Meta Immobiliser problem - help needed right now if poss.
Discussion
Griff 500 (1997) wouldn't start after work so I'm still here waiting for the AA (they've been once and now need to send a different vehicle to get me home - grrr).
Anyway, I need some advice on how to fix this, if I can do it before they turn up even better.
Battery and general electrics are fine. Lock/unlock/alarm fine. No fuel pump or starter motor when I try to start. Most tellingly, the red light that is normally illuminated where the immobliser key goes (the slot next to the ignition key), is now never on either. The alarm light on the console near the window switch does flicker on and off when the alarm is armed.
TVR Centre reckon it is the immobiliser, after some quick diagnostics over the phone.
AA man who was fairly clued up to be fair found that the immobiliser fuse looked overheated, if not actually blown, so replaced it. Still no joy. Disconnected battery for a few seconds, on reconnection alarm sounded (a bit of a strange tone though), cancelled the alarm with the key fob but still no joy in starting.
I've searched the forums, found useful tips and have checked relays etc. as best I can but still no joy.
If anyone has any bright ideas they would be very welcome, especially as I'm booked into Don Hastie's epic at Silverstone on Sunday and won't be able to go if I can't get it working.
PS Since I had it serviced last week the horn has stopped working as well, only noticed that today when I tried to use it. Not sure if that is relevant.
Thanks in advance
gooner
Anyway, I need some advice on how to fix this, if I can do it before they turn up even better.
Battery and general electrics are fine. Lock/unlock/alarm fine. No fuel pump or starter motor when I try to start. Most tellingly, the red light that is normally illuminated where the immobliser key goes (the slot next to the ignition key), is now never on either. The alarm light on the console near the window switch does flicker on and off when the alarm is armed.
TVR Centre reckon it is the immobiliser, after some quick diagnostics over the phone.
AA man who was fairly clued up to be fair found that the immobiliser fuse looked overheated, if not actually blown, so replaced it. Still no joy. Disconnected battery for a few seconds, on reconnection alarm sounded (a bit of a strange tone though), cancelled the alarm with the key fob but still no joy in starting.
I've searched the forums, found useful tips and have checked relays etc. as best I can but still no joy.
If anyone has any bright ideas they would be very welcome, especially as I'm booked into Don Hastie's epic at Silverstone on Sunday and won't be able to go if I can't get it working.
PS Since I had it serviced last week the horn has stopped working as well, only noticed that today when I tried to use it. Not sure if that is relevant.
Thanks in advance
gooner
Edited by gooner on Thursday 10th August 19:58
Gooner i had a similar problem on my car which turned out to be a short on the main dash feed, as the alarm had been fitted incorrectly (took two years for the fault to occur after fitment!!) Have to say yours sounds alarm related, try speaking to Carl Baker i spoke to him about my problem he was/is exstremely helpful. www.tvruk.tv/
Thanks both, will take up both offers of help during today. I really appreciate the quick responses.
Finally got recovered about 9pm. At least the AA guy was pretty pro TVR so took great care loading the Griff onto the truck and I didn't have to put up with any 'they always break down' comments.
gooner
Finally got recovered about 9pm. At least the AA guy was pretty pro TVR so took great care loading the Griff onto the truck and I didn't have to put up with any 'they always break down' comments.
gooner
Sorry if this is too late,
But I’ve had this quite often happen after working on the car as the battery gets low or momentarily disconnected, then immobiliser and possibly the ECU seem to get into conflict. This may not be technically correct but it’s the best explanation I have can come up with.
To correct the problem I disconnect the battery and waited 5 minutes, this seamed to reset every thing, if needed I’d hook up the jump leads again and start her up. You mentioned the sounder making odd noises, this could also be a contribution (I’m now on my third sounder). Disconnect this also but make sure the alarm is off before doing so and don’t reconnect until all is running again.
I’ve had to do this a few times now, yesterday the latest after replacing the rear hood. Since the doors were open for a good few days radio on etc. the battery was a bit low. When I tried to start her up all I got was the dreaded stepper motor rattle. So out came the jump leads, this time no fuel pump, oil and the ignition lights looked wrong and sure enough, dead. At first I checked the immobiliser had not kicked in but this just set the alarm which then went off. So switched every thing off sequenced the alarm to make sure it was not armed and disconnected the battery. Upon reconnection (with jump leads) she started up fine, this time. So we went for run to Helmsley and Pickering to test the new roof.
Good luck,
Simon.
But I’ve had this quite often happen after working on the car as the battery gets low or momentarily disconnected, then immobiliser and possibly the ECU seem to get into conflict. This may not be technically correct but it’s the best explanation I have can come up with.
To correct the problem I disconnect the battery and waited 5 minutes, this seamed to reset every thing, if needed I’d hook up the jump leads again and start her up. You mentioned the sounder making odd noises, this could also be a contribution (I’m now on my third sounder). Disconnect this also but make sure the alarm is off before doing so and don’t reconnect until all is running again.
I’ve had to do this a few times now, yesterday the latest after replacing the rear hood. Since the doors were open for a good few days radio on etc. the battery was a bit low. When I tried to start her up all I got was the dreaded stepper motor rattle. So out came the jump leads, this time no fuel pump, oil and the ignition lights looked wrong and sure enough, dead. At first I checked the immobiliser had not kicked in but this just set the alarm which then went off. So switched every thing off sequenced the alarm to make sure it was not armed and disconnected the battery. Upon reconnection (with jump leads) she started up fine, this time. So we went for run to Helmsley and Pickering to test the new roof.
Good luck,
Simon.
All tips welcome, thanks.
I went out to try out some the sound advice and of course the bugger started perfectly first time.
I think I'll leave well alone until I can speak to Carl about getting it fixed properly, he doesn't seem to be available today. I will give further updates so that anyone else with a similar problem can find it in the future. If anyone else has good advice then please keep it coming.
One thing I forgot to mention is that I fitted the Mod wise hot start kit a few months ago. It's worked perfectly and I don't think it can be the problem because it shouldn't affect the fuel pump and the immobiliser light even if it failed.
gooner
I went out to try out some the sound advice and of course the bugger started perfectly first time.
I think I'll leave well alone until I can speak to Carl about getting it fixed properly, he doesn't seem to be available today. I will give further updates so that anyone else with a similar problem can find it in the future. If anyone else has good advice then please keep it coming.
One thing I forgot to mention is that I fitted the Mod wise hot start kit a few months ago. It's worked perfectly and I don't think it can be the problem because it shouldn't affect the fuel pump and the immobiliser light even if it failed.
gooner
Latest update. There is still an intermittent problem but I am now 95% sure of the problem, having talked to several people including Lee at the TVR Centre and Carl at tvruk.tv who clearly knows their onions. Everything points to a failure of the actual immobiliser itself, so I'm booking it in with Carl to have it replaced.
For anyone else searching on this problem, the key symptoms are that the immobiliser light on the ignition barrel doesn't come on at all when there is a failure and the light by the window switch flashes really fast after disarming.
I won't be 100% certain until it is fixed, will post a final update then.
Thanks all for your help - can't wait to be back on the road
gooner
For anyone else searching on this problem, the key symptoms are that the immobiliser light on the ignition barrel doesn't come on at all when there is a failure and the light by the window switch flashes really fast after disarming.
I won't be 100% certain until it is fixed, will post a final update then.
Thanks all for your help - can't wait to be back on the road
gooner
gooner said:
All tips welcome, thanks.
I went out to try out some the sound advice and of course the bugger started perfectly first time.
I think I'll leave well alone until I can speak to Carl about getting it fixed properly, he doesn't seem to be available today. I will give further updates so that anyone else with a similar problem can find it in the future. If anyone else has good advice then please keep it coming.
One thing I forgot to mention is that I fitted the Mod wise hot start kit a few months ago. It's worked perfectly and I don't think it can be the problem because it shouldn't affect the fuel pump and the immobiliser light even if it failed.
gooner
I went out to try out some the sound advice and of course the bugger started perfectly first time.
I think I'll leave well alone until I can speak to Carl about getting it fixed properly, he doesn't seem to be available today. I will give further updates so that anyone else with a similar problem can find it in the future. If anyone else has good advice then please keep it coming.
One thing I forgot to mention is that I fitted the Mod wise hot start kit a few months ago. It's worked perfectly and I don't think it can be the problem because it shouldn't affect the fuel pump and the immobiliser light even if it failed.
gooner
Gooner
Try the 20A fuse down in the hot start kit - should find it down in the passenger footwell. I had this and had the same problem. 10p fix.
FFG
Thanks for all the advice. It is now fixed
In the end Carl Baker www.tvruk.tv came and replaced the immobiliser unit which as it turns out was the source of the problem.
Big
for Carl, not only did he do a tremendous job but endured a 3 hour crawl round the M25 when I couldn't start the car in the morning (guess why) which he deserved every penny for. And he's as nice a bloke as everyone else says. 2 new fobs, reset alarm as well, let's hope that's the end of it.
I hope I never have to post on this topic again but maybe it will help the next person who's wondering why the hell their P&J won't start.
gooner
In the end Carl Baker www.tvruk.tv came and replaced the immobiliser unit which as it turns out was the source of the problem.
Big
for Carl, not only did he do a tremendous job but endured a 3 hour crawl round the M25 when I couldn't start the car in the morning (guess why) which he deserved every penny for. And he's as nice a bloke as everyone else says. 2 new fobs, reset alarm as well, let's hope that's the end of it. I hope I never have to post on this topic again but maybe it will help the next person who's wondering why the hell their P&J won't start.
gooner
Damn! Very similar problem since last night. Car is now stranded at Parents house!
Imobiliser locks/unlocks car. Leds flash (as far as I can remember) as normal. All electrics work OK. Petrol pump whirs for a few seconds when ignition on, but nothing on the last turn of the key to start. Just like when you've unlocked the car but not put the key in for 30 seconds...
Only went round to check their place as they are on holiday! Had to steal their car to get me home!
Imobiliser, or Starter relay?????
Imobiliser locks/unlocks car. Leds flash (as far as I can remember) as normal. All electrics work OK. Petrol pump whirs for a few seconds when ignition on, but nothing on the last turn of the key to start. Just like when you've unlocked the car but not put the key in for 30 seconds...
Only went round to check their place as they are on holiday! Had to steal their car to get me home!
Imobiliser, or Starter relay?????
Sorry - being daft - fit a relay where?
Also does anyone know where the imobiliser is, so in worst case scenario, I can just cut the thing out and bypass?
Started tonight - tried both keys - started without issue, drove it 10 feet to make space to return parents car to their parking space and went to drive off, but dead again.
Most frustrating.
HELPPPPPPPP
Also does anyone know where the imobiliser is, so in worst case scenario, I can just cut the thing out and bypass?
Started tonight - tried both keys - started without issue, drove it 10 feet to make space to return parents car to their parking space and went to drive off, but dead again.
Most frustrating.
HELPPPPPPPP
Still stranded though.....GRRRRR.
Can't reach small wire on starter motor to see if live or dead when key turned to see if starter rather than imob.
No wires as per David's mail to do 'the thing' with. Found every other part of picture, just not 'the wires'
Have the dash half out, blown the dash lights, or pulled a cable off. Found alarm - can't find imobiliser yet. Car not at home so have few tools etc.
Just been looking up the price of M3s and M5s...I'm that peed off, and can't affod a 550 Maranello for a while yet. Life sucks
Where's the Vodka gone......
Can't reach small wire on starter motor to see if live or dead when key turned to see if starter rather than imob.
No wires as per David's mail to do 'the thing' with. Found every other part of picture, just not 'the wires'
Have the dash half out, blown the dash lights, or pulled a cable off. Found alarm - can't find imobiliser yet. Car not at home so have few tools etc.
Just been looking up the price of M3s and M5s...I'm that peed off, and can't affod a 550 Maranello for a while yet. Life sucks
Where's the Vodka gone......
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he is very helpful/knowledgeable 