Discussion
Unlike my last 500, in which I always had to keep an eye on the rising temperature needle, this one runs cool. It certainly * can * get up to 90 degC in traffic, but unlike my ex 500, once on the go it drops way down again. The other day the dial read hardly over 60 degC, on the move. Is this a good thing? Is this a bad thing?
Ed
Ed
Mines like this since i put a re-con rad in and a74deg stat in instead of an 82 deg, it runs at a constant 75ish degrees now until traffic then up to 90ish fans on and down to about 80 then once going again it goes down a little lower, i wouldnt worry too much about it its better cold than hot however the temp guage may be acting up can you feel the fans cutting in when they should at 92 deg i think it is if they are i would say the temp guage is duff if its showing considerably less or the temp sender for the guage. Or perhaps the stat is stuck in the fully open position this would make the engine run cool to , hows the fuel consumption as well because a too cool running engine would use a lot more fuel or so im led to believe , I was thinking that my car was running a little on the cool side but it is cold out now especially here up north and im getting 24- 26 mpg so im thinking im probably okay , But someone will be along soon to tell you for definate as im no mechanic , best of luck , Tom
Mine runs similar temps to. When i bought this one it had temp problems and I did all the usual things to cure it, heat sheilds, lagged manifolds, smaller numberplate lower temp stat etc etc, finally i had the rad replaced and bingo! problem cured only went the opposite way and had to remove some of the mods to control it better.
The issue of fuel econimy mentioned above is to do with the ecu needing the temp to reach a minimum of 75 Deg. (? not certrain of exact temp). for it to switch from cold start (ie choke on) to normal operation.
The issue of fuel econimy mentioned above is to do with the ecu needing the temp to reach a minimum of 75 Deg. (? not certrain of exact temp). for it to switch from cold start (ie choke on) to normal operation.
david beer said:
Well mine runs at 86-88, winter or summer, just like a grown up car. Under-reading guages can be cured by using the spare sender on serp cars, thats actually in water !
David, you've mentioned this before a few times and having checked when you last did I've got the spare temp sensor. Is it as simple as I think - Remove wire from old sender (wherever that is - no bible to hand in the office), extend wire if necessary, include 120ohm resistor in extended wire, plug onto spare sender?
I'd love my gauge to be grown up!
Usually a 120 but an adjustable is best bet. The original is behind the distributor on an old bit of pipe, it has a spade connector and the spare has a round 4mm, you will not need to extend the wire. Of course this will only stop the cold under reading, you will still have the 72- 95 ish, depending on water stat and otter.
Sorry, I rather hijacked this thread... My fans definitely kick in at 92, just ocassionally the gauge is adult! david beer said:
If you know that your fans come on at that temp, then yes, quickly swap over and twiddle until it matches. If you are having trouble sourcing one, let me know.
Ed, are we no longer talking ! And why did TVR supplies delete his post, questions questions.
Ed, are we no longer talking ! And why did TVR supplies delete his post, questions questions.
Are we losing the plot?
Dave
Hmm, fans and coolant, always a big issue.
I've seen my temp gauge go to 100 and fans not on, and I've also seen it jump erratically between 75 and 100 when cruising. Having had an IR probe on the block I am assured it runs OK, but the gauge does not give accurate readings.
One tip I find useful in these circumstances is to watch the voltmeter. When the fans kick in you'll see a drop (in my case roughly from 14 to 13 - again all rough, but if you watch for it you'll notice) but it does let you know that the fans are working if you can't hear them in traffic. Obviously you can check this whilst parked up
Assuming the voltmeter works of course....
Also remember that the sensor that feeds the otter will be either in the swirl pot or (as in mine) on the bottom of the rad - so the otter switch works independently of what the temp gauge is telling you which is on the block
There is a second redundant feed point for a temp sensor which I think has been discussed before?
Dave
I've seen my temp gauge go to 100 and fans not on, and I've also seen it jump erratically between 75 and 100 when cruising. Having had an IR probe on the block I am assured it runs OK, but the gauge does not give accurate readings.
One tip I find useful in these circumstances is to watch the voltmeter. When the fans kick in you'll see a drop (in my case roughly from 14 to 13 - again all rough, but if you watch for it you'll notice) but it does let you know that the fans are working if you can't hear them in traffic. Obviously you can check this whilst parked up
Assuming the voltmeter works of course....
Also remember that the sensor that feeds the otter will be either in the swirl pot or (as in mine) on the bottom of the rad - so the otter switch works independently of what the temp gauge is telling you which is on the block
There is a second redundant feed point for a temp sensor which I think has been discussed before?
Dave
Whilst in traffic and even on the move I can tell when the fans kick in. It's due a service in a couple of months.. I'll get them to take a look & give a healthcheck. Might all be fine.. but as much as anything I'm keen not to always be in the heavy fueling mode !!
Ed
edit to say.. yesterday in slow traffic.. fans happily off & on and temp maxed at around 75 degC... on the move again back down to 65. Must get this checked out!
Ed
edit to say.. yesterday in slow traffic.. fans happily off & on and temp maxed at around 75 degC... on the move again back down to 65. Must get this checked out!
Edited by edt on Saturday 24th March 11:56
CALLING DAVID BEER
David, as discussed last week I tried to use the spare temp sender in my engine yesterday. I bought a 120K resistor, soldered it in line on a short length of wire, one end finished with a male spade connector and the other with a 5A female bullet connector to fit the spare sender. Connected it all up and went for a run to test the results (any excuse) and nothing at all happened on the gauge.... It didn't move at all?
I wasn't able to test anything since it was all scorching hot but any ideas?
What and how can I test anything? I suppose the best thing to check is that I am using what I believe to be the sender... I've plugged onto something about 30mm back and slightly to one side of the ECU temp sender. I can't see anything else nearby, I assume this is correct?
Any advice appreciated
David, as discussed last week I tried to use the spare temp sender in my engine yesterday. I bought a 120K resistor, soldered it in line on a short length of wire, one end finished with a male spade connector and the other with a 5A female bullet connector to fit the spare sender. Connected it all up and went for a run to test the results (any excuse) and nothing at all happened on the gauge.... It didn't move at all?
I wasn't able to test anything since it was all scorching hot but any ideas?
What and how can I test anything? I suppose the best thing to check is that I am using what I believe to be the sender... I've plugged onto something about 30mm back and slightly to one side of the ECU temp sender. I can't see anything else nearby, I assume this is correct?
Any advice appreciated
edt said:
well.. the twin fants certainly cut & in out plenty enough. Fuel economy.. no idea.. seems about as bad as I remember from last car! 350mat.. a pal has an IR reader.. where should i point it?
Ed
Ed
Measure the boss of the gauge temp sensor its the one on the driverside of the bay pointing forward, just to the left (looking at engine bay from front)of the thermostat hosuing.
This should correspond to the gauge reading, if not adjust with an in-line resistor as discussed
Matt
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