camber & castor shims - what are they off?

[FlipFlopGriff]

as it says really. I'm having a set up done on the pre cat and want to get some shims before I get it done (probably this weekend). The car is a 1992 but has 2001 500 suspension, chassis & wishbones.
Thanks in advance.

FFG

[dnb]

They're most likely home-grown TVR parts. You won't need to change the shims for camber IIRC - the balljoint will slide in and out when the pinch bolt is undone.

Mine just has one huge shim on one side of the balljoint. I will be taking said shim to a metal-basher I know and get some thinner versions milled for fine adjustment, although I think this won't suit your timescales...

[spend]

Peninsula (used?) to sell adjustable upper wishbones. Once castor / camber is set you can wind on/off camber to your preference (experimentation/testing) & much easier to set accurately on a lazer rig. Very useful IMHO. Simple wedges to tap in to set upper ball joints make the job easier (all the settings move when torqued up).

Dave

[Griffter]

AFAIK the shims just come on one thickness - they're just there to allow the ball joint to fit in the wishbone. Given that TVR fabricated (past tense - sign of the times) the wishbones I don't know why they din't fabricate them to fit the ball joints with no shim. Anyway...

Also AFAIK camber/castor is done by rotating the top ball joint in the steering knuckle clamp.

[shpub]

Griffter said:

AFAIK the shims just come on one thickness - they're just there to allow the ball joint to fit in the wishbone. Given that TVR fabricated (past tense - sign of the times) the wishbones I don't know why they din't fabricate them to fit the ball joints with no shim. Anyway...

The reason was that the supplier of ball joints had a habit of changing the width so that if the wishbone was an exact fit, everytime a ball joint was changed it might also be new wishbone time. Shims are easier to get/make.