Adjusting the heater valve in the footwell - help please
Discussion
I have just realligned my spine from laying in the passenger footwell. I cannot see the bloody mechanism anywhere. When I reach up and twist the heater control knob, I here the motor turning, but it sounds as though it is coming from above and behind (towards the front of the car) the battery.
I can't see that removing the glove box would provide better access and would be loathed to remove the battery.
I would appreciate any help as I am due to make a two hour drive this evening and would like to leave the flame proof suit at home if poss.
I can't see that removing the glove box would provide better access and would be loathed to remove the battery.
I would appreciate any help as I am due to make a two hour drive this evening and would like to leave the flame proof suit at home if poss.
Mkgriff,
From your description it sounds as though you are turning the bottom left knob of the four on your lower dash which moves a motorised flap wedged between the battery box and inner wing. You just have to pull the inner wing carpet back to see it and you don't need to remove the battery.
This knob/flap only dictates whether you are going to get outside air in the car (flap closed) or recirculated air (flap open).
Is this the control you are looking for or is it one of the two motorised control valves behind the glove box?
Paul
From your description it sounds as though you are turning the bottom left knob of the four on your lower dash which moves a motorised flap wedged between the battery box and inner wing. You just have to pull the inner wing carpet back to see it and you don't need to remove the battery.
This knob/flap only dictates whether you are going to get outside air in the car (flap closed) or recirculated air (flap open).
Is this the control you are looking for or is it one of the two motorised control valves behind the glove box?
Paul
Hi Paul,
I was upside down, but felt my way accross the panel carefully, to ensure that it was the heater temp control that I was playing with.
I want to check the set-up of the hot/cold valve (alighning the white dots that I have read about), but cannot find it.
TVR's are 'individual', so I am afraid that the location may vary between cars?
Is this a job that you have performed?
I was upside down, but felt my way accross the panel carefully, to ensure that it was the heater temp control that I was playing with.
I want to check the set-up of the hot/cold valve (alighning the white dots that I have read about), but cannot find it.
TVR's are 'individual', so I am afraid that the location may vary between cars?
Is this a job that you have performed?
Mkgriff,
The dash knob to control temperature is top left which controls the valve with the white marks - because you are in an unsighted position are you absolutely sure you are twiddling the top left knob and not the bottom left.
If you have got the correct one and can hear the motor then I would strongly recommend removing the glove box (it's only two screws)and that should give you a reasonably good view of the valve and the white marks. To see it is one thing - to adjust it another!
Paul
The dash knob to control temperature is top left which controls the valve with the white marks - because you are in an unsighted position are you absolutely sure you are twiddling the top left knob and not the bottom left.
If you have got the correct one and can hear the motor then I would strongly recommend removing the glove box (it's only two screws)and that should give you a reasonably good view of the valve and the white marks. To see it is one thing - to adjust it another!
Paul
I can help you with this if you like.I dont have any pictures,but directions arent too bad
.Your roughly aiming for where you would expect to find the back of the door hinge.Its a very straightforward job,and will only take you 5 mins-and its very worthwhile!contact me if you like,and i can guide you over the phone.Made a couple of people happy at the griff growl with this,they were surprised how easy it was!It makes a great difference to your comfort level whilst driving thats for sure
.Your roughly aiming for where you would expect to find the back of the door hinge.Its a very straightforward job,and will only take you 5 mins-and its very worthwhile!contact me if you like,and i can guide you over the phone.Made a couple of people happy at the griff growl with this,they were surprised how easy it was!It makes a great difference to your comfort level whilst driving thats for sureOK, there is a thread here...
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=192621&f=9&h=0
and another one here...
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=9&t=188347
and here's the picture Rich... 
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=192621&f=9&h=0
and another one here...
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=9&t=188347
and here's the picture
Rich... Thanks guys. I ran out of time on Friday, so had to endure the furnace over the whole w/e. Not so bad with roof off and windows down, but when it rained, I thought my shoes were going to melt.
I am going to have another look shortly (after removing the glovebox, for better access). Any problems and I will come back to you.
I am going to have another look shortly (after removing the glovebox, for better access). Any problems and I will come back to you.
Hi.
when my heater would not go cold or hot properly, i simply found that the valve had slipped, the valve was going from half open (on cold) to full open (half temp) and then when on full heat the valve was half closed.
on mine i found two tipx marks which should line up when the heater was full off (I think it was off not on).
the solution was sipmply to set the heater to the required full position then reset the valve position.
HTH
when my heater would not go cold or hot properly, i simply found that the valve had slipped, the valve was going from half open (on cold) to full open (half temp) and then when on full heat the valve was half closed.
on mine i found two tipx marks which should line up when the heater was full off (I think it was off not on).
the solution was sipmply to set the heater to the required full position then reset the valve position.
HTH
I took the valve out over the weekend to makes sure it was alligning properly and it appeared that aslong as the grub screw located in the flat part of the spindle that it was fine. Unfortunately I still get warm air coming through the vents with it closed off so I reckon the valve itself isn't stopping water passing through it. Looks like a new valve jobby.
Has anyone replaced the valve with a different kind as the one fitted looks a fit flimsy?
Has anyone replaced the valve with a different kind as the one fitted looks a fit flimsy?
Joolz,
When you took the valve out did much water drain out?
The reason I ask is I have a similar problem and may have to go a similar route,but I am not looking forward to it especially if water sprays everywhere during dismantling.
If the two white marks are aligned does this mean the valve is open and lets water through or closed and shuts the water off?
Cheers, Paul
When you took the valve out did much water drain out?
The reason I ask is I have a similar problem and may have to go a similar route,but I am not looking forward to it especially if water sprays everywhere during dismantling.
If the two white marks are aligned does this mean the valve is open and lets water through or closed and shuts the water off?
Cheers, Paul
Hi Paul,
You were right, I was fiddling with the recycle knob, rather than the temp control!
I have found the valve now, thanks. Taking the glovebox out offers a much better view, as does removing the air ducting. I cannot see these white marks though.
I would also like to remove the whole thing, but am afraid of being sprayed and also having to re-solder the connections.
Does anyone elses valve move, simply by you moving the wires that are connected? Mine does !!
You were right, I was fiddling with the recycle knob, rather than the temp control!
I have found the valve now, thanks. Taking the glovebox out offers a much better view, as does removing the air ducting. I cannot see these white marks though.
I would also like to remove the whole thing, but am afraid of being sprayed and also having to re-solder the connections.
Does anyone elses valve move, simply by you moving the wires that are connected? Mine does !!
Dutchone said:
Joolz,
When you took the valve out did much water drain out?
The reason I ask is I have a similar problem and may have to go a similar route,but I am not looking forward to it especially if water sprays everywhere during dismantling.
If the two white marks are aligned does this mean the valve is open and lets water through or closed and shuts the water off?
Cheers, Paul
Nope as I clamped the pipes closed(a G clamp with some small diam round wood wedged between the pipe and clamp). The upper one is bl00dy fiddly but I lost very little water, you can always plug the hose once the valve is off.
Mine didn't have the white dots on it hence the removal, the metal bar only fits on the valve spindle in one place so can't really rotate from where it's meant to be. I'd say that if the grub screw isn't slipping it'd be pretty hard for it to get out of position as the grub screw locates onto the flat bit of the metal spindle
I hope that makes sense?
Joolz,
Yep, that makes sense.
When I looked at the valve initially, it would turn through ninety degrees from open to shut under the power of the motor and controller but the white marks( I know yours didn't have any) did not quite line up when shut so I thought this explained why I was getting slight warmth through the suystem so I undid the grub screw and turned the valve mechanism until it was fully shut, but when I tightened the grub screw the boss/valve went back to its slightly open position.
Now you have explained the motor spindle has a flat on it I can understand why it wants to take up it's natural and original position.
Question: How do I introduce a very slight rotational adjustment to the valve to ensure it fully closes when driven by the motor?
Cheers, Paul
Yep, that makes sense.
When I looked at the valve initially, it would turn through ninety degrees from open to shut under the power of the motor and controller but the white marks( I know yours didn't have any) did not quite line up when shut so I thought this explained why I was getting slight warmth through the suystem so I undid the grub screw and turned the valve mechanism until it was fully shut, but when I tightened the grub screw the boss/valve went back to its slightly open position.
Now you have explained the motor spindle has a flat on it I can understand why it wants to take up it's natural and original position.
Question: How do I introduce a very slight rotational adjustment to the valve to ensure it fully closes when driven by the motor?
Cheers, Paul
Dutchone said:
Joolz,
Question: How do I introduce a very slight rotational adjustment to the valve to ensure it fully closes when driven by the motor?
Cheers, Paul
Do you know it's not closing? On mine the valve reaches the closed position and then travels a bit more ensuring it's shut off. With the valve out it wasn't difficult to blow air through it in the off position so it's no wonder I get still get warm air through.
Long ramble,sorry.
The adjustment should be with the variable resistor, you should not have to adjust the grub screw. The resistor is held with a small screw and once loose you can turn it a tad so the motor follows the new posistion, once matched, tighten screw. Be careful as the resistor has wire the size of jump leads(ok not quite) and will break the varaible "R"s legs. My valve will creep open while driving, as the dash warms up(the control box lives there)! So you start off with a cold setting and its starts to get warm.So if you have set cold, go for a drive, next time you get in, turn the ignition on but do not start engine, if you hear the motor whir(sp) its the same. Answer, have the motor power only connected when the switch is pushed, so it can not creep open.
The adjustment should be with the variable resistor, you should not have to adjust the grub screw. The resistor is held with a small screw and once loose you can turn it a tad so the motor follows the new posistion, once matched, tighten screw. Be careful as the resistor has wire the size of jump leads(ok not quite) and will break the varaible "R"s legs. My valve will creep open while driving, as the dash warms up(the control box lives there)! So you start off with a cold setting and its starts to get warm.So if you have set cold, go for a drive, next time you get in, turn the ignition on but do not start engine, if you hear the motor whir(sp) its the same. Answer, have the motor power only connected when the switch is pushed, so it can not creep open.
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