COOLING FAN PROBLEM<,REALLY APPRECIATE HELP!!!!!!!
Discussion
Hi all, before I start yes I have done a search for previous threads but to no avail . My Griff 500 got really hot n bothered last week. Went to 100 degs + and it was clear the fans did not kick in. Got home checked the 40 amp fuse - all fine. Restarted car and 1 fan started to turn but it kinda stuttered around about 1 third of a revolution then stops for a fraction of a second and repeats and so on. It looked like the power supply to it was being cut intermittently. My questions are as follows.
1. To check the non working fan can I unplug the white connector that’s about 12inches from the cowl and put 12v to it.
2. Assuming its buggered can I rebuild it (brushes and bearings)
3. If it is a write off how much is a new one (is there a non TVR equivalent)
4. Re the erratic fan what sends the message to it that it’s needed (Otter??)
Something that may be of relevance is that that there is a ticking/tapping sound coming from the battery area. Its not the manifold and the only way I can describe it is like random morse code or a current arcing (maybe its the voices in my head again) when this occurs which is usually 10 mins into a journey the ammeter flicks around. I have unfurled the “floating harness” above the battery and the sound is not from that, it sounds to be nearer the fuse box area. The battery terminals are covered
Any suggestions gratefully received
1. To check the non working fan can I unplug the white connector that’s about 12inches from the cowl and put 12v to it.
2. Assuming its buggered can I rebuild it (brushes and bearings)
3. If it is a write off how much is a new one (is there a non TVR equivalent)
4. Re the erratic fan what sends the message to it that it’s needed (Otter??)
Something that may be of relevance is that that there is a ticking/tapping sound coming from the battery area. Its not the manifold and the only way I can describe it is like random morse code or a current arcing (maybe its the voices in my head again) when this occurs which is usually 10 mins into a journey the ammeter flicks around. I have unfurled the “floating harness” above the battery and the sound is not from that, it sounds to be nearer the fuse box area. The battery terminals are covered
Any suggestions gratefully received
Good chance it maybe the otter switch as it seems to be a common failing,quite easy to change,its found on the side of the swirl tank
Thants the aluminium tank with the blue cap on,its toward the bottom
Take both wires off and connect them together if the fans run ok then the otter is shot!
Good luck
Thants the aluminium tank with the blue cap on,its toward the bottom
Take both wires off and connect them together if the fans run ok then the otter is shot!
Good luck

Just been going through problems with my fans too, one was running very slow and the other was jamming up, I stripped the one that had jammed and it turn out the be the magnet had actually broken and that’s what caused it to jam, so decided to replace both fans as even putting a connection straight from the battery the other fans was still very slow, mine were originally Cerbera fans which cost about £120 +vat each from the TVR dealer. I did notice that Europa car parts were selling Spal fans for about half that but wasn’t sure which one would be correct. I ended up going for an alloy rad and 2 fans second-hand which came from the twin turbo Griff.
>> Edited by Paul V on Thursday 2nd March 16:52
>> Edited by Paul V on Thursday 2nd March 16:52
b19 rus said:The relay that switches your fans on.Its located on the fuseboard,behind the battery.You'll have to look in your handbook to find out which one it is,as they changed location during production,and i have a later car which wont have the same set up,sorry.
Hello Mongoose, Which relay would this be? What does it do and where is it at?
b19 rus said:If you still have a single fuse and relay set up,that was std when new,then you are looking for a std 5 pin twin outlet(not changeover type) relay.These are easily available from most motorfactors and only cost a few pounds.But as i said,its best to make sure you buy a quality brand,wherever you get it from.
Brilliant, really appreciated. I finish at 1pm 2moro so ill try a new one. Are they all the same (configuration of pins) and is it a maindealer supplied or a motor factor thing?
Same as Mike check that Relay and I would also check the push connectors near the fan as these can brake down and corrode due to getting loads of water chucked at them when its raining. tip is look in the engine bay with the lights out when the fans are about to kick in and see if them connectors are clicking (may be the sound you can hear/or the relay).
BB
BB
I have bypassed the otter and the fan works continuously so there progress there. I have swapped the fan connectors round and the other fan does work so that ok. So Q`s remaining-
* Why is the live feed to 1 fan not working? I will check this connector for power at the harness side of the white connector
* Do they both come off the harness at the same point?
* As an interim can I scotch bloc off the feeds that do work so I have 2 fans?
IHAVE also changed the relay
>> Edited by b19 rus on Friday 3rd March 16:57
* Why is the live feed to 1 fan not working? I will check this connector for power at the harness side of the white connector
* Do they both come off the harness at the same point?
* As an interim can I scotch bloc off the feeds that do work so I have 2 fans?
IHAVE also changed the relay
>> Edited by b19 rus on Friday 3rd March 16:57
I had a similar problem last year, I spent ages checking through everything etc etc...
it turned out the one of the leads going to the battery had come loose.....re-connected and fans were then working, its worth a couple of minutes checking round the battery even just for process of elimination.
it turned out the one of the leads going to the battery had come loose.....re-connected and fans were then working, its worth a couple of minutes checking round the battery even just for process of elimination.
purple helmut said:
I had a similar problem last year, I spent ages checking through everything etc etc...
it turned out the one of the leads going to the battery had come loose.....re-connected and fans were then working, its worth a couple of minutes checking round the battery even just for process of elimination.
Sounds like someone had rewired yours, sensible if you have the single fuse/relay set up. The fans only take 20 amps but the surge can take out 40 amp fuses !
I seem to be having similar problems. After trying all of the above, I have concluded that with ignition on and otter switch bypassed, there is no current from the live feed to the fans. Fuse and relay seem ok.(You can hear the relay clicking when the otter switch is bypassed). Any suggestions? I have heard that there is some merit in converting to a twin fuse/relay set up. Would this cure the problem? Is there a DIY kit for this? Thanks in advance.
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