griff ride height?
Discussion
Short answer - don't know.
Long answer - have read others refer to c. 150mm measured to outrigger behind front wheel and in front of rear wheel. Mine measures just under 130 mm at front and just over at rear. Can't say mine looks low compared to others and it handles pretty well. HTH.
Long answer - have read others refer to c. 150mm measured to outrigger behind front wheel and in front of rear wheel. Mine measures just under 130 mm at front and just over at rear. Can't say mine looks low compared to others and it handles pretty well. HTH.
Hi Mike.
general rule of thumb here but you really need to keep the rear roll centre higher than the front at all times, not too difficult on a TVR as the front wishbones end up inclined downwards to the chassis anyways and the rear wishbones are more or less parallel and generally slope up to the chassis at sensible ride heights.
aim to have the rear higher than the front with the car static .. obviously as you load the car up (people, fuel, luggage etc) the rear will drop but if you can keep the rear above the front then you'll have a downwards raking roll axis to the front which will help maintian a consistent handling balance (most other things being equal) through corners, especially if you like playing with the throttle and upsetting the fore-aft stance of the car.
My aim is to set the front so that it doesn't bottom out onto the spring assisters in anything but the most severe bumps/braking (use cable ties on the piston rod to determine the stroke being used on your test route), and then set the rear to be about 20mm higher than at static with you in the car / half tank fuel on 250 rear springs, 15mm on 300 springs and 10mm on 325 springs.
i gather you're just wanting to play a bit until you come in for playtime at the workshop?
general rule of thumb here but you really need to keep the rear roll centre higher than the front at all times, not too difficult on a TVR as the front wishbones end up inclined downwards to the chassis anyways and the rear wishbones are more or less parallel and generally slope up to the chassis at sensible ride heights.
aim to have the rear higher than the front with the car static .. obviously as you load the car up (people, fuel, luggage etc) the rear will drop but if you can keep the rear above the front then you'll have a downwards raking roll axis to the front which will help maintian a consistent handling balance (most other things being equal) through corners, especially if you like playing with the throttle and upsetting the fore-aft stance of the car.
My aim is to set the front so that it doesn't bottom out onto the spring assisters in anything but the most severe bumps/braking (use cable ties on the piston rod to determine the stroke being used on your test route), and then set the rear to be about 20mm higher than at static with you in the car / half tank fuel on 250 rear springs, 15mm on 300 springs and 10mm on 325 springs.
i gather you're just wanting to play a bit until you come in for playtime at the workshop?
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