Dash template anyone?
Discussion
stesrg said:
I have got a precat on cad or I could photo copy and fax you and you could pice it togEther
Ste .
Sterg,thanks very much,however I dont have a fax,if you could print it off and post it I would be more than happy to furnish you with a few beer tokens
Will email you my details a.m if thats ok with you?
brightside said:
Like this.....
http://ph.uncle-dave.co.uk/upload/ima
brightside
Hi BS,looks the muts nuts mate,is that the stick on stuff or solid carbon sheet?
brightside said:
It's the sticky backed, cost about £20 plus 3 hours. 
more pictures available.
BS
mmmm looks a little complex when you see it like that BS Guess that if you take your time and label all connections it goes OK?
Any particular hints/tips for a succesfull job?
>> Edited by llanelli-rob on Thursday 16th March 07:57
but with silver dials and silver light display and levern buttons 
however a tip from me never try to re veneer the dash yourself 
You learn by your mistakes 
but it was fun doing it ... Don't ask 
llanelli-rob said:
[quote=brightside]
Any particular hints/tips for a succesfull job?
The standard way in which the precat instruments are held to the dash is ridiculous (IMHO). The screw-on brackets on the back of the instruments do not pull the bezels up against the dash, with the bezels then sitting proud of the dash. Rather, the instrument bezels are pulled up against little metal angle brackets which are glued to the rear of the dash. This is fine until the adhesive fails (it need only fail on one brakcet), then your guages start going on holiday behind the dash, and rattling around hanging by the loom.
To over come this, when I fitted my Leven dash, I glued a suitably cut length of pvc plumbing pipe to the rear of each instrument location. This sticks much better than the angle brackets, because there's more of it to stick - so more glue can be used. In fact I 'sealed' the joint around its circumference with sikaflex in case the glue (araldite) should ever fail. Anyway, the pipe then gives a circular 'pod' into which each guage will fit. To make the fit snug, and to hold the guage in place, I wrapped a single thickness of draught excluder round the guage body. An additional advantage is that the guages can be removed from the front of the dash without having to remove the dash itself - eg to access wiring or replace a bulb.
I didn't use the same technique for the speedo and tacho as the dash curves around these, so gluing a section of pipe would be tricky. I did however use additional angle brakets left from the smaller guages, to fit these instruments securely.
griffter said:
[quote=brightside]
Any particular hints/tips for a succesfull job?
little metal angle brackets which are glued to the rear of the dash. This is fine until the adhesive fails
.
Hmm
I welded mine 
BUT do not try this when the veneer is attached
but I advise to weld its much stronger than glue 
If you are going down the carbon route or other . Just a thought
Ste .
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