Immobiliser won't deactivate

[FarmerJo]

Hi,

I have had Griffith 500 (P reg) for several years now but not used it all over the last 9 months. Unfortunatly the battery went completely dead and now the immobilser appears to be on permenently.

I have since removed the battery and given it a full charge. I am able to operate the alarm system OK but now the tiny red LED on the steering column next to the ignition no longer illuminates.

I have checked all the visible fuses and column fuses, inertia switch, looked for broken connections etc and not found anything obvious.

Before I had this problem I was able to jump in the car and with the key in the ignition press the fob button once to bring on the fuel pump. Now the fuel pump does not start and engine will not crank. Its as if the immobiliser will not disarm.

I think the immobiliser is by META Systems and I have a single large button key fob. There is also a connector next to the red LED for a key but so far I have never had to use it. Trying to use it now has no effect. I did notice one night when it was quite dark that the LED is actually on but lit very dimly.

Is there any special procedure that I should follow in order to reactive the immobiliser system? Can I determine if it is powered up correctly? Are there any hidden fuses that may cause this fault? I do have a red plastic card that contains a 16-digit number, would this be to do with the alarm or immobilser?

I am at a total loss here after completely dismantling the interior of the car and any help would be appreciated.

Regards FarmerJo

[Big Al.]

Give Carl the Meta man a ring, he'll probably talk you through it over the phone.

www.tvruk.tv/

[Baldy67]

I had the same problem when i left my lights on and flattened the battery and someone suggested disconnecting the ECU on top of the battery, i did this reconnected it and left it alone for a bit to reset itself and had no problems since. i would try this before you pay for anyone to come and look at it.

[FarmerJo]

Thanks for the replies.

When you say ECU do you mean the box which is about 5 inches square and about 1.5 inches high (I think it is a Rover fuel injector controller or something like that) which has a large long connector fitted to it about 2.5 inches long with lots of connections in it?

If so should I disconnect and reconnect it whilst the battery is connected? How long did you leave yours unconnected for?

Or should I first disconnect the battery then disconnect the ECU and then reconnect the battery and leave the ECU disconnected for a while and then reconnect it while the battery is still connected?

Regards FarmerJo

[Baldy67]

I just disconnected mine for a couple of minutes while everything was turned off but the battery still connected.

[VEG]

My Immobiliser stuck on although the alarm turned on and off and all the electrics worked. Put it in gear and bump started the car without actually acheiving ignition and the immobiliser de-activated.

Have a go at this first and save some money.

[Frosty500]

Place you key in the ignition and turn to on. Whilst key in that postion Press fob button and hold for about 20 seconds and then release. This should override immobilers and then start

[M@H]

Baldy67 said:

I had the same problem when i left my lights on and flattened the battery and someone suggested disconnecting the ECU on top of the battery.

!? Surely they meant the Alarm ECU under the dash top. The engine ECU has nowt to do with the Alarm.

Cheers,
Matt

[Baldy67]

M@H said:

Baldy67 said: I had the same problem when i left my lights on and flattened the battery and someone suggested disconnecting the ECU on top of the battery. !? Surely they meant the Alarm ECU under the dash top. The engine ECU has nowt to do with the Alarm. Cheers, Matt

They told me it was the one on the battery. It worked for me though.

[FarmerJo]

Hi,

Well finally I have managed to get the car started. It turns out that the M36T immobilser box is not working and stopping the fuel pump and starter motor from operating.

I managed to bypass the immobiliser completely using three wire links in the connector that the M36T connects.

I now have an immobiliser box that needs to be tested and possibly changed for a new one.

Anyone know how to test them or where to get an M36T box on its own?

Regards FarmerJo

[crackedfinger]

FarmerJo said:

Hi, Well finally I have managed to get the car started. It turns out that the M36T immobilser box is not working and stopping the fuel pump and starter motor from operating. I managed to bypass the immobiliser completely using three wire links in the connector that the M36T connects. I now have an immobiliser box that needs to be tested and possibly changed for a new one. Anyone know how to test them or where to get an M36T box on its own? Regards FarmerJo

Make you think how good this would be at stopping a thief! Sounds too easy. I had a faulty immobaliser removed from a vauxhall within 2 mins by a auto electrician. That was a cat 1 too! (took him a min to choose the correct pliers)

[DaveM]

Crackedfinger said:

Make you think how good this would be at stopping a thief! Sounds too easy. I had a faulty immobaliser removed from a vauxhall within 2 mins by a auto electrician. That was a cat 1 too! (took him a min to choose the correct pliers)

When my old S2 broke down an AA man told me a wet finger across most immobolisers would work!!!

My 4.3 Griff immoboliser occasionally plays up. Recently (Sunday) it happened and I found that it seemed to have had something to do with the alarm system - when I re-alarmed the car and then de activated the alarm, the immoboliser was active again!! Wierd or what!

[M@H]

FarmerJo said:

Anyone know how to test them or where to get an M36T box on its own? Regards FarmerJo

I think I've got one in the garage.. will have a look later.

Cheers
Matt

[simon.b]

I don’t think you can just replace the immobiliser. If I’m correct the are coded to the alarm system and so it will need to be installed by a META specialist i.e. www.tvruk.tv

Cheers,

Simon.