Bonnet venting
Discussion
Has anyone done this and if so could you post some piccies?
Im expriencing higher temps than I would like when the ambient temperature rises due to good weather and Im a litte worried about a hot summer and slow moving traffic ie traffic jams.
I am trying water wetter however venting may be a last resort....
cheers
Im expriencing higher temps than I would like when the ambient temperature rises due to good weather and Im a litte worried about a hot summer and slow moving traffic ie traffic jams.
I am trying water wetter however venting may be a last resort....
cheers
Do you have a good rad & do you know for sure that both fans are working properly? I see no reason why a Griff should run hot if the cooling system is correct.
Are you worried the 5.4 produces more waste heat than the 5 and will be too much for the standard cooling system to cope with? If so, talk to Radtec!
Are you worried the 5.4 produces more waste heat than the 5 and will be too much for the standard cooling system to cope with? If so, talk to Radtec!
cant reccomended it enough Nice article in Sprint, Jeffsy, mine arrived yesterday.
Have you thought about a smaller front number plate to improve airflow? Also heat shields on the manifolds? I'd go for the fan-switching option - the pictures of Griffs with vented bonnets make them look like bastardised Chims (eek! the horror! .mark will be along soon to chastise me for baiting Chim owners)
As a matter of interest, just because I'm nosy, how much did the new engine and associated works set you back?
Alan
Have you thought about a smaller front number plate to improve airflow? Also heat shields on the manifolds? I'd go for the fan-switching option - the pictures of Griffs with vented bonnets make them look like bastardised Chims (eek! the horror! .mark will be along soon to chastise me for baiting Chim owners)
As a matter of interest, just because I'm nosy, how much did the new engine and associated works set you back?
Alan
Ceramic coated manifolds will be more effective than venting IMHO.
Std rad with upgraded core should be well able to cope with anything you need - Cerbs use it and even have AC to stress it a little more. If your core is calked up it wont be very efficient though...
Otter switch location/operation can be a problem IMHO, David Beers 2stage Fan thingy is a quick/easy fix. You could also try the lower 74C stat for a couple of quid (be prepared to shiver in winter)
Making sure air goes thru the rad + avoiding recirc by packing the edges of rad with pipe lagging costs next 2 nothing.
Dave
Std rad with upgraded core should be well able to cope with anything you need - Cerbs use it and even have AC to stress it a little more. If your core is calked up it wont be very efficient though...
Otter switch location/operation can be a problem IMHO, David Beers 2stage Fan thingy is a quick/easy fix. You could also try the lower 74C stat for a couple of quid (be prepared to shiver in winter)
Making sure air goes thru the rad + avoiding recirc by packing the edges of rad with pipe lagging costs next 2 nothing.
Dave
Dave - I agree with you on everything but the 74 degree stat. It's a sticking plaster instead of solving the real problem. 74c is too cold to run an engine, and with a good rad the engine will sit at 74c on a motorway cruise very easily, meaning you have to stuff things in front of the core to block it up, or have the ECU think the car is not warm and turn the start-up enrichment back on...
David, Having a stat that reacts faster cannot do any harm. I would rather undergo changing stats with the seasons than suffer fear of warping my heads. 
Since many of the stats have large bleed holes - which can overcool anyway in winter it is very difficult to even compare stats by 'on the box' numbers. We have'nt even started on big bore / small bore ~~ they're a dlooby minefield In my book.
I for one am I quite interested to see how MrColes mod works out as an alternative. My car seems to keep attracting Rover 400 bits anyway?
Dave
Since many of the stats have large bleed holes - which can overcool anyway in winter it is very difficult to even compare stats by 'on the box' numbers. We have'nt even started on big bore / small bore ~~ they're a dlooby minefield In my book. I for one am I quite interested to see how MrColes mod works out as an alternative. My car seems to keep attracting Rover 400 bits anyway?
Dave
spend said:
David, Having a stat that reacts faster cannot do any harm...
But it's not reacting faster! It's only opening at a lower temperature. (you're right though - with the amount of stats there are out there is a damned minefield...)
Surely what matters is to be able to dissipate the heat from the engine when idling in traffic when there's no airflow over the rad. Hence we need an efficient core and efficient fans. The lower temperature stat buys you time, but I wouldn't accept it as "the solution".
It wasn't the season changes that got me when I had a 74 degree stat - it was a cool day in a hot summer. Changing the stat for the day's weather isn't acceptable to me
Maybe the answer is an ECU controlled electric water pump and no stat at all?
Edited by dnb on Wednesday 9th May 16:59
i fitted the lower temp stat, all that happened was on a run i.e continious sufficient airflow the temp stayed at the opening temp of the stat within a couple of degrees.
tried watter wetter too.....didnt do f/a
with the alloy rad ive fitted an adjustable otter switch, set at 88ish deg. and i run a standard 82 deg stat.
once up to temp it never goes below the 82, and never about 94ish. sweet as.
also obviously make sure there are no leaks,blocks,and the coolant is up to the right level.and there are no air locks.
finally make sure both fans are working, i ran my car for a while before realising i only had one fan working duh
tried watter wetter too.....didnt do f/a
with the alloy rad ive fitted an adjustable otter switch, set at 88ish deg. and i run a standard 82 deg stat.
once up to temp it never goes below the 82, and never about 94ish. sweet as.
also obviously make sure there are no leaks,blocks,and the coolant is up to the right level.and there are no air locks.
finally make sure both fans are working, i ran my car for a while before realising i only had one fan working duh
Edited by unclemark123 on Wednesday 9th May 17:20
Edited by unclemark123 on Wednesday 9th May 17:22
Edited by unclemark123 on Wednesday 9th May 17:23
I have done a bit of work on my cooling, tried ally rads(3 in fact) were good but failed, my fault aparantly ! With proper fan control there is no need to go low water stat route. Early Griffs can gain 50% more power to the fans, later still 30%,worth doing as much as posible, so as to have some reserve. Of course also set up so the car is never stopped still without the fans on, so under bonnet temps do not rise.
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