Front Lights and Fairing
Discussion
Has anyone actually tried driving the Griffith without the fairing on and seeing if this makes any difference with the poor front lights.I have upgrded ones and have no probs with my lights.
I know the wiring can be changed so each lamp has its own power and the bulbs uprated, but was wondering if the fairing made any difference at all?
BB
ramble over
I know the wiring can be changed so each lamp has its own power and the bulbs uprated, but was wondering if the fairing made any difference at all?
BB
ramble over
Ballistic Banana said:
Has anyone actually tried driving the Griffith without the fairing on and seeing if this makes any difference with the poor front lights.I have upgrded ones and have no probs with my lights.
I know the wiring can be changed so each lamp has its own power and the bulbs uprated, but was wondering if the fairing made any difference at all?
BB
ramble over
Assuming firstly the clear covers - I would suspect due to the internal refraction within the Perspex thickness and reflection on the inner surface there would be wasted light not transmitted through the cover so in theory yes running with out would be brighter.. however in practice I would suspect that you wouldn't notice difference. Smoked cover on the other hand which may only have say a 5% tint (that's a guess) would lower the light output by 5% also (also a guess) come to think of it I have no idea what I'm talking about... I think these lamps are compatible BMW E30 3 series lights?? cos they use what known as a 'lost light reflector' to improve the efficiency that little smiley rectangle at the bottom of the lamp..
in short NO doubt it!!
griffsmith said:
Assuming firstly the clear covers - I would suspect due to the internal refraction within the Perspex thickness and reflection on the inner surface there would be wasted light not transmitted through the cover so in theory yes running with out would be brighter.. however in practice I would suspect that you wouldn't notice difference. Smoked cover on the other hand which may only have say a 5% tint (that's a guess) would lower the light output by 5% also (also a guess) come to think of it I have no idea what I'm talking about... I think these lamps are compatible BMW E30 3 series lights?? cos they use what known as a 'lost light reflector' to improve the efficiency that little smiley rectangle at the bottom of the lamp..
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in short NO doubt it!!
Next time, try to give a more indepth and informed opinion and answer please, Griffsmith.
Thanks.
One thing will reduce the light penetration of the perspex covers faster than anything and that is road film/salt residue etc. Keep em clean and a bit of RainX helps.
Rich - following on from another thread today - 100W bulbs are illegal for road use and generate 50% more heat than standard bulbs so may compromise your wiring. By the way, I really am not trying to get on your case today!
Rich - following on from another thread today - 100W bulbs are illegal for road use and generate 50% more heat than standard bulbs so may compromise your wiring. By the way, I really am not trying to get on your case today!

97octane said:If you have a look through the demon tweeks catalogue,there are a number of high output bulbs that don't draw any more current than a 55w would.Some of these have a 100w output i think,some also have a long life etc.Theres quite a selection really,theyre not cheap though.My local motorfactors sell 'ring' brand ones with 50% more output for £16 or so(per pair).Anybody tried any of these high output bulbs?
Rich - following on from another thread today - 100W bulbs are illegal for road use and generate 50% more heat than standard bulbs so may compromise your wiring.
Often wondered most cars that have pods, the inner part surrounding the light is nearly always reflective, were as we are all paint co-ordinated, just wondering how people get on with say a silver griff, maybe it would be an option to have the inner part of the pod sprayed in a reflective silver to stop the disspersion of the light through the perspex
(NOT SURE IT WOULD LOOK TO NICE DOE)
martin
(NOT SURE IT WOULD LOOK TO NICE DOE)
martin
mongoose said:
97octane said:If you have a look through the demon tweeks catalogue,there are a number of high output bulbs that don't draw any more current than a 55w would.Some of these have a 100w output i think,some also have a long life etc.Theres quite a selection really,theyre not cheap though.My local motorfactors sell 'ring' brand ones with 50% more output for £16 or so(per pair).Anybody tried any of these high output bulbs?
Rich - following on from another thread today - 100W bulbs are illegal for road use and generate 50% more heat than standard bulbs so may compromise your wiring.
.Mark did a review of them in his Chim for Sprint last year - compared 100w bulbs with Philips Vision Plus (50% more light) and laser blue-type thingies. Conclusion was that illegal 100W were best but Vision Plus (and presumably their equivalent from Osram/Ring etc) were the best of the legal ones, a significant improvement over standard bulbs and the blue ones were no better, possibly worse, than standard. I must say that £18 for a new set of bulbs seems like a cheap/value for money upgrade to me. His full review is copied in the bulb thread on TVRCC
By rewiring the drivers side only, you gain the equivalent of 100w on full beam, thats 4 x 25w, then pop in the 50 % brighter bulbs and thats the best you are going to get. The near-side wiring just does the near-side supply and turning on the relays for the drivers side, taking the new supply from the starter. Many have done it.
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what's the beef with the light output anyway?? I've been in worse cars! I'm doing my bit against pollution 'Light Pollution' ..