distributorless ignition
Discussion
well now the car is running right, im thinking of fitting distributor-less ignition.
i knoticed jeffsy has this on his car, but any reccomendations would be welcome, as well as cost:-)
i would like full 3D mapping fuel and spark.
has anybody fitted a higher lift cam with this set-up and found the car more tunable/smooth as opposed to a standard ignition set up.
comments/inputs most appriciated,thanks mark.
i knoticed jeffsy has this on his car, but any reccomendations would be welcome, as well as cost:-)
i would like full 3D mapping fuel and spark.
has anybody fitted a higher lift cam with this set-up and found the car more tunable/smooth as opposed to a standard ignition set up.
comments/inputs most appriciated,thanks mark.
unclemark123 said:
well now the car is running right, im thinking of fitting distributor-less ignition.
i knoticed jeffsy has this on his car, but any reccomendations would be welcome, as well as cost:-)
i would like full 3D mapping fuel and spark.
has anybody fitted a higher lift cam with this set-up and found the car more tunable/smooth as opposed to a standard ignition set up.
comments/inputs most appriciated,thanks mark.
Both Jeffsy and i run a H404 cam,with fully mapped fuel, and ignition through Landrover/Rangerover P38 coil packs using a wasted spark set up.The P38 coil packs fit very neatly behind the plenum,and bolt to the inlet manifold just as they were designed to!The benefits of mapped ignition are great and cetainly help tame the cam,which for me would be undriveable on the 5.0 litre with just a dizzy-Jeffsy's runs 'softer' still, as he has a larger engine(5.4l). i knoticed jeffsy has this on his car, but any reccomendations would be welcome, as well as cost:-)
i would like full 3D mapping fuel and spark.
has anybody fitted a higher lift cam with this set-up and found the car more tunable/smooth as opposed to a standard ignition set up.
comments/inputs most appriciated,thanks mark.
Jeffsy uses an Emerald ECU and i use an Omex 710.An alternative ecu is the best single mod you can do to these cars imho
Edited by The AJP Griff on Friday 23 February 15:25
spend said:
Has anybody got cam phase without the dizzy yet? I know dnb uses the dizzy (as a sensor) what about you others?
Dave
I'm only on wasted spark Dave,and nevr planned to go coil per plug,so theres no dizzy,and i just use the toothed wheel,Jeffsy's set up is the same. Dave
dont care about ignition, just want an easy stat change really :-)
Your motor is Serp isn't it Mike. Did you blank off the dizzy or fit Gems front cover(and blank the sensor hole). More importantly (to me anyway) did anybody look at installing cam phase from camshaft, I understand it requires engineering with duplex chain setup instead of LR 'funny' sprocket?
Thanks, Dave
Thanks, Dave
richb said:
So in laymans terms what do you have to do? i) replace the coil for a P38 coil pack (say £200) ii) replace the ECU for either an Omex or Emerald (£?) iii) what else? Rolling road session presumably, so what £1k all in? 
Rich...
Hi Rich,you completely remove the coil,amplifier and dizzy if you like.I have replaced the dizzy with a blanking plug(cheap,neat and easy).On a pre-serp you will still need to leave the dizzy shaft in place to run the oil pump.To convert you will need ECU,coil packs,trigger wheel and pick up,loom,and the obvious map.Cost's will vary,depending on which ecu,trigger wheel and coil packs you use.It's not cheap initially,but will save a lot in the long run,and it's why i would always advise it as the first mod to do to one of these cars.If you map the fuel as well,then you can do away with the AFM,and run a larger bore induction and make lots more power too Rich...
Win/Win really.GreenV8S said:
Are you going for coil-on-plug, or sequential injection? Otherwise I don't see why you need to know the cam phase.
Sequential, not so fussed whether wasted spark or not as long as its controllable
I am still fascinated by the concept of multiple injection points (at the port & at the throttle) ~ recently torn between the idea of multi-plenums vs TBs tho.
Dave
I can't see why people pay so much for a P38 coil pack - you can buy an EDIS 8 for around £45 brand new :
www.trigger-wheels.com/electrical.php
www.trigger-wheels.com/electrical.php
rev-erend said:
I can't see why people pay so much for a P38 coil pack - you can buy an EDIS 8 for around £45 brand new :
www.trigger-wheels.com/electrical.php
www.trigger-wheels.com/electrical.php
You don't have to pay too much for a P38 coil pack,they come up on e-bay regularly,both s/hand and new.The nice thing about them is they look factory fitted of course
.The edis packs are great,and as long as your happy with the mounting of them then why not?The AJP Griff said:
richb said:
So in laymans terms what do you have to do? i) replace the coil for a P38 coil pack (say £200) ii) replace the ECU for either an Omex or Emerald (£?) iii) what else? Rolling road session presumably, so what £1k all in? Rich...
Hi Rich,you completely remove the coil,amplifier and dizzy if you like.I have replaced the dizzy with a blanking plug(cheap,neat and easy).On a pre-serp you will still need to leave the dizzy shaft in place to run the oil pump.To convert you will need ECU,coil packs,trigger wheel and pick up,loom,and the obvious map.Cost's will vary,depending on which ecu,trigger wheel and coil packs you use.It's not cheap initially,but will save a lot in the long run,and it's why i would always advise it as the first mod to do to one of these cars.If you map the fuel as well,then you can do away with the AFM,and run a larger bore induction and make lots more power too Rich... Win/Win really. richb said:
The AJP Griff said:
richb said:
So in laymans terms what do you have to do? i) replace the coil for a P38 coil pack (say £200) ii) replace the ECU for either an Omex or Emerald (£?) iii) what else? Rolling road session presumably, so what £1k all in? Rich...
Hi Rich,you completely remove the coil,amplifier and dizzy if you like.I have replaced the dizzy with a blanking plug(cheap,neat and easy).On a pre-serp you will still need to leave the dizzy shaft in place to run the oil pump.To convert you will need ECU,coil packs,trigger wheel and pick up,loom,and the obvious map.Cost's will vary,depending on which ecu,trigger wheel and coil packs you use.It's not cheap initially,but will save a lot in the long run,and it's why i would always advise it as the first mod to do to one of these cars.If you map the fuel as well,then you can do away with the AFM,and run a larger bore induction and make lots more power too Rich... Win/Win really. Certainly less than two grand!Probably a bit more than one,if you want to do it nicely.Joo at Track car solutions would be worth mailing,as he does the Emerald ecu's for the Griff and Chims,and could fit it all and map as one complete package.If you mail him now you might well get a quick response,as we have been exchanging mail tonight
Edited by The AJP Griff on Friday 23 February 21:04
I am a bit frightened by mounting extra unbalanced weight on the crank pulley. I bought a JE sensor kit, which is a very nicely machined steel wheel a sensor and a bracket but have not yet been brave enough to fit it. One suggestion is to have the pulley with toothed wheel fitted balanced as a unit.
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