the ECU. This also drives the ICV. On my Defender I don't have that connected and I'm not having any issues with idle, or lifting off, but some people have found that it's essential. I don't know what the TVR solution to that was, you can use the Range Rover sensor if the speedo is cable driven, or take a feed from the electronic sensor on the gearbox if the speedo is electronic. I guess this would only possibly apply if the 'box has been out or something else has been messed with in that area?
Where in "south east", I am 10 mile from Banbury any good.
Have everything to hook up and get data and knowledge to analyse what its telling us.
BUT it sounds more like you have either.....
1. an air leak on inlet side
2. dodgy sensor (Airflow meter (AFM) maybe)
3. ignition issues
1. Air Leak
Whilst the car is running at a steady rpm, get someone to squirt easystart around plenum area, if revs increase you have an air leak
2. AFM
Check signal voltage on start up, should quickly settle at 0.34v
3. ignition issues
Check exhaust temps at outlets from the heads.
4. Dodgy stepper motor
Remove it and clean & lubricate
I have some good known spares to cover all the usual suspects and glad to help if you can get here.
Have everything to hook up and get data and knowledge to analyse what its telling us.
BUT it sounds more like you have either.....
1. an air leak on inlet side
2. dodgy sensor (Airflow meter (AFM) maybe)
3. ignition issues
1. Air Leak
Whilst the car is running at a steady rpm, get someone to squirt easystart around plenum area, if revs increase you have an air leak
2. AFM
Check signal voltage on start up, should quickly settle at 0.34v
3. ignition issues
Check exhaust temps at outlets from the heads.
4. Dodgy stepper motor
Remove it and clean & lubricate
I have some good known spares to cover all the usual suspects and glad to help if you can get here.
Edited by blaze_away on Thursday 11th June 22:48
neutral 3 said:
Cut a long / aggro story short, I’ve just had some “ engine work “ done and the car will not idle, is running rough and is down on power, it’s un drivable.
I’m not happy, to say the least and am close to throwing in the towel and selling it after over ten years.
Any one in the Sth East have a Rover Gauge ?
Was the plenum area touched ? it could be something as simple as mixed up spark plug leads if its seriously down on power. The idle control system simply cant cope with an engine that is running badly, so will do all sorts of odd things. I’m not happy, to say the least and am close to throwing in the towel and selling it after over ten years.
Any one in the Sth East have a Rover Gauge ?
Edited by neutral 3 on Thursday 11th June 16:48
neutral 3 said:
Yes, undrivable. It just will not idle. Lift off the throttle when moving and the engine dies and when it happens whilst turning out of a junction etc, it’s bloody lethal, as the steering goes. When it does sometimes idle, it sits @ almost 2,000 rpm. When driving along, if you change gear, the engine dies and as the clutch is released it fires again. I could f scream, a load more of my ££ hard earned, Totally wasted.
If it's not right why have you paid whoever has worked on it? Presumably they have had the chance to rectify .. If you've exhausted that route then post your rovergauge info here when you have some and it might give a clue as to what's going on.
Full screen video is better than trawling through the logs. Chimpongas posted a link once to a screen capture software which captured video of what was appearing on your laptop screen which would be more useful that someone holding their phone at the screen on a bumpy road ..
Have you checked the basics though .. compressions, fuel pressure, timing etc etc
PM me if you want.
spitfire4v8 said:
neutral 3 said:
Yes, undrivable. It just will not idle. Lift off the throttle when moving and the engine dies and when it happens whilst turning out of a junction etc, it’s bloody lethal, as the steering goes. When it does sometimes idle, it sits @ almost 2,000 rpm. When driving along, if you change gear, the engine dies and as the clutch is released it fires again. I could f scream, a load more of my ££ hard earned, Totally wasted.
If it's not right why have you paid whoever has worked on it? Presumably they have had the chance to rectify .. If you've exhausted that route then post your rovergauge info here when you have some and it might give a clue as to what's going on.
Full screen video is better than trawling through the logs. Chimpongas posted a link once to a screen capture software which captured video of what was appearing on your laptop screen which would be more useful that someone holding their phone at the screen on a bumpy road ..
Have you checked the basics though .. compressions, fuel pressure, timing etc etc
PM me if you want.
For the screen capture software the OP just needs to download FlashBack Express, its free and works brilliantly, indeed in many cases I've found its way better to use FlashBack Express than the Canems ECU data logging system.
You can download FlashBack Express safely and completely free here....
https://www.flashbackrecorder.com/download-start-2...
Highly recommended
Thanks for all of the replies.
The stepper motor was replaced about 600 odd miles ago and it and it’s housing are clean.
Some years ago, the car boiled a few times, I noticed that it was using a little coolant, but it still had plenty of power. The car is “ tweaked “ and was very quick. Then over 3 years ago, I noticed that the exhaust “ note and tone “ had changed and that it was down on power. A compression test by myself and an elderly trusted mechanic, revealed the right bank centre pots were well down and the left bank centre pots as well.
So it was assumed that the head gaskets, had blown. That was well over 3 years ago.
It went up to the specialist late last year, they took the heads off and told me that “ all “ of the valve seats had receded and that the heads had been skimmed in the distant past and that they prob would not take another skim ( if they have been skimmed ( Tower View Race Services ) , then it was over 16 years and 40,000 plus, miles ago ) . He sent the heads off to “ a bloke who does them “ I’ve no idea how many valve seats were replaced / if any valves were replaced ( when I was a young apprentice mechanic, if valve seats were that worn, then the cyl head got new valves And seats ) or if they were skimmed.
When the car came back, I found “numerous “ things wrong. It’s very obvious that it’s been thrown back together on the quick. I’ve totally lost all faith in them and the excuses and they are miles away. I’m well over £2 grand down and the planned use of the car this summer is fd.
I could have had the heads off myself, but my knackered back means that after a couple of minutes of leaning into a Griffs engine bay and enough is enough.
My IT skills knowledge would fit on the back of a postage stamp, so I am going to have to farm the car out yet again, but who do you trust to do a good job.....
The stepper motor was replaced about 600 odd miles ago and it and it’s housing are clean.
Some years ago, the car boiled a few times, I noticed that it was using a little coolant, but it still had plenty of power. The car is “ tweaked “ and was very quick. Then over 3 years ago, I noticed that the exhaust “ note and tone “ had changed and that it was down on power. A compression test by myself and an elderly trusted mechanic, revealed the right bank centre pots were well down and the left bank centre pots as well.
So it was assumed that the head gaskets, had blown. That was well over 3 years ago.
It went up to the specialist late last year, they took the heads off and told me that “ all “ of the valve seats had receded and that the heads had been skimmed in the distant past and that they prob would not take another skim ( if they have been skimmed ( Tower View Race Services ) , then it was over 16 years and 40,000 plus, miles ago ) . He sent the heads off to “ a bloke who does them “ I’ve no idea how many valve seats were replaced / if any valves were replaced ( when I was a young apprentice mechanic, if valve seats were that worn, then the cyl head got new valves And seats ) or if they were skimmed.
When the car came back, I found “numerous “ things wrong. It’s very obvious that it’s been thrown back together on the quick. I’ve totally lost all faith in them and the excuses and they are miles away. I’m well over £2 grand down and the planned use of the car this summer is fd.
I could have had the heads off myself, but my knackered back means that after a couple of minutes of leaning into a Griffs engine bay and enough is enough.
My IT skills knowledge would fit on the back of a postage stamp, so I am going to have to farm the car out yet again, but who do you trust to do a good job.....
Edited by neutral 3 on Tuesday 16th June 11:46
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