Discussion
Sorry to have to tell you it IS a dash out job matey.
All the switches and clocks etc are attached to glued on brackets.
I'll have my dash out in the next couple of days to reglue the bolts holding the bar which has the MIR bulbs and light switches on, so I'll photograph those switches for you if you want.
Found a previous photo AJ.
The switches I think you are talking about are the ones next to the clock - which is the gap in the dash on this photo, and you can clearly see how they attach.
All the switches and clocks etc are attached to glued on brackets.
I'll have my dash out in the next couple of days to reglue the bolts holding the bar which has the MIR bulbs and light switches on, so I'll photograph those switches for you if you want.
Found a previous photo AJ.
The switches I think you are talking about are the ones next to the clock - which is the gap in the dash on this photo, and you can clearly see how they attach.
Edited by barreti on Sunday 25th June 16:34
As Barreti says it is dash out - but it's not that difficult, just take your time.
When you re-glue, it's worth being thorough (to get as good adhesion as possible).
Undo the nuts holding the switch bracket on to the studs (it's the studs which are glued rather than the bracket itself).
Clean all old glue off dash and studs. Score the dash with sand paper where the glue will go.
Glue each switch bracket mounting stud seperately (mark positions first with pencil) using epoxy resin (ie araldite).
When you're re-mounting the switch bracket, don't overtighten the nuts - they'll just put the glue under tension. If possible get or make some suitable rubber washers to mount between the nut/washer and the switch bracket. I used cut-down silicon vacuum tube. This softens the pre-load and reduces the tension on the stud and glue whilst holding everyting together.
Oh and welcome to TVR build 'quality'. Anyone else would spot weld the studs on - but where's the fun in that?
When you re-glue, it's worth being thorough (to get as good adhesion as possible).
Undo the nuts holding the switch bracket on to the studs (it's the studs which are glued rather than the bracket itself).
Clean all old glue off dash and studs. Score the dash with sand paper where the glue will go.
Glue each switch bracket mounting stud seperately (mark positions first with pencil) using epoxy resin (ie araldite).
When you're re-mounting the switch bracket, don't overtighten the nuts - they'll just put the glue under tension. If possible get or make some suitable rubber washers to mount between the nut/washer and the switch bracket. I used cut-down silicon vacuum tube. This softens the pre-load and reduces the tension on the stud and glue whilst holding everyting together.
Oh and welcome to TVR build 'quality'. Anyone else would spot weld the studs on - but where's the fun in that?
My dash is out so here is your picture as promised AJ. You can see what look like bolts glued on at each end of the bar holding the switches and light. They aren't actually bolts, more like thread with a piece of plate instead of the bolt head, so you may need to fish around in the dash to find the one which has come off.
I've used araldite to stick mine back on, and while I was in there tonight I gave everything another dosing just in case.
Oh, it took about half an hour to drop the steering, take off the steering wheel, remove the stereo and pull the dash out. Just read the noddy guide in the bible and it all comes out relatively easily.
Good luck.
Ian

I've used araldite to stick mine back on, and while I was in there tonight I gave everything another dosing just in case.
Oh, it took about half an hour to drop the steering, take off the steering wheel, remove the stereo and pull the dash out. Just read the noddy guide in the bible and it all comes out relatively easily.
Good luck.
Ian

Gassing Station | Griffith | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff



