Is it my cam? advice appreciated!
Discussion
Finally had my precat 4.3 back from the local indie garage after having various jobs done.......
Waxoil..24k service....etc etc etc
However as yesterday was the first time I've driven it I notice that at town driving speeds she is very jerky!!?? Welly it and PHEW its bloody quick!
Past records show it had a new cam fitted,cam was supplied by TVR power and the details are ...........
Part no..EO440
Description..TVR435RM 11-93-2 @116 cam
Should the car behave like this with this cam?
Or should I start changing things like leads cap etc?
Any advice appreciated.
Thanks.
Waxoil..24k service....etc etc etc
However as yesterday was the first time I've driven it I notice that at town driving speeds she is very jerky!!?? Welly it and PHEW its bloody quick!
Past records show it had a new cam fitted,cam was supplied by TVR power and the details are ...........
Part no..EO440
Description..TVR435RM 11-93-2 @116 cam
Should the car behave like this with this cam?
Or should I start changing things like leads cap etc?
Any advice appreciated.
Thanks.
Thought that was a bit 
till I re read it.
Even so, bought in August and only driven yesterday?!!! Patient man! Wouldnt know myself, but it sounds like how people describe the behaviour of high lift cams, but I would check everything anyway, using the wiggle test
>> Edited by shadowfax on Friday 14th April 08:30
till I re read it. Even so, bought in August and only driven yesterday?!!! Patient man! Wouldnt know myself, but it sounds like how people describe the behaviour of high lift cams, but I would check everything anyway, using the wiggle test
>> Edited by shadowfax on Friday 14th April 08:30
if you've not had a tvr roverv8 car before, it will feel very jerky in town. particularly on choke after a lay-off of several months.
go to a local meet, and ride in another. you'll almost certainly feel its the same. TADTS!
transmission shunt is a known "aspect" of the big V8s at this tune, 500s are worse!
spending loads of money can reduce this but is not really necessary, and using higher revs/gears goes the same for free!!! under 2200rpm will be very noticeable. if anything, clean the injectors (use a quality cleaner mix from hellfrauds) or you can have them cleaned by a tuner for around £300.
i'd spend a few miles warming it up and getting used to it before spending any dosh.
its not an MX5 ya know
have fun!
andy
tvrmonster
go to a local meet, and ride in another. you'll almost certainly feel its the same. TADTS!
transmission shunt is a known "aspect" of the big V8s at this tune, 500s are worse!
spending loads of money can reduce this but is not really necessary, and using higher revs/gears goes the same for free!!! under 2200rpm will be very noticeable. if anything, clean the injectors (use a quality cleaner mix from hellfrauds) or you can have them cleaned by a tuner for around £300.
i'd spend a few miles warming it up and getting used to it before spending any dosh.
its not an MX5 ya know
have fun!
andy
tvrmonster
Hi Rob,
How jerky is jerky??? I used to think mine was jerky and then I fitted a green tune resistor (which yours will have anyway being a pre-cat - but thats another story) and adapted my driving style. I now never let the revs go below 2K so end up driving in town in 2nd and it is fine. If you are going near to 1K revs then I suggest you change, you will soon get used to it and I believe it is a 'feature' of the muscle V8!!
Hope this helps,
Lig.
How jerky is jerky??? I used to think mine was jerky and then I fitted a green tune resistor (which yours will have anyway being a pre-cat - but thats another story) and adapted my driving style. I now never let the revs go below 2K so end up driving in town in 2nd and it is fine. If you are going near to 1K revs then I suggest you change, you will soon get used to it and I believe it is a 'feature' of the muscle V8!!
Hope this helps,
Lig.
Hi Rob, that is a standard 500 cam, the 500's are jerky at low speeds and with yours being a smaller engine it will probably be worse, disconnect the vacum advance pipe this will allow aprox 700 rpm less before the shunting apears and just check your dizzy is fine and not advancing too much at low rpm
Contrary to what you may be told they do not all shunt at low revs. The V8s pulled smoothly from tick over in any gear as did my 98 Griff 500 until it had a new cam fitted after which it was quite unpleasant to drive. I understand that it is not just the cam profile that is that cause, it is also how well the cam timing has been set.
Part of the pleasure of driving the Griff ( before it went to a “tuner” was the ability to burble along in the city and then make it sound and go like a race car on the open road.
Part of the pleasure of driving the Griff ( before it went to a “tuner”
was the ability to burble along in the city and then make it sound and go like a race car on the open road. "clean the injectors (use a quality cleaner mix}"
...but be careful.
When I used Cataclean, I wasnt assertive enough in shoving the bottle into the epiglottal opener of the fuel inlet, and it leaked onto the paintwork. I wiped it off, but it ruined the paint in the collection area at the lower area of the channel under the boot lid, just above where the 'Griffith500' badge sits. And that was in heavy rain. Cant see it unless you open the lid, mind.
As for the unevenness, there is no intractability in Bluey with his standard cam at low revs, even down to starting from second. But it mskes sense to follow the advice of "Dont labour the engine", no matter what the car.
>> Edited by shadowfax on Saturday 15th April 00:46
...but be careful.
When I used Cataclean, I wasnt assertive enough in shoving the bottle into the epiglottal opener of the fuel inlet, and it leaked onto the paintwork. I wiped it off, but it ruined the paint in the collection area at the lower area of the channel under the boot lid, just above where the 'Griffith500' badge sits. And that was in heavy rain. Cant see it unless you open the lid, mind.
As for the unevenness, there is no intractability in Bluey with his standard cam at low revs, even down to starting from second. But it mskes sense to follow the advice of "Dont labour the engine", no matter what the car.
>> Edited by shadowfax on Saturday 15th April 00:46
Grifter...............
In all fairness to Ron he didnt road test the car,so he was and is unaware of the problem!
It is quite bad and to quote the mrs "it shakes your bones" oh and "theres no fuc***g way I'm ever going in that thing with you again if you insist on driving like that"
Unable to get leads cap and arm locally so will order next wk and see what improvements if any happen.
Keep you posted.
Thanks.
Rob
In all fairness to Ron he didnt road test the car,so he was and is unaware of the problem!
It is quite bad and to quote the mrs "it shakes your bones" oh and "theres no fuc***g way I'm ever going in that thing with you again if you insist on driving like that"
Unable to get leads cap and arm locally so will order next wk and see what improvements if any happen.
Keep you posted.
Thanks.
Rob
apache said:
PS...........ref injector cleaner,will the proprietory brands that Halfrauds sell do the job?
Personally I don't rate em, get em cleaned and balanced properly
££££££££££££££££££££
????????????????????
>> Edited by llanelli-rob on Saturday 15th April 10:01
llanelli-rob said:
PS...........ref injector cleaner,will the proprietory brands that Halfrauds sell do the job?
Personally I don't rate em, get em cleaned and balanced properly
££££££££££££££££££££
????????????????????
>> Edited by llanelli-rob on Saturday 15th April 10:01
no, no, more like
£££
???
llanelli-rob said:
PS...........ref injector cleaner,will the proprietory brands that Halfrauds sell do the job?
The trade rate Forte - available from ebay. Make sure you get the injector cleaner, not the petrol treatment.
When I used it the car started coughing and spluttering like mad, then cleared. I presume some serious crap was shifted!
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