engine oil

[alan c]

I know this will have been asked but!!!
I have a 1996 Griff 500 with 50000miles on the clock.
from getting the car(2004)I have used Mobil 1 15W 50 motorsport ok but 15-30lb ish oil pressure, oil cosumpsion about 1/2lt. per 1k.
Changed to millers 15W 60 last serive 30-30+lb oil pressure but a bit tappety at start up and when cold or stood longer seems to take far to long to quiet down,oil consumpsion 0.
Asked Opie oil say's 60 grade to thick.
All sugestions welcome.

thanks Alan

[clive f]

wait for it, they`ll be along soon like a herd of rampant wilderbeast

[Pasco]

clive f said:

wait for it, they`ll be along soon like a herd of rampant wilderbeast

Who's rattled your cage Fordy

[geoffvalenti]

This time of year, especially, it's going to take a while for the thicker oil to get round the engine on initial startup. So I suppose you've got to expect it to be a bit noisier to begin with. As long as you don't cane the life out of it until its hot, you're not going to get any problems. I suppose you could always put a small tubular heater under the sump, to keep the oil warm, but personally I wouldn't bother.
You think yours is noisy, ought to run one with forged pistons, then you'll know what noise is all about

Personally, and this is only my own views on the subject, I prefer to run a good mineral oil, and change it every 2-3000 miles. After speaking to John Eales, who built the engine, he advised the same, but as always YMMV

I like to see a bit of pressure on the gauge, when the car is idling hot. With a lot of the thinner oils you don't tend to get this.
There's no denying that synthetic oils provide good protection, and in modern highly stressed engines are the oil of necessity. In a 40+ year old (relatively) low revving V8 they're really overkill but I don't think that they'll necessarily do any harm, except maybe to your wallet

Obviously if you're doing trackdays and the like, you'll probably want to change to a fully synthetic oil that can better stand the extremes that it's being put to. For normal everyday driving, and the occasional blat up the bypass it's just not required.

[clive f]

I aggree with geoff, one first getting my griff last year I changed the oil to mobile 1, but the stuff is expensive compared to a 20-50,and I like to change the oil every 6 months regardless of mileage, as geoff says a mineral oil is very good providing its changed regularly no problems, I was using valvoline r1 racing 20-50, and have found that this time of year it does take a few seconds for the pressure to come up, and have now gone to an old favourite of mine the castrol magnatec 10/ 40, a semi synthetic which I think is best for the job, with 4 1/2 litres only £25.

everyone has their own views and experiences on oil types and grades, its a bit like asking about shock absorbers and brands of car polish, if in doubt speak to someone who builds these engines, v8 developments, rpi engineering ect, you`ll find these guys very helpfull.

Edited by clive f on Saturday 3rd February 12:30

Edited by clive f on Saturday 3rd February 12:30

[ray_von]

alan c said:

Asked Opie oil say's 60 grade to thick.

That's strange. I've just been told by the guys who fitted my new short engine to run 10/60 once it's all run in.

Geoff, know what you mean about the forged pistons

Edited by ray_von on Saturday 3rd February 13:41

[that daddy]

geoffvalenti said:

This time of year, especially, it's going to take a while for the thicker oil to get round the engine on initial startup. So I suppose you've got to expect it to be a bit noisier to begin with. As long as you don't cane the life out of it until its hot, you're not going to get any problems. I suppose you could always put a small tubular heater under the sump, to keep the oil warm, but personally I wouldn't bother.
You think yours is noisy, ought to run one with forged pistons, then you'll know what noise is all about

Personally, and this is only my own views on the subject, I prefer to run a good mineral oil, and change it every 2-3000 miles. After speaking to John Eales, who built the engine, he advised the same, but as always YMMV

I like to see a bit of pressure on the gauge, when the car is idling hot. With a lot of the thinner oils you don't tend to get this.
There's no denying that synthetic oils provide good protection, and in modern highly stressed engines are the oil of necessity. In a 40+ year old (relatively) low revving V8 they're really overkill but I don't think that they'll necessarily do any harm, except maybe to your wallet

Obviously if you're doing trackdays and the like, you'll probably want to change to a fully synthetic oil that can better stand the extremes that it's being put to. For normal everyday driving, and the occasional blat up the bypass it's just not required.

i personally use quatum 5/40 fully syn and find oil burning no issue, basically because i buy it in bulk....but Geoff your spot on as you said as long as its changed regular,thats as good as it gets.