Rear end clunk
Discussion
I have a “Clunk” at emanating from the rear of the car. It seems to be related to body roll but not always. Sometimes it will clunk with only the slightest movement and other times it happens when really pushing into a corner. Tackling a sweeping S bend it will usualy go Clunk Clunk. I don’t think it happened prior to fitting rose jointed drop links, bolting the roll hoop back in and refitting the Nitrons after a service. I have spent a lot of time checking and altering the drop link alignment and can’t see how they are locking up. The anti roll bar bushes were a bit sad so I changed them but it still clunks. It doesn’t seem to be transmission as I can get it to clunk when freewheeling.
Any ideas ?
Any ideas ?
Think you`ll still find its them there drop links, took me a while to get mine right. Eventually, I got mine sorted by automedon (or so I thought) not a bad word for them, I just think they take a little while to settle, so tweaked mine later on and finally got the ok.
Could contact Steve Heath, helpful geezer!
Dave. STILL waiting for his Griff to be fixed! Hi fellas, hurry up
Could contact Steve Heath, helpful geezer!
Dave. STILL waiting for his Griff to be fixed! Hi fellas, hurry up
you should be able the "wobble" the droplinks from side to side when fitted as shown to me by a nice chap in a Red Griffith at Oulton last year. This indicates the are aligned.
I had a knock from the rear boot - nylock nuts & loctite sorted the boot bracket but your description sounds more that a loose bracket.
I had a knock from the rear boot - nylock nuts & loctite sorted the boot bracket but your description sounds more that a loose bracket.
I'm interested to see the SH ARB links may need adjustment. During a properly spirited jaunt today I developed a knocky, clinky, clunk - esp. cornering under power. It's similar to the noise I had which was remedied by adjusting these links (after new wishbones were fitted). This was done by Dulford's, so I don't really know how to adjust them. I'm guessing it's a matter of tightening/slackening them, but which and how far? Or is it a try it and see?
When the car's on its wheels, they're tight, but when both wheels are off the ground they're (a bit) 'baggy'.
When the car's on its wheels, they're tight, but when both wheels are off the ground they're (a bit) 'baggy'.
I am experiencing similar noises - emailed SH and his reply as follows:
There should be no tension on the droplinks with the car on the ground. The
only time there should be any tension is when the car starts to roll and the
ARB starts to twist and apply force onto the wishbones.
As for the rattling... It is worth checking the nuts and bolts are tight
especially the ones in the anodised yoke. They should clamp the rose joint
bearing rather than let the bolt be the bearing itself. A giveaway here is
some play in the drop link when the ARB is pulled up or down. This normally
gives itself away as a clunk rather than a rattle though.
There should be no tension on the droplinks with the car on the ground. The
only time there should be any tension is when the car starts to roll and the
ARB starts to twist and apply force onto the wishbones.
As for the rattling... It is worth checking the nuts and bolts are tight
especially the ones in the anodised yoke. They should clamp the rose joint
bearing rather than let the bolt be the bearing itself. A giveaway here is
some play in the drop link when the ARB is pulled up or down. This normally
gives itself away as a clunk rather than a rattle though.
Think I have cracked this one now. Over the past few weeks have tried various different combinations of washers, spacers and alignment of the rose joints but without solving the Clunk. With one wheel on the ground and the other wheel off and supported under the upright with a jack it is possible to load and un load the roll bar. Doing this I could make the clunk but not see what was causing it or tell which side it was coming from. At all times the joints were free to move.
Last weekend I fitted new roll bar bushes but still had the clunk. Today I tired refitting one old link and doing the jack up test to see which side was clunking. Took the offending side off and put it back several times but to no avail. Then I tried refitting it but this time REALLY tightening the large bolt that fixes to the wishbone. I got the wheel nut torque wrench on it and treated it like a wheel nut… result no clunk.
Can only think that the welded on washer was flexing (like a biscuit tin lid) and going clunk, Holding it more firmly seems to have stopped it. Or perhaps coincidentally after about 10 attempts I have got the alignment correct.
Last weekend I fitted new roll bar bushes but still had the clunk. Today I tired refitting one old link and doing the jack up test to see which side was clunking. Took the offending side off and put it back several times but to no avail. Then I tried refitting it but this time REALLY tightening the large bolt that fixes to the wishbone. I got the wheel nut torque wrench on it and treated it like a wheel nut… result no clunk.
Can only think that the welded on washer was flexing (like a biscuit tin lid) and going clunk, Holding it more firmly seems to have stopped it. Or perhaps coincidentally after about 10 attempts I have got the alignment correct.
Glad you got it sorted.
The jack up one side test is really important to do as it is the only way of checking that the fitting is OK.
The point about the top bolt is interesting as I have seen that washer just tacked in place and it could as you say simply be flexing.
I'll add the point to the fitting instructions.
The jack up one side test is really important to do as it is the only way of checking that the fitting is OK.
The point about the top bolt is interesting as I have seen that washer just tacked in place and it could as you say simply be flexing.
I'll add the point to the fitting instructions.
LordGrover said:
I'm interested to see the SH ARB links may need adjustment. During a properly spirited jaunt today I developed a knocky, clinky, clunk - esp. cornering under power. It's similar to the noise I had which was remedied by adjusting these links (after new wishbones were fitted). This was done by Dulford's, so I don't really know how to adjust them. I'm guessing it's a matter of tightening/slackening them, but which and how far? Or is it a try it and see?
When the car's on its wheels, they're tight, but when both wheels are off the ground they're (a bit) 'baggy'.
When the car's on its wheels, they're tight, but when both wheels are off the ground they're (a bit) 'baggy'.
The only adjustment should be done during fitting and that is because the positional relationship between the ARB bar and wishbone is variable. The Jack up one side test is essential to chcek that the fitting is fine. The fitting instructions are on the website www.tvrextras.co.uk
Go to the product and click on the download pdf at the bottom of the description.
shpub said:
LordGrover said:
I'm interested to see the SH ARB links may need adjustment. During a properly spirited jaunt today I developed a knocky, clinky, clunk - esp. cornering under power. It's similar to the noise I had which was remedied by adjusting these links (after new wishbones were fitted). This was done by Dulford's, so I don't really know how to adjust them. I'm guessing it's a matter of tightening/slackening them, but which and how far? Or is it a try it and see?
When the car's on its wheels, they're tight, but when both wheels are off the ground they're (a bit) 'baggy'.
When the car's on its wheels, they're tight, but when both wheels are off the ground they're (a bit) 'baggy'.
The only adjustment should be done during fitting and that is because the positional relationship between the ARB bar and wishbone is variable. The Jack up one side test is essential to chcek that the fitting is fine. The fitting instructions are on the website tvrextras.co.uk*.
Go to the product and click on the download pdf at the bottom of the description.
Coolio, thanks Steve. Printed out ready to take home to have a fiddle one night this week.
*I've edited the quotation of your original post to link directly to the pdf should anyone else want it.
Edited by LordGrover on Tuesday 17th April 09:17
Ian, your description of the sound is spot on and indeed mine would sometimes clunk with the slightest movement, adding some lock to the steering for example. After playing with the drop link alignment for a while I started to blame one of the dampers because you can get the same sort of sound by taping one if the springs. Also went round all the suspension bolts and checked they were tight. The biggest problem was determining which side it was coming from. When in the car it came from the roll hoop rather than anywhere else.
Steve. If you are rewriting the instructions then I would suggest the description of which way the slot should face in relation to the roll bar could be clearer. Having said that, it becomes obvious after faffing with them for a while.
The improvement in handling has been more than worth the agro, so if anybody is wavering don’t let this thread put you off.
Steve. If you are rewriting the instructions then I would suggest the description of which way the slot should face in relation to the roll bar could be clearer. Having said that, it becomes obvious after faffing with them for a while.
The improvement in handling has been more than worth the agro, so if anybody is wavering don’t let this thread put you off.
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