Isolator Plates?
Discussion
I'm of the understanding that thermal isolator plates to be fitted between the inlet manifold and plenum base are available through certain outlets. Has anyone researched as to their worth? I'd have thought they would be of little benefit as most of the heat goes into the charge as it flows through the porting of the head and around the valve. I'd also have thought that much of the heat conveyed to the plenum and plenum base would have been through radiation from the engine.
However, as it's likely I'll have the top end of the motor apart in the very near future I was thinking of making something in a material which has good isolating properties (maybe Tuffnol or something of the like) and reducing its surface further still by relieving the contact area by drilling.
Any thoughts?
However, as it's likely I'll have the top end of the motor apart in the very near future I was thinking of making something in a material which has good isolating properties (maybe Tuffnol or something of the like) and reducing its surface further still by relieving the contact area by drilling.
Any thoughts?
Obviously I'm a bit biased
but when I made the first one for my wedge, I had an Emerald ECU with data logging and a air temperature sensor fitted inside the plenum above one of the trumpets.
This meant I could log the air temperature before and after, and I measured a 12-15° drop in temperature after fitting the plate.
Having fitted a couple now I know of cars whereupon fitting the isolator it also stops problems they were having with detonation on hot days.
Cheap Horsepower I'd say
Matt
but when I made the first one for my wedge, I had an Emerald ECU with data logging and a air temperature sensor fitted inside the plenum above one of the trumpets. This meant I could log the air temperature before and after, and I measured a 12-15° drop in temperature after fitting the plate.
Having fitted a couple now I know of cars whereupon fitting the isolator it also stops problems they were having with detonation on hot days.
Cheap Horsepower I'd say
Matt
You can buy nylon washers from RS which would do the trick for insulation, they are a bit soft tho' and could disintegrate when torqued up.
Mabye some ceramic ones? these might break with engine vibration tho'...
Might struggle a bit with this, probably better off leaving alone if you don't want a wobbly plenum in a few thousand miles time.
Matt
Mabye some ceramic ones? these might break with engine vibration tho'...
Might struggle a bit with this, probably better off leaving alone if you don't want a wobbly plenum in a few thousand miles time.
Matt
All engines have 'xx' hp but how many of them do you loose when conditions are not ideal..
Sitting at lights waiting for the green - engine bay getting hotter and hotter..or a start line of a track day.
This superb and cheap idea stops you from loosing those horses..
Mat's product is superb (very slim) and very reasonable..
I know it's available in 38mm(std) and large (45mm) ...
Sitting at lights waiting for the green - engine bay getting hotter and hotter..or a start line of a track day.
This superb and cheap idea stops you from loosing those horses..
Mat's product is superb (very slim) and very reasonable..
I know it's available in 38mm(std) and large (45mm) ...
Slacey said:
How much for a 5 litre engine and where from? PM if necessary, thanks!
www.magnaparva.com/product_tspacer.php
Give them a call .. it's not expensive.
As you will se - it's not their main business.. thats a little more exotic (dont worry it's clean !)
I've got some PTFE sheet (originally planned as a valley gasket insulator) which is pretty tough (and stays tough at high temperatures), I think washers made from this would work OK if they were protected by a steel washer on either side to apply the load evenly. Directly under a bolt head they would be cut to shreds through.
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