Centre console removal - help needed
Centre console removal - help needed
Author
Discussion

FlipFlopGriff

Original Poster:

7,144 posts

276 months

Monday 1st August 2005
quotequote all
Removed the two screws behind the seats and can move it so far back and tilted up but need to get the handbrake out the way to get it to move any further. I need to clean up the earth bolts hidden under there somewhere (not seen them yet). Can't find nowt in the bible so is it a DIY job for an idiot like me and what do I need to do? Do I need to drop the exhaust? Also what effect does lifting it up have on the fan/heater switches, the window switches and the door opener levers and cable?
FFG

shpub

8,507 posts

301 months

Monday 1st August 2005
quotequote all
Slacken off the handbrake cable and raise to the vertical position. This allows the cover to be removed. p303. Earth point location is shown on page 235 bottom photo. Should be able to get to it without having to remove the cover completely.

>> Edited by shpub on Monday 1st August 13:54

GarryM

1,113 posts

312 months

Monday 1st August 2005
quotequote all
To slacken off the handbrake you need to find the adjuster. On mine I can reach it from the offside rear wheel. It is a plastic nut which you can turn by hand. HTH.

stringbag

291 posts

279 months

Monday 1st August 2005
quotequote all
Hi FFG, the handbrake adjuster can be a total b@&*^$d to get undone. It consists of two plastic locking nuts which you have to undo before slackening the cable. Undoing them caused me to loose most of the skin on my knuckles, as I was trying to do it through the wheel arch. I suggest you jack the car up as high as you can, buy some axle stands and crawl underneath. This I did to do the nuts back up, and emerged 2 minutes later feeling all smug and with no blood loss.

The handbrake can then be pulled into the vertical and the console gently wiggled out. Be careful where you out it as the door cables and mechs are attached to the console and you don't want to scratch anything with it.

Oh, and put the car into 2nd/4th too (gear knob gets in the way)

It might also be worth taking the window switches out first (before you take the console out), I can't remember if the window switch cable was particularly long. The ribbon cable to the heater panel is nice and long, so that should be ok.
(You can get the window switched out by putting your finger nails under them and pulling hard.)

Good luck

Stringbag

FlipFlopGriff

Original Poster:

7,144 posts

276 months

Monday 1st August 2005
quotequote all
Cheers guys.
I'd seen the pic showing the earth bolt locations and intended to clean them both while it was off. Thoiugh I would have to remove the handbrake from underneath the car but the adjsuter option sounds much easier.
Are they captive into the chassis? hence won't need to get a nut off from under the car.
The reason for this is the speedo is shagged. I have replaced the speedo and the sensor and still nowt. If this don't work then that's me knackered.
The temp guage is now reading 10 degrees lower intermittently so maybe the earth is the answer.
FFG

Ballistic Banana

14,706 posts

296 months

Monday 1st August 2005
quotequote all
I just unhooked the cable from a metal guide somewhere in behind the rear wheel towards the front inside of it,with the hanbrake off. A gentle lever got it out and all went slack. was enough to lift the handbrake all the way up. You can then slide the console up and out the way enough to get to them pesky earths
Have you checked the earth under the rad too? feel free to give me a call if you need to if i can help, mail me for my number


BB

Ps blinging boot stays are here and mine fitted

>> Edited by Ballistic Banana on Monday 1st August 15:50

FlipFlopGriff

Original Poster:

7,144 posts

276 months

Monday 1st August 2005
quotequote all
Cheers BB.
Earth under rad removed, cleaned, copperslipped, replaced and more copperslip sprayed onto it for good measure.
Another job for the weekend.
Since we've had the car back from respray the stay is brilliant even if it is a little bent.
If the new one is no good I'm sure someone will buy it off me.
FFG

RAW-SEWedge

970 posts

288 months

Monday 1st August 2005
quotequote all
Works on mine. Slacken the adjuster right off and take the roof panel out. Adjuster is near the front of the rear subframe, you can get at it by taking the OS rear wheel of. Make sure you put plenty of chocks under the wheels.

griffter

4,143 posts

284 months

Monday 1st August 2005
quotequote all
The centre console really needs to come right up and (backwards) over the hand brake handle and gear knob to expose the trans tunnel bolts. Yes, they are into captive nuts.

FlipFlopGriff

Original Poster:

7,144 posts

276 months

Tuesday 2nd August 2005
quotequote all
As they're captive how do they work loose?? How do they rust if they are inside the car?
Also, should I be doing anything else while it's off?

Dave, take the roof panel off? Is this to get the centre console out over the top or it gets a tad hot while you're doing the job?
FFG

raw-sewedge

970 posts

288 months

Tuesday 2nd August 2005
quotequote all
It's the only chance I've had to take the roof off over the last 6 weeks so I just made the most of it

griffter

4,143 posts

284 months

Tuesday 2nd August 2005
quotequote all
FlipFlopGriff said:
As they're captive how do they work loose?? How do they rust if they are inside the car?
Also, should I be doing anything else while it's off?

FFG


Well the nuts are captive, but the bolts aren't! I suspect it's a case of them not being done up very tight to begin with.

So many things earth through the RH bolt (the LH bolt earths the battery negative) that to be honest I don't think it's your problem. There'd be other symptoms as well stemming from the other earths. While the dash and console are out it's worth checking all the wiring / connectors hidden in there and checking all the ventilation pipes are connected up soundly.

stringbag

291 posts

279 months

Thursday 4th August 2005
quotequote all
You have to take the roof off because the centre console will not come out otherwise. It is quite long and up at 45 deg or so to get it out, so you'll just bash it on the roof/rear screen and swear a lot if it is still in.

FlipFlopGriff

Original Poster:

7,144 posts

276 months

Friday 5th August 2005
quotequote all
What do I do with the door release handles and cable. Does the cable disconnect easily? I can see there is a nyloc nut behind the handle.
I think I am OK with the other items now it is just the door handles/cable.
FFG

david beer

3,982 posts

296 months

Friday 5th August 2005
quotequote all
I think i would pop out the air vent, connect a new earth to the speedo case and see if it cures it, before going to all that hassle !

FlipFlopGriff

Original Poster:

7,144 posts

276 months

Friday 5th August 2005
quotequote all
David,
The temp guage is reading 80 then 90 then above 90 so I think it may be an earth. I'm going to clean the earths (I've done all the others) and see if that works. if not dash out again and replace the earth. I've got to remove the dash as the light isn't working on the speedo.
FFG

griffter

4,143 posts

284 months

Friday 5th August 2005
quotequote all
FlipFlopGriff said:
What do I do with the door release handles and cable. Does the cable disconnect easily? I can see there is a nyloc nut behind the handle.
I think I am OK with the other items now it is just the door handles/cable.
FFG


You don't need to disconnect them. Just lift the rear edge of the console up so the console's at about 45 degrees, and the front should lift back over the handbrake handle & gearlever. I think I ended up with the handbrake handle poking through the gearknob hole, and the front edge of the console behind the gearlever. The front edge should move back well past the earth bolts.