Tracking figures?

[350matt]

Does anyone know what sort of figures the front and rear toe should be set to?, camber figures would also be helpful

Matt

[coetzeeh]

Calling Gazman - Derek where are you?

[spend]

There are a couple of recent threads with figures discussed & dissed....

eg:www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&t=352156&r=4792191&hm=24527#4792191

Dave

[GreenV8S]

I don't know the official figures (or even if there are any, any more) but for a conventional road setup I think you'd be looking for around 0.3-0.5 degrees total toe-in front and rear and about 1 degree -ve camber all round. Caster is more or less fixed, I think it's around 4 degrees, doesn't seem fussy as long as both sides are the same. You can run more -ve camber, if you do then it seems to like about 0.1 degrees toe in per side for every degree -ve camber you add. This gives you a rough starting point, but you may need to vary it depending what springs/dampers you're running, which ARBs (and how rigidly they're connected), how much power you've got and how you want it to handle etc.

[clive f]

there is a step by step guide on the griffith pages.

[dnb]

You need a little more toe-in than you think if you use the car on rough roads. The bump-steer inherent in the Griff tends to toe the wheels out on bumps. Unless you've played with shims etc on the steering rack or track rod ends.

[crazycraig]

clive f said:

there is a step by step guide on the griffith pages.

I've just read the write up, and with all due respect, surely you wouldn't be able to get the toe / tracking accurate using the length of wood method.

[GreenV8S]

crazycraig said:

clive f said:

there is a step by step guide on the griffith pages.

I've just read the write up, and with all due respect, surely you wouldn't be able to get the toe / tracking accurate using the length of wood method.

Any particular reason why not?

[dnb]

You'd be surprised how accurate you can get these things with wood, string a tape measure & spirit level...

[seasider]

crazycraig said:

clive f said:

there is a step by step guide on the griffith pages.

I've just read the write up, and with all due respect, surely you wouldn't be able to get the toe / tracking accurate using the length of wood method.

Spirit level & a measure help


Had mine laser checked after i'd done it & the guy said if he tried to get it any closer to my desired setting he'd struggle

[trackcar]

I used a wooden frame tracking set-up i made myself for a couple of years .. only reason i changed to a bought set-up is to make my self look more professional .. does the same job though

[the gazman]

You can ask this question till the cows come home and get so many variables. The original recomendations were for 0.5 to 0.75 degrees of camber all round and about 1mm or 8 minutes of toe.
As was pointed out earlier bump steer was a problem on all early Tivs and I do a bump steer test as a matter of course and toe in the front accordingly if required.
I absolutely refuse to give out figures without first discussing the customers needs with them but I can say that Neil Anderson and the geometry expert employed by TVR had a full and frank discussion and eventually decided that more rear camber and toe definately helped all models with better rear grip, I then mostly vary the front to suit driver styles, keeping the rear grip.
I'm sure that the string and tape measure brigade get good results but I've just invested in 10k's worth of kit and I have found that bearing turnplates make a huge difference in stopping stress in the tyre while adjusting.

[crazycraig]

GreenV8S said:

Any particular reason why not?

Yes.....but saying that it maybe just in my mind , hopefully someone could enlighten me.

If we say for example a car already is out of shape and has it's left wheel toeing in and the right wheel is straight before you start, which you wouldn't notice with the eye, if you just use the wood pushed up against the tyres and adjust both sides to keep it equal to get the measurements correct like the 5mm as Nic mentioned in his write up, it looks as if both wheels are at the correct toe but the wheels would still be out.

I may just be talking B*lls but I don't know, see the pics below to see how I see it.

WRONG



The only way of getting it accurate would be to use the centre line of a car as a base point so that both the front of the wheels are the same distance from the centre line and the rear of the wheels are the same distance from the centre line.

CORRECT



What do you think? Talking poo or not?

[the gazman]

Yep
I presume you are talking thrust angles here and I currently use a laser version of Dunlop guages with flags on the front or rear wheels.
So before I look at toe, I get an equal thrust by tweeking the toe adjusters (if the flippin things move) and then look at total toe, it can be possitive one side and negative the other but as long as the total toe conforms with what I want and the front and wheels are working on the same thrust, "the jobs a goodun". If the total toe is wrong I increase or decrease the thrust equally to get what I want

BTW I always start at the back.

Bit easier with the new kit because it looks at the relationship between all wheels and cambers and checks caster first.

Edited by the gazman on Thursday 29th March 17:10