Hall Effect Throttle Position Sensor
Discussion
I was offered an Hall Effect throttle position sensor so decided to install one my 1996 Griffith. As the original TPS sensors are now obsolete and replacements are expensive it seemed a worthwhile project. While not being a direct replacement the installation was quite straightforward and being a non contact device promises a much longer life than the original carbon track TPS. No doubt it will outlast me!
Mike Phillips (Philpot on PH) may have small number for sale complete with the metalwork for the Rover V8 Plenum.
The installation here:
https://www.bertram-hill.com/hall--effect-tps.html
Mike Phillips (Philpot on PH) may have small number for sale complete with the metalwork for the Rover V8 Plenum.
The installation here:
https://www.bertram-hill.com/hall--effect-tps.html
Edited by Loubaruch on Tuesday 14th October 21:08
I bought one of these kits from Mike (phillpot), worked out the best way to assemble it, and finally fitted it today (it had stopped raining!)
The kit includes a couple of custom machined items, and a special order TPS, all put together in a very helpful bundle.
I had to provide my own wiring, soldering kit, I also used some crimp connectors, and a few pieces of heat shrink for the electrical build. It all fits neatly into the black box Mike included.
I also had to get hold of something to make a bracket up, as we worked out the best way to mount the box is on a plenum bolt - in the same way the coil is mounted - and an ideal material is stainless steel. So a small piece of stainless sheet (I ordered a finger plate for a door, spec'd to the smallest size they would offer at 25mm x 150mm), and some stainless nuts/bolts/washers. This usefully doubles as the earth connection. In my case I used a P clip to hold the capacitor, and the bolt runs through to the stainless bracket, so serves as an ideal clean earth.
The hardest thing to do is drill the holes in the sheet of stainless steel, it work hardens extremely quickly, so you need a lot of pressure to get it cutting, a repeating dose of cutting oil (or WD40), start small and go slowly (slow speed on the drill too). Bending it however is relatively easy with a vice.
Anyway, the instructions for what to do are on the Bertram Hill website, and Mike worked out the circuit diagram with me (his kit includes a diode to control the 12V input). I followed Mike's suggestion to take 12V off the coil, rather than from the injector wiring, as I could use a piggyback spade connector which is completely reversible should it be necessary - you can see it in one of the photos below.
I had a fibreglass sleeve for the wiring, but might still get some of the plastic conduit we have all over the engine bay to protect the wiring further.
All in all, thank you Mike, thank you Paul at Bertram Hill, and Alex Krug mentioned on Paul's website.
I'm chuffed to have fitted this - no performance difference from the original carbon track TPS, but I now have an item that won't wear out, and a solid spare in the boot.
The kit includes a couple of custom machined items, and a special order TPS, all put together in a very helpful bundle.
I had to provide my own wiring, soldering kit, I also used some crimp connectors, and a few pieces of heat shrink for the electrical build. It all fits neatly into the black box Mike included.
I also had to get hold of something to make a bracket up, as we worked out the best way to mount the box is on a plenum bolt - in the same way the coil is mounted - and an ideal material is stainless steel. So a small piece of stainless sheet (I ordered a finger plate for a door, spec'd to the smallest size they would offer at 25mm x 150mm), and some stainless nuts/bolts/washers. This usefully doubles as the earth connection. In my case I used a P clip to hold the capacitor, and the bolt runs through to the stainless bracket, so serves as an ideal clean earth.
The hardest thing to do is drill the holes in the sheet of stainless steel, it work hardens extremely quickly, so you need a lot of pressure to get it cutting, a repeating dose of cutting oil (or WD40), start small and go slowly (slow speed on the drill too). Bending it however is relatively easy with a vice.
Anyway, the instructions for what to do are on the Bertram Hill website, and Mike worked out the circuit diagram with me (his kit includes a diode to control the 12V input). I followed Mike's suggestion to take 12V off the coil, rather than from the injector wiring, as I could use a piggyback spade connector which is completely reversible should it be necessary - you can see it in one of the photos below.
I had a fibreglass sleeve for the wiring, but might still get some of the plastic conduit we have all over the engine bay to protect the wiring further.
All in all, thank you Mike, thank you Paul at Bertram Hill, and Alex Krug mentioned on Paul's website.
I'm chuffed to have fitted this - no performance difference from the original carbon track TPS, but I now have an item that won't wear out, and a solid spare in the boot.
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