URGENT HELP PLEASE - PRE GROWL GRIFF PROBLEM!!

[lone granger]

Ignition, warning lights, instruments & fuel pump came on ok - went to crank and lost the lot!

Battery ok - all other systems operational

I cant believe the immobiliser would knock out the instruments? - What else is common to all and likely to fail during turning key? - Had nacelle apart wires secure - one white and red crushed but seems ok

moment before had used +5v terminal on coil to test a single side lamp (own live removed) - cant see how that could upset things

HEPL URGENT HELP PLEASE MOT PM TOMORROW AND GROWL ON SAT AND SHE IS STILL 3 FOOT IN THE AIR MINUS WHEELS...

[rev-erend]

My money is on a loose battery connection or the battery to startmotor connection.

Good luck ..

Also check the battery voltage with a meter .. you should see 12.3 volts plus..

If you are seeing less that 12 then you have either a dead battery or a duff alternator.

Edited by rev-erend on Tuesday 1st August 22:31

[GRFNUT]

There's a couple of different fuse board layouts depending on the model/year, but all have an ignition feed relay, ignition and ecu fuse's. have you checked these?

what model is your car? do you have no electrics at all.

[Seasider]

rev-erend said:

My money is on a loose battery connection or the battery to startmotor connection.

Good luck ..

I'm sh!te with sparks.... sorry

But what rev said or any chassis earth & clean the 100amp contacts

[lone granger]

rev-erend said:

My money is on a loose battery connection or the battery to startmotor connection.

Good luck ..

Also check the battery voltage with a meter .. you should see 12.3 volts plus..

If you are seeing less that 12 then you have either a dead battery or a duff alternator.

Edited by rev-erend on Tuesday 1st August 22:31

Nope - battery fully charged - headlights can maintain main beam no probs

[lone granger]

GRFNUT said:

There's a couple of different fuse board layouts depending on the model/year, but all have an ignition feed relay, ignition and ecu fuse's. have you checked these?

what model is your car? do you have no electrics at all.

ECU and ignition fuses seem intact - car is early 4.3 pre-cat J reg 92 and doesnt follow the manual that most people use - mine has a fuel pump relay second from left at bottom

The thing is all these systems went when trying to crank, including instruments (Instr lights ok) - didnt even hear solenoid and car is up on stands in a quiet garage

Makes you think it is something like: immobiliser, relay, fuse, impact switch to wipe this lot out - should impact switch be up or down? - ive tried both but obviously want to leave it the right way! - tried discon bat a couple of times as immobilisers are funny on these, however red light clears correctly withh triple hazard flash so think immobilser might be ok..

[Seasider]

lone granger said:

should impact switch be up or down?

Down on a later car..

Edited by Seasider on Tuesday 1st August 22:50

[GRFNUT]

according to the bible, your fuse layout is on the bottom of page 240.

your ignition feeds relay is second in from the right top row, type rflk30.

can you tell if this relay picks up?

could be swapped with main beam relay (same type) first on right bottom row.

you might have checked this but it's worth a shot.

[barreti]

The fusebox layout for your car is in the bible - or at least there is one with the fuel pump relay in the position you say yours is. Bottom layout on P240.

[lone granger]

barreti said:

The fusebox layout for your car is in the bible - or at least there is one with the fuel pump relay in the position you say yours is. Bottom layout on P240.

manual out in barn is 'bible' the spiral bound one by Steve i think?

[barreti]

Yep, that's the one.
If you need any info out of it now David let me know. Mine's here on the desk being studied!

Edited by barreti on Tuesday 1st August 23:12

[GRFNUT]

barreti said:

Yep, that's the one.
If you need any info out of it now David let me know. Mine's here on the desk being studied!

Edited by barreti on Tuesday 1st August 23:12

I bet you thought nobody saw you change his name?

[barreti]

[barreti]

I've had a look through other posts David and apart from noticing that hardly anybody ever seems to bother to complete a thread and post up the eventual outcome, one of the things someone pointed to was the Ignition Relay.

Relays in that lower fusebox have a habit of wanting to go walkabout, so try reseating the second from right/top row relay.

[lone granger]

barreti said:

I've had a look through other posts David and apart from noticing that hardly anybody ever seems to bother to complete a thread and post up the eventual outcome, one of the things someone pointed to was the Ignition Relay.

Relays in that lower fusebox have a habit of wanting to go walkabout, so try reseating the second from right/top row relay.

even have hole fuse box sitting in passenger footwell - all relays firmly seated - no relay action now on turning key to any position..

[lone granger]

TVR have swanned off on hols for a fortnight and MOT is 3 today - still in air, no wheels or feed to o/s side light + not run for over a year -- Growl looking a little optimistic now....

[jester7]

I had exactly the same problem with mine last week. I can only assume it was a dodgy connection in the fuse box as after i removed the relay and fuse and cleaned the connections including the battery terminals it was/is fine, but ill run through the advice that was given to me!! Check the two main fuses one by the stater motor on the chassis the other in the main loom by the battery. the ignition fuse is the yellow 20amp on the far right as you look at it the relay is black second from right (on my car next to a bigger yellow relay). The main ignition feed should be direct straight to the ignition from the relay and fuse with no breaks. if you take the shroud off and look at the back of the switch you will see three wires one white, white and red and red. The red is the main igntion feed, white red to the starter and the white to the coil, to confirm the problem run a wire direct from the battery to the back of the red wire, turn the key if you get dash lights etc then your problem lies either in the wire the relay or fuse. As i say i took everything out cleaned it and it was fine. Hope that helps!!

[Griffter]

lone granger said:

moment before had used +5v terminal on coil to test a single side lamp (own live removed) - cant see how that could upset things

Always look to the last thing you did. The resistance of a bulb is (I'm guessing) lower than the resistance of the primary coil winding. If so, you essentially shorted the coil supply. Seeing as this is switched by the ignition switch, it is essentialy common to the instruments. Whether they share the same fuse I doubt, but if you shorted the coil supply you may effectively short the instrument supply. I think you need to pull and check each fuse to be sure you've covered the instruments fuse - nevermind what the fuseboard layout says. Also check the dedicated alarm/immobiliser fuses which will be loose in the loom behind the dash somewhere. You may have shorted those. You could also try a battery disconnect/reconnect to reset the alarm/immobiliser & ecu - but I doubt that'll help much.

IIRC the instruments are fed by a red wire from the loom where it emerges from the passenger footwell and then runs along the bulkhead behind the dash. You may have to take the dash off if the fuses check out and you need to investigate wiring.

Don't go to bed until you've sorted this one - we need all the precats possible at the Growl!

[lone granger]

Griffter said:

lone granger said:

moment before had used +5v terminal on coil to test a single side lamp (own live removed) - cant see how that could upset things

Always look to the last thing you did. The resistance of a bulb is (I'm guessing) lower than the resistance of the primary coil winding. If so, you essentially shorted the coil supply. Seeing as this is switched by the ignition switch, it is essentialy common to the instruments. Whether they share the same fuse I doubt, but if you shorted the coil supply you may effectively short the instrument supply. I think you need to pull and check each fuse to be sure you've covered the instruments fuse - nevermind what the fuseboard layout says. Also check the dedicated alarm/immobiliser fuses which will be loose in the loom behind the dash somewhere. You may have shorted those. You could also try a battery disconnect/reconnect to reset the alarm/immobiliser & ecu - but I doubt that'll help much.

IIRC the instruments are fed by a red wire from the loom where it emerges from the passenger footwell and then runs along the bulkhead behind the dash. You may have to take the dash off if the fuses check out and you need to investigate wiring.

Don't go to bed until you've sorted this one - we need all the precats possible at the Growl!

still on it - MOT put back to Friday (car not used last 18 mths, so risky in itself)

Clearly it is simply ignition and starter circuits that are down (fuel and instruments would come from ignition) - maybe a main feed to barrel lock from live? - dash out again............

any more ideas chaps??

[jester7]

The red wire going into the back of the ignition is the main feed, check see if you have 12v with the ignition switch on, if not pull the ignition fuse out and check for 12v there