Buying a Griff - What to look for
Discussion
In general if you already have a TVR then a lot of the points will be the same no matter which model you go for.
Most important thing as I see it is the chassis condition which is essential. A good history is important either main dealer or good Indie. Evidence of regular oil changes etc are a must though if a car doesnt have a full history.
Things like original Griff manifolds can potentially cause a bit of grief, that are prone to cracking and its quite common for the gaskets to need replacing from time to time due to the design.
Original pre cats are a bit skittish in the handling department on poor quality roads, the 500's are better but it depends what you want from a car.
I bought my Griff because the chassis was in excellent condition and the interior and body were very well looked after too.
Mine is for sale and in the classifieds, although if you just want to look around one i'll be more than happy for you to have a prod and poke around it.
Oh and another thought, pretty much all Griff heaters are rubbish...lol
Most important thing as I see it is the chassis condition which is essential. A good history is important either main dealer or good Indie. Evidence of regular oil changes etc are a must though if a car doesnt have a full history.
Things like original Griff manifolds can potentially cause a bit of grief, that are prone to cracking and its quite common for the gaskets to need replacing from time to time due to the design.
Original pre cats are a bit skittish in the handling department on poor quality roads, the 500's are better but it depends what you want from a car.
I bought my Griff because the chassis was in excellent condition and the interior and body were very well looked after too.
Mine is for sale and in the classifieds, although if you just want to look around one i'll be more than happy for you to have a prod and poke around it.
Oh and another thought, pretty much all Griff heaters are rubbish...lol
Edited by 350wedge on Monday 8th January 13:08
clive f said:
hi Chris, I knew you`d be on here sooner or later!
basically get the best one you can afford, some quite knowledgeable guys on here will give plenty of advice I`m sure, also see the buyers guide on the griffith pages.com
clive.
basically get the best one you can afford, some quite knowledgeable guys on here will give plenty of advice I`m sure, also see the buyers guide on the griffith pages.com
clive.
Hi Clive, I'm still following you. Can you consult with me before you change your car next time? I'd hate you to get something I wouldn't want!
Edited by profstoff on Monday 8th January 15:09
laz11 said:
350wedge said:
Original pre cats are a bit skittish in the handling department on poor quality roads, the 500's are better but it depends what you want from a car.
Edited by 350wedge on Monday 8th January 13:08
Go for a 4.3 and upgrade the suspension!!
I was thinking of a 500. Apart from power what is the difference between the three options?
Thanks for all the comments.
clear off!! 
Chris, if looking at a 500 check the chassis near the manifolds. The engine bays get hotter (bigger engine plus cats) in the 500's than the pre-cats.
Too much heat can cause problems for the powder coating - making it crisp and flakey! Is why the Chim has the long vents I believe. This particular issue is one of my winter jobs
, wire brush and zinc spray on standby (ok to 500 deg c!).
Too much heat can cause problems for the powder coating - making it crisp and flakey! Is why the Chim has the long vents I believe. This particular issue is one of my winter jobs
, wire brush and zinc spray on standby (ok to 500 deg c!). 
there are some absolute bargans for sale at the moment, and dont forget the red ones are the fastest 
Off the top of my head:
1.Chassis outriggers near fromt and rear wheels.
2.Chassis Rails Under Exhausts.
3.Electrics - Make sure they work. Check in passenger foot well for damp.
4.Early pre-serps generally have Rover LT77S gearbox. Make sure it ain't too noisy. Listen for growling bearings.
5.Oil pressure (pre-serp) when hot and running should be 25-30psi.
6.Cooling is marginal if the system is not maintained. Make sure it don't overheat.
7.Expect early 500 to be lumpy at low revs. (<2000)
8.Non-PAS cars are bloody heavy when parking but OK when rolling.
9.Wipers/headlights and heater are crap - but if you will drive in the dark and wet, then it's your own fault.
10.Should be pretty stunning torque in 1st, 2nd and 3rd!
Most of all, if you drive it and you don't come away grinning then leave it well alone!!
1.Chassis outriggers near fromt and rear wheels.
2.Chassis Rails Under Exhausts.
3.Electrics - Make sure they work. Check in passenger foot well for damp.
4.Early pre-serps generally have Rover LT77S gearbox. Make sure it ain't too noisy. Listen for growling bearings.
5.Oil pressure (pre-serp) when hot and running should be 25-30psi.
6.Cooling is marginal if the system is not maintained. Make sure it don't overheat.
7.Expect early 500 to be lumpy at low revs. (<2000)
8.Non-PAS cars are bloody heavy when parking but OK when rolling.
9.Wipers/headlights and heater are crap - but if you will drive in the dark and wet, then it's your own fault.
10.Should be pretty stunning torque in 1st, 2nd and 3rd!
Most of all, if you drive it and you don't come away grinning then leave it well alone!!
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