Chassis Protection
Discussion
Any one tried or get any views on this stuff www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=9308
Got a few bits of re protect was looking at Por15 but was looking at ofther stuff that frost do.
Normally HAmmeritte and then waxoyle but with the amount of people raving on about Por 15 will probable give that a go.
BB
Got a few bits of re protect was looking at Por15 but was looking at ofther stuff that frost do.
Normally HAmmeritte and then waxoyle but with the amount of people raving on about Por 15 will probable give that a go.
BB
BB, people seem to have great success with POR15 on their TVR chassis - but I've used it on my Audi, and 6 months on there's rust coming through. I'm glad other people are happy with it, but I'm equally glad I didn't use it on the TVR. That is not a job I want to be doing twice.
I used zinc primer with stoneguard on top on the exposed areas on my chassis and it's still good after three years - but I avoid using the car in the rain! The Audi gets used in all weathers.
Do people who POR their chassis OVER RUST use the car in the wet?
I used zinc primer with stoneguard on top on the exposed areas on my chassis and it's still good after three years - but I avoid using the car in the rain! The Audi gets used in all weathers.
Do people who POR their chassis OVER RUST use the car in the wet?
griffter said:
I used zinc primer with stoneguard on top on the exposed areas on my chassis and it's still good after three years
I'm thinking of using the same, they have a make called "RUST-OLEUM" that sells over here, is that the stuff you used ?
www.proweld.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?cPath=30&products_id=365&osCsid=50ec8de31a2a78a696f432e28dc69e27
Fred
griffter said:
BB, people seem to have great success with POR15 on their TVR chassis - but I've used it on my Audi, and 6 months on there's rust coming through. I'm glad other people are happy with it, but I'm equally glad I didn't use it on the TVR. That is not a job I want to be doing twice.
I used zinc primer with stoneguard on top on the exposed areas on my chassis and it's still good after three years - but I avoid using the car in the rain! The Audi gets used in all weathers.
Do people who POR their chassis OVER RUST use the car in the wet?
I used zinc primer with stoneguard on top on the exposed areas on my chassis and it's still good after three years - but I avoid using the car in the rain! The Audi gets used in all weathers.
Do people who POR their chassis OVER RUST use the car in the wet?
Yes me too glad someone else thinks POR15 isn't the holy grail of rust protection. Don't know if i had a duff batch but didn't rate it at all and all this stuff about it'll never come off your skin etc made me laugh mine came off no bother nearly as well as it did on the wishbones!!
tvr4ever said:
griffter said:
I used zinc primer with stoneguard on top on the exposed areas on my chassis and it's still good after three years
I'm thinking of using the same, they have a make called "RUST-OLEUM" that sells over here, is that the stuff you used ?
www.proweld.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?cPath=30&products_id=365&osCsid=50ec8de31a2a78a696f432e28dc69e27
Fred
No, I used 'ZINC 182' made by 'David's'. It's available from Motor Factors and Motorworld in the UK. I don't know that it's particularly good, but I've used it on several cars over wire brushed/ground rust and no more rust has ever come through. So it's good in my book. The thing is the zinc content which has rust preventing properties. It might not be as tough as POR15, but that's where the stoneguard comes in. I used waxoyl on the non-impacted areas of the chassis. See my profile for hilarious picture of the chassis restoration 'cast', including the odd tin of ZINC 182.
ray_von said:
griffter said:
BB, people seem to have great success with POR15 on their TVR chassis - but I've used it on my Audi, and 6 months on there's rust coming through. I'm glad other people are happy with it, but I'm equally glad I didn't use it on the TVR. That is not a job I want to be doing twice.
I used zinc primer with stoneguard on top on the exposed areas on my chassis and it's still good after three years - but I avoid using the car in the rain! The Audi gets used in all weathers.
Do people who POR their chassis OVER RUST use the car in the wet?
I used zinc primer with stoneguard on top on the exposed areas on my chassis and it's still good after three years - but I avoid using the car in the rain! The Audi gets used in all weathers.
Do people who POR their chassis OVER RUST use the car in the wet?
Yes me too glad someone else thinks POR15 isn't the holy grail of rust protection. Don't know if i had a duff batch but didn't rate it at all and all this stuff about it'll never come off your skin etc made me laugh mine came off no bother nearly as well as it did on the wishbones!!
Def something wrong there. Did you not stir it? It will peel off the powercoating if you do not clean them with metal ready first, that fact that it came off you skin seems to nake it more likely the paint wasn't quite right.
My POR15'ed patio umbrella stand that has been sitting out in all weathers (and is currently under water as we have just had a massive hail storm
) still shows no sgn of rust after 2 1/2 years Galvafroid in brush on or spray tins can be bought relatively cheaply from Electrical Distributors,its used to paint over areas where cuts have been made to galvanised products,I have used it for years on various items nver had a problem ,I think its about 85% Zinc,very important to keep stirring it though.Its not a rust killer though and the best I've ever used of those was a product called Jenolite which I have used on rusty areas on old oil tanks to cure the rust before protecting over at one time this was common on specs for certain bodies.
Just found this on the net
http://jenolite.com/
Just found this on the net
http://jenolite.com/
griffter said:
Do people who POR their chassis OVER RUST use the car in the wet?
YES!!
Front wishbones done nearly 2 years ago with not sign of rust and the car used daily with no garage, around 10k miles pa.
Put some on tye outriggers recently and finished off the top areas with waxoyl. Had to do something as they were going.
I think with all these things preparation is the key.
FFG
yep preparation is the key with POR15 ive had no bother seems bonded to the tubes,a good zinc primer first.total de-grease pressure washed twice with de/greaser i did cheat on a ramp still got POR15 up my arms not recommended,total job 3 evenings after work.Waxoyled the rest,only bothered with the bits the powder coat had come off.
simon, I agree with clarencebodinger, I frequently send a lorry load of steel jobs up to london to be hot dip galvanized, and a salesman came in to work to try to get me to start using Zinga.
this is apparently used a lot in Europe, and is really ideal if touching up a cut piece of galvanized steel, but for long lasting results the steel would have to be shot blasted first, but we found that it scratches very easily, so the protective coating would not last very long.
like you I`ve always used hammerite and waxoil after a really good clean up of whatever its going to cover,and it really pays to use a zinc phosphate primer first, never tried Por15 but would like to give it a go.
clive.
this is apparently used a lot in Europe, and is really ideal if touching up a cut piece of galvanized steel, but for long lasting results the steel would have to be shot blasted first, but we found that it scratches very easily, so the protective coating would not last very long.
like you I`ve always used hammerite and waxoil after a really good clean up of whatever its going to cover,and it really pays to use a zinc phosphate primer first, never tried Por15 but would like to give it a go.
clive.
Edited by clive f on Monday 9th October 18:29
I'm getting mixed feedback about POR15 over plastic coating, on the one hand it MUST be painted over rust or bare metal only, but on the other hand they say any other paint/plastic coating must be roughened to allow it to key, and will mean it doesn't provide corrosion protection. This seems to imply that nothing nasty happens when you paint POR15 over other stuff, just that it only encapulates the stuff under it rather than giving full corrosion protection. Can anyone with practical experience confirm or deny this?
GreenV8S said:
I'm getting mixed feedback about POR15 over plastic coating, on the one hand it MUST be painted over rust or bare metal only, but on the other hand they say any other paint/plastic coating must be roughened to allow it to key, and will mean it doesn't provide corrosion protection. This seems to imply that nothing nasty happens when you paint POR15 over other stuff, just that it only encapulates the stuff under it rather than giving full corrosion protection. Can anyone with practical experience confirm or deny this?
Painting POR15 on clean power coating is difficult as it tends to run off. Also if any waxoyl is left on then the POR15 will peel off. Using the POR15 metal ready eats the surface of the powder coating slightly and the POR15 paint then sticks perfectly.
Also the paint at first seems very very runny, almost like water, it is important to stir the paint to thicken it up
To prep a outrigger the steps are as follows
1) Brush off and loose rust, mud, dirt and use a screw driver to push out any stones stuck between the bodywork and tube.
2) Throughly clean the outrigger with POR15 marine clean
3) Use POR15 metal ready on the steel AND the good powdercoating. Keep the steel wet with metal ready for at least 30 mins. Then dry off.
4) Then paint 3 coats of POR15 on the clean metal, rusted metal and the rest of the outrigger.
POR15 works by stopping the chemical reaction taking place by sealing the rust away from the elements and any mositure in the atmosphere, this will stop the rust spreading under the paint.. This is why preparation in so important, a good bond is essential
GreenV8S said:
POR15 talk abut washing excess Marine Clean and Metal Ready off and then drying the chassis before painting - do you go through all that?
Yeap, just run some kitchen towel down the tubes to dry them - the tricky bits are the inside of the suspension mounts as they have lots of little areas that are tricky to get to.
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