wiring Block D where are you?
wiring Block D where are you?
Author
Discussion

barreti

Original Poster:

6,689 posts

266 months

Sunday 3rd September 2006
quotequote all
My speedo and the reverse lights have decided to be lazy and need a kick up the bum.
All the fuses are OK, so it looks like its a wiring thing. Tracing through the wiring diagram in the bible I see both Reversing Lights and Speed Transducer are fed from the same Green wire coming from BLOCK D

Can someone tell me where this BLOCK D is located and are they the large white blocks which clip together?

BTW, the car is overfuelling and dropping revs off as if its going to stall when I pull up to junctions. I guess this is also because the speed transducer isn't working?

Thanks
Ian

crackedfinger

1,569 posts

258 months

Sunday 3rd September 2006
quotequote all
Might be behind the velcro flap to the left of the passenger seat (goes into the body below the roof hoop hinge). There are a couple of blocks there, I think all the wiring to the back of the car goes this way.

AntonyJ

5,254 posts

310 months

Sunday 3rd September 2006
quotequote all
I reckon its going to be behind the heater control panel, the connections to the gearbox are closest to there so thats where my (little) money lies...........

Barreti

Original Poster:

6,689 posts

266 months

Sunday 3rd September 2006
quotequote all
If I can take my pick can I have crackedfingers suggestion.
Yours sounds like hard work Anthony

AntonyJ

5,254 posts

310 months

Sunday 3rd September 2006
quotequote all
Barreti said:
If I can take my pick can I have crackedfingers suggestion.
Yours sounds like hard work Anthony


Nah, undo the handbrake tension adjuster as far as possible, four 6mm nuts behind the seat, and the T bone lifts out.
30mins work.
If not pull out your radio and delve down to find the block that connects the heater panel(windows too) , I think it may be that one.

barreti

Original Poster:

6,689 posts

266 months

Thursday 12th October 2006
quotequote all
I've still not found this bugger. I've got the centre console out and there's not a single damned connector under there. Looks like the dash is going to have to come out. Unless anyone has any other suggestions?

mongoose

4,360 posts

284 months

Thursday 12th October 2006
quotequote all
Block 'D'??
WTF???

Ballistic Banana

14,706 posts

296 months

Friday 13th October 2006
quotequote all
prehaps there isnt a block D on yours Scooter?

barreti

Original Poster:

6,689 posts

266 months

Friday 13th October 2006
quotequote all
mongoose said:
Block 'D'??
WTF???

PMSL laugh

I'm on about the wiring diagram in the bible P270/271
In the diagram, from the speed transducer and reverse light switch (P270) is a Green wire (G) which is common to both. Chase that G wire through and you end up at the 3rd point on something labelled as BLOCK D in the middle of P271.
I assumed these things labelled BLOCK x (there are a few from A through to M I think, although some aren't very legible) were actual wiring loom connectors. Is this a correct assumption?

mongoose

4,360 posts

284 months

Friday 13th October 2006
quotequote all
Just as an afterthought,the connectors on the rear of the fuseboard are alphabetically labelled.

barreti

Original Poster:

6,689 posts

266 months

Friday 13th October 2006
quotequote all
mmmmMMMMmmmmm. Damned good idea that Mongoose, there's no mention on the diagram of a fusebox. Perhaps I'm chasing ghosts and should test from the back of the fuseboard.
Right, how does THAT come out then?
[sticks nose into bible index]

barreti

Original Poster:

6,689 posts

266 months

Friday 13th October 2006
quotequote all
uh.
No mention of how to get the fusebox detached so you can look behind it. Has anybody done this recently and can offer me some help?

mongoose

4,360 posts

284 months

Friday 13th October 2006
quotequote all
barreti said:
uh.
No mention of how to get the fusebox detached so you can look behind it. Has anybody done this recently and can offer me some help?
It's easy enough to remove the fuseboard.It's much easier if you remove the battery first,then all will be very visible and self explanetary.Whilst the fuseboard holder is also removeable,its far better to just release the board and pull the loom through the back of the holder,which will give you easy access to the rear of the board.The board is usually secured in the holder,with a nut/bolt at the bottom of the holder,and cable ties at the top(easy to miss these in the dark).If the loom still refuses to allow the board to pull clear,then theres probably more cable ties holding it down!

barreti

Original Poster:

6,689 posts

266 months

Friday 13th October 2006
quotequote all
ahh! Thanks Mongoose. I can visualise what you are talking about and I've seen that big bolt but I thought the fuseboard was attached directly to the bulkhead rather than to a holder - so thanks very much for the pointer.
Are the wires soldered onto the back of the fuse terminals - so the problem might be a dry solder joint or disconnected wire.
I won't need anything much more specialised than wire crimps and soldering iron to fix things down there will I ?

I'll have a ferret around down there this weekend - so any big bangs in the Notts area might be me getting a perm!

mf68

199 posts

254 months

Friday 13th October 2006
quotequote all
last time i had mine out they are mostly male and female connectors, on a 93 4.3' getting the fuse box out is the easy part''' got cramp in both leggs putting it back in trying to be as carefull as poss'''' the actual bracket is just held on by one bolt that you can get to from the wheel arch and just wedge a spanner on the inside of the car

martin

FlipFlopGriff

7,144 posts

276 months

Friday 13th October 2006
quotequote all
Ian buggering about again. Await the "I've broken something" post.
FFG

barreti

Original Poster:

6,689 posts

266 months

Friday 13th October 2006
quotequote all
FlipFlopGriff said:
Ian buggering about again. Await the "I've broken something" post.
FFG

laugh
Bugger off

Anyway, I thought 'Fixing' and 'Fettling' were in the contract we all made with the devil when we bought one of these things.

who me ?

7,455 posts

241 months

Friday 13th October 2006
quotequote all
Ahem - thing about grannie and eggs springs to mind, but here goes - is the path from fuse box/terminal to the other end clear ( no odd items en route etc)??.If so why not use a meter on OHMS ( WITH FUSE OUT OF COURSE)and a bit of wire to extend the meter lead(s) and check for continuity between ends ??(eg fuse box to rear light etc.

barreti

Original Poster:

6,689 posts

266 months

Friday 13th October 2006
quotequote all
idea

BRILLIANT !!
Although I am pretty sure its something wrong between the fusebox and the reverse light switch - where the spur is taken for power for the speedo transducer - because if I run a live wire directly to that spur (actually just two wires connected to the same spade connector) I can make the reverse lights work.
But, its still a great idea and one I'll try before pulling out the fusebox.

Thanks.

barreti

Original Poster:

6,689 posts

266 months

Thursday 19th October 2006
quotequote all
Morning All wavey
This is driving me silly now.

I've been through the entire fuse board and mapped out, as far as I can find things, what is where.
I have a 21-fuse board which most closely resembles the bottom board on P240 of the bible - except that board has 22 fuses!
I believe fuse 9 (10a Ignition) is the one 'missing' with all the fuses from there onwards being moved one place to the left.
A couple of key fuses such as Windows (fuse 11 actual, 10 in pic) Fuel Pump (fuse 14 actual, 15 in pic) Heater Blower (fuse 15 actual, 16 in pic) lead me to believe this although there are still anomolies such as the wipers and wiper delay which don't follow the pattern.

Sorry, I'm getting boring, here's the point...
Can someone who has a similar layout tell me if Fuse 10 is the Speedo & Reverse Lights as per the bible layout or is it Fuse 9 as I believe.

Now I've found the fuse board relates to nothing in the bible I'm tempted to just run a new Green wire to the spare fuse (13). Is there any reason I shouldn't do this?