Cheaper Oil at last......
Cheaper Oil at last......
Author
Discussion

simon.b

Original Poster:

1,230 posts

311 months

Monday 19th June 2006
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I went into Halfords yesterday to pick some Mobil 1 15w50 Motorsport Oil for top ups and found a new product on the shelf.

Halfords own brand Fully Synthetic 5w50 Motorsport Oil and the best bit is it cost less than £26 for a 5 litre can: Result.

Cheers,

Simon.

pupp

12,948 posts

301 months

Tuesday 20th June 2006
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Going to 'bump' this back to the top as I'm interested on views... likely quality etc

FlipFlopGriff

7,144 posts

276 months

Tuesday 20th June 2006
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Generally in life you get what you pay for.
I wouldn't use it but that's me.
FFG

jeffsy

5,603 posts

256 months

Tuesday 20th June 2006
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...might be worth a conversation with the boys at Opie to se what they think (may be some bias in their reply but still worth it)....

scoule

299 posts

313 months

Tuesday 20th June 2006
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A few years back, the Halfords synthetic cans were filled with Esso Synthetic ... I don't know whether that is still the case.

ray_von

3,038 posts

281 months

Tuesday 20th June 2006
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simon.b said:
Halfords own brand Fully Synthetic 5w50 Motorsport Oil and the best bit is it cost less than £26 for a 5 litre can

I suppose its better than the £49 for 25 litres that someone suggested buying off E Bay

simon.b

Original Poster:

1,230 posts

311 months

Wednesday 21st June 2006
quotequote all
I must admit to being a bit sceptical myself but…..

Halfords don’t make the stuff, it will be bought to a specification and despite the usual ridicule in my experience Halfords gear is usually quite good, so I’m inclined to believe the spec. I also change my oil every 3,000 miles which even if it doesn’t maintain properties as long as Mobil 1 it should last long enough for me.

Cheers,

Simon.

gingerprince

571 posts

270 months

Wednesday 21st June 2006
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People still use fully synthetic in the RV8? I thought it was pretty common knowledge now that fully synthetic oils are too thin for this engine and a good quality 10w40 semi-synthetic was better.

LastLawyer

135 posts

264 months

Wednesday 21st June 2006
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Drive 0-W40 full synthetic on/in my Griff after an engine renewal (but without crankshaft and its bearings cause they were still absolutely fine). Car works fine, kills also the new Boxter S and the oil pressure is allways correct. when the engine gets very very hot the oil pressure gauge starts "fiddling". but that´s (in my opinion) a griff 4.3s problem and therefore not worth to think about it.

A Griff 4.3 is simply underconstructed and has several potential problems with overheating of some of its components.

Regards

Jerko



IPAddis

2,524 posts

313 months

Thursday 22nd June 2006
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gingerprince said:
People still use fully synthetic in the RV8? I thought it was pretty common knowledge now that fully synthetic oils are too thin for this engine and a good quality 10w40 semi-synthetic was better.


There's never been any suggestion to my knowledge that fully synthetic is the problem. Only the 0W-40 grade recommended in the handbook (standard Mobil 1). 10W-50 fully synthetic is easily available.

Ian A.

simon.b

Original Poster:

1,230 posts

311 months

Thursday 22nd June 2006
quotequote all
This debate goes on and on and perhaps I shouldn’t have started this one on here, but…

It’s my understanding that the viscosity of an oil has nothing to do with being synthetic or not. It’s that Synthetic oils tend to be able to withstand harsher environments for longer before braking down.

The viscosity of an oil is as stated in the numbers. The low number associated with the W i.e. 10W denotes Winter and indicates a measure of suitability in cold conditions. The second number i.e. 40 represents the viscosity at elevated temperatures, the higher the number the thicker the oil.

So therefore 5W/50 is thicker at high temp and flows better at lower temp that 10W/40.

Cheers,

Simon.

anonymous-user

83 months

Thursday 22nd June 2006
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I would be a bit wary too - I'm sure the guys in service used to say something about making sure the letters at the end match as well for some reason (SH? something or other - may be wrong)

LastLawyer

135 posts

264 months

Thursday 22nd June 2006
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Simon.B is right. the perfect oil so would be 0W 50 or even 0W 60 (which you can buy f.e. for motorbikes). Due to the fact that even the newest BMW and Porsche Engines drive 0W 40 (and there is nothing better you can buy at german Gassing Stations, except Oil for Motorcycles) i personally think that even the good old Rover-Engine should do a good work with 0W 40.

But - probably also an important fact - my engine tickers when it gets hot. But no oil-changement was able to stop that. so i don´t think that the oil is the matter. will know that after bringing my griff to one of the best german tunining companies. an am very interessted how much more power is available for the 4.3 engine simply through chip-improvement. probably there could be an even better improvement than the tornado-chip. letz see...