Chassis outrigger repair/replace.
Chassis outrigger repair/replace.
Author
Discussion

barreti

Original Poster:

6,689 posts

266 months

Thursday 29th March 2007
quotequote all
Things seem far too quiet over here these days so I thought i'd try and stir you out of your slumber a bit.

I've been poking around under the car for ages now, cleaning up the chassis and painting/waxoyling etc. and got to wondering just how complicated replacing outriggers actually is, but the search has only brought up about 3 threads about this and they are very scary reading.

Now either the chassis rot we all read about is complete shite and folklore, or there are more than 3 people who have replaced their outriggers.
It looks tight under there but not hideous, but then I'm not a welder. So, just how difficult or expensive a job is it and how is it done?



BTW: Zinc primer and POR15 does stick to you like shit to a blanket!

gorvid

22,371 posts

254 months

Thursday 29th March 2007
quotequote all
My Chim has just had the lot done...I'll find out what the issues were from the chap who did it

That Daddy

19,450 posts

250 months

Thursday 29th March 2007
quotequote all
Ian, i cant see changing the outriggers as much of a problem if you can use a Mig welder and can source the tube,i would imagine the problem is gonna be removing the body from the chassis(doing in situ properly is out of the question)and prepping and painting and the getting sidetracked disease thats so contageous with these carslaughOh and by the way the outrigger rot problem is very real i saw one car in sussex that was so bad i think i could have crushed the tubes with finger and thumb pressure,and at least poked holes clean thru with a screwdriver(seriously)i warned the guy he was going to have trouble selling then walked away.


Edited by That Daddy on Thursday 29th March 22:27

unclemark123

883 posts

237 months

Thursday 29th March 2007
quotequote all
i imagine it would be a real headache to replace them having to lift the body off, but if they had to be done has anybody tried replacing them with stainless steel tubing? stainless does weld to mild steel perfectly, and the extra weight is minimal? seems like a good idea to me!

David H

809 posts

270 months

Thursday 29th March 2007
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barreti

Original Poster:

6,689 posts

266 months

Thursday 29th March 2007
quotequote all
That's very interesting David H thanks. I must admit I didn't search the Cerb forum.
If I read this right it looks like you can cut sections out of the outriggers and replace them by cutting holes in the floor - i guess this is so you can weld all the way around?

I must admit I thought you'd have to cut back to the main chassis box section. I'd never have guessed you could have cut and welded in way out there at the end of the wheel arch tubes.

£420 seems bloody good value to me too for welding and GRP work.

spend

12,581 posts

280 months

Thursday 29th March 2007
quotequote all
I think there are some interesting projects that have been documented on earlier models if you have a search around. Someone even did measurements & templates for the Wedge IIRC.

Dave

barreti

Original Poster:

6,689 posts

266 months

Friday 30th March 2007
quotequote all
Had a dig around on the Wedge forum - thanks for the advice Dave.

Can you really replace the outriggers - thats everything from the centre box section chassis around the driver & passenger - using stainless tube? Seems a real no brainer to me since it won't ever rot so why bother using mild steel if you've gone to the trouble of either lifting the body or cutting holes in the floor?

the gazman

1,686 posts

249 months

Friday 30th March 2007
quotequote all
Moore racing and Tower View both do a part lift to get at the outriggers and charge C £500 iirc

dnb

3,330 posts

271 months

Friday 30th March 2007
quotequote all
It's not as difficult as people make out to get the body off. The items in my lounge will testify to that

Guillotine

5,516 posts

293 months

Friday 30th March 2007
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Dulford Automotive did that Cerb...top job too!

I saw what cam out yikes

andy
monster

jester7

423 posts

245 months

Friday 30th March 2007
quotequote all
dnb said:
It's not as difficult as people make out to get the body off. The items in my lounge will testify to that


Deffinatly what dnb said!!! If your doing it yourself its free, (well a couple of beers for the mates who help with the lifting!!) So you can save the £500 to pay for the blasting and powder coat or 15 gallons of POR 15 and paper overalls!!!!!thumbup

dnb

3,330 posts

271 months

Friday 30th March 2007
quotequote all
Blasting & zinc phosphate spraying cost me £140 for the chassis & all the wishbones.

Definitely need the overalls for POR15. The stuff is amazing at sticking to anything other than polypropylene...

spend

12,581 posts

280 months

Friday 30th March 2007
quotequote all
If you are quick thinners will remove POR, but if you are not so quick the proper POR solvent is well worth buying (but it stings like sh*t when you have to unpaint your face).

Dave

LordGrover

34,165 posts

241 months

Friday 30th March 2007
quotequote all
spend said:
If you are quick thinners will remove POR, but if you are not so quick the proper POR solvent is well worth buying (but it stings like sh*t when you have to unpaint your face).

Dave

Don't paint your face then!

spend

12,581 posts

280 months

Friday 30th March 2007
quotequote all
LordGrover said:
spend said:
If you are quick thinners will remove POR, but if you are not so quick the proper POR solvent is well worth buying (but it stings like sh*t when you have to unpaint your face).

Dave

Don't paint your face then!

You've not seen how much mess Ian makes! We're 30 miles away but its been PORing it down here

Dave

barreti

Original Poster:

6,689 posts

266 months

Friday 30th March 2007
quotequote all
spend said:
If you are quick thinners will remove POR, but if you are not so quick the proper POR solvent is well worth buying (but it stings like sh*t when you have to unpaint your face).

Dave

Yep, I can vouch for that. Cleaned off a big wipe mark under my chin last night with MrsB's nail varnish remover. FECK eek

AJC

45 posts

273 months

Friday 30th March 2007
quotequote all
I seem to be in the same boat as a few more. I have stripped my 94 Griff with the intention of making sure all is well with the outriggers but expecting to replace some parts and as it turns out they have rotted at all four corners just above where the plates are welded. This was not apparent until the shot blasting was started so I am glad I got on with it sooner rather than later
As for taking the body off I did this myself and found that jacking the car up and then lowering the chassis etc down was the best way for me then roll the chassis out and then stripping everything off it
As said by others I did not find this too hard to do but as for putting it all back together only time will tell?

barreti

Original Poster:

6,689 posts

266 months

Saturday 31st March 2007
quotequote all
Thanks AJC, good luck putting it all back together.

Can you tell me what you've got the body stood on now and which body places are strong enough to hold its weight.

dnb

3,330 posts

271 months

Saturday 31st March 2007
quotequote all
I found 2 lengths of 2x4" wood through the wheel arches front and back was sufficient to support the body.