Discussion
I've done a search on the forums and drawn a blank and my Griff bible is a bit vague in this area.
Only one of my fans are working on my M reg 500. So far in my fault finding I have:
a) checked the fuses - both look fine and I have swapped them for new ones to be on the safe side.
b) swapped the relays - result is the same in both cases with the same fan working
c) Swapped the block connectors on the fans - the other fan starts working but still only one.
Should both fans kick in at the same temp? I assume so as there only seems to be one temp sensor.
This isn't a massive issue at present, as I have a five core radiator and the weather isn't too hot. The temp creeps above an indicated 90 deg on a hot day in traffic but is fine the rest of the time. However, if its something simple, I'd prefer to sort it out myself rather than go all the way to the dealer and back.
Does anyone have any ideas of where to go to next?
Only one of my fans are working on my M reg 500. So far in my fault finding I have:
a) checked the fuses - both look fine and I have swapped them for new ones to be on the safe side.
b) swapped the relays - result is the same in both cases with the same fan working
c) Swapped the block connectors on the fans - the other fan starts working but still only one.
Should both fans kick in at the same temp? I assume so as there only seems to be one temp sensor.
This isn't a massive issue at present, as I have a five core radiator and the weather isn't too hot. The temp creeps above an indicated 90 deg on a hot day in traffic but is fine the rest of the time. However, if its something simple, I'd prefer to sort it out myself rather than go all the way to the dealer and back.
Does anyone have any ideas of where to go to next?
V8_GWA said:
Sounds like a great plan - now if only I understood it...
I'm assuming that means running a wire to a some section of the chassis. Where should the other end of the wire go to?
sorry - bit thick!
No woes bro, on the fan thats NOT working disconnect the white block conector thats usually behind the rad. In this there will be 2 wires and from memory the earth is black, run a wire from chassis or alt bracket to this blsck fan connector and run eng up to temp to see if fan engagesI'm assuming that means running a wire to a some section of the chassis. Where should the other end of the wire go to?
sorry - bit thick!
ALL CURRENT OWNERS PLEASE CHECK THIS INFO as its been a while since I pssed my car on abd I dont want topass on duff inf.
B19 RUS said:
V8_GWA said:
Sounds like a great plan - now if only I understood it...
I'm assuming that means running a wire to a some section of the chassis. Where should the other end of the wire go to?
sorry - bit thick!
No woes bro, on the fan thats NOT working disconnect the white block conector thats usually behind the rad. In this there will be 2 wires and from memory the earth is black, run a wire from chassis or alt bracket to this blsck fan connector and run eng up to temp to see if fan engagesI'm assuming that means running a wire to a some section of the chassis. Where should the other end of the wire go to?
sorry - bit thick!
ALL CURRENT OWNERS PLEASE CHECK THIS INFO as its been a while since I pssed my car on abd I dont want topass on duff inf.
See you at the Growl this year big fella?? What day?
Stick a multimeter on the 'duff' connector & check for 12v on the pink wire, and 0 ohms on the black wire to the chassis.
Early cars if they have single relay just have each pink wire (30A) going all the way to the back of the fuse box where they share the same pin on the relay. The black wires are all 'gaggled' together for the front undertray and then crimped onto a big ring terminal fastened on the infamous front chassis bolt under the rad.
So unlikely anything wrong with otter or relay I would guess
Dave
Early cars if they have single relay just have each pink wire (30A) going all the way to the back of the fuse box where they share the same pin on the relay. The black wires are all 'gaggled' together for the front undertray and then crimped onto a big ring terminal fastened on the infamous front chassis bolt under the rad.
So unlikely anything wrong with otter or relay I would guess
Dave
Having acquired multimeter, I have checked that there is no feed going to the block connector on the fan that isn't working. I have tried from the live feed to one of the bolts on the expansion tank and still nothing.
I then tried going from the live feed on the working fan block connector to the earth on the not working fan and got 12v.
Does this mean the earth is okay on both block connectors?
With a two fan, two relay, two fuse set up, should both fans come on at the same temp and time?
I seem to be running out of obvious stuff!
I then tried going from the live feed on the working fan block connector to the earth on the not working fan and got 12v.
Does this mean the earth is okay on both block connectors?
With a two fan, two relay, two fuse set up, should both fans come on at the same temp and time?
I seem to be running out of obvious stuff!
That diagnosis of the earth being Ok sounds about right. You really need to know how your fuse box is wired (handbooks etc can be fallible and even if correct someone may have done an upgrade), If in doubt the easiest way IMHO is to carefully pop the fusebox out and see where the 2 pink wires go, and where the green/pink wire(and possibly link) goes at the back of the fusebox. And checking for any stressed / damaged cabling behind the fusebox whilst you're at it is well worth it IMHO.
Dave
Dave
Depends on the way its put together... Doing it that way you have to cut the cable ties on the top, and its hard to get the loom out so you can see what your doing. If you look at the fglass casing it sits on, that is just bolted thru the wheelarch with 2 nuts/bolts and when removed the whole lot lifts out comfortably as far as the passenger door (my preference by far ).
Dave
).Dave
Find the pins the pink wires (fans) come from and the green/pink (otter switch) wires are connected to. Somewhere on tvr3.dspen.com there is a description of the fusebox connections that will tell which fuse/relay they link to. If you cant follow it tell me I have a diagram which is easier..
Dave
ETA, BTW while its out, its well worth pulling everything from from the fusebox, give it a quick wipe, check for any bad/bare wires and give all the contacts a bit of electrical grease (a little goes a long long way).
Dave
ETA, BTW while its out, its well worth pulling everything from from the fusebox, give it a quick wipe, check for any bad/bare wires and give all the contacts a bit of electrical grease (a little goes a long long way).
Edited by spend on Saturday 11th August 18:34
Okay, after an afternoon break for the Rugby internation friendlies, I'm back on it!
Things I can see that I think are of note -
on the red connector at the back of the fuse box there is a black wire that has been clearly added to join a pink wire with black trace to a green wire with pink trace. The black wire has been soldered in and the joins covered with insulation tape - I suspect that this could be some subsequent modification work. The rest of the block seems very busy, with a white wire a red wire and a pink/purple one in on the act.
On the yellow connector at the back of the fuse box there is a green wire with red trace and a pink wire that both look past their best - the wall of the wire looks a bit blackened at the very ends and the wire itself seems a bit corroded.
any of this significant, or have I just found some new/future problems?
Things I can see that I think are of note -
on the red connector at the back of the fuse box there is a black wire that has been clearly added to join a pink wire with black trace to a green wire with pink trace. The black wire has been soldered in and the joins covered with insulation tape - I suspect that this could be some subsequent modification work. The rest of the block seems very busy, with a white wire a red wire and a pink/purple one in on the act.
On the yellow connector at the back of the fuse box there is a green wire with red trace and a pink wire that both look past their best - the wall of the wire looks a bit blackened at the very ends and the wire itself seems a bit corroded.
any of this significant, or have I just found some new/future problems?
If you trace where the 2 thick pink wires go to in the fuse box and where the green/pink (after its jiggery pokery) go to, just tell me which connector & pins and I'll be able to tell you where they come out at the front (you can check with your mm.
Unless you have crimp terminals like the fusebox ones its probably better to just pop a bit of insul tape on the iffy looking bits. The crimp terminals are not common, as well as being tricky to get in /out without breaking the connector block, and you need uninsulated crimp terminals (that doesnt mean the handles!).
BTW, I stuck a load of rubber behind my fusebox after seeing how harsh the fglass is on the cables over the years.
Dave
Unless you have crimp terminals like the fusebox ones its probably better to just pop a bit of insul tape on the iffy looking bits. The crimp terminals are not common, as well as being tricky to get in /out without breaking the connector block, and you need uninsulated crimp terminals (that doesnt mean the handles!).
BTW, I stuck a load of rubber behind my fusebox after seeing how harsh the fglass is on the cables over the years.
Dave
There are two thick pink wires going into one connector on the brown block - pin 3 label 55 on block F if I'm reading the diagram on tvr3.dspen.com correctly.
there is a pink and black wire going into pin 8 label 71 on red block G and green and pink going onto pin 6 label 88N on red block G. These have been spliced together with a black wire.
Does this shed any light?
there is a pink and black wire going into pin 8 label 71 on red block G and green and pink going onto pin 6 label 88N on red block G. These have been spliced together with a black wire.
Does this shed any light?
V8_GWA said:
There are two thick pink wires going into one connector on the brown block - pin 3 label 55 on block F if I'm reading the diagram on tvr3.dspen.com correctly.
That means at least 1 fan is fused on fuse #1 and uses the relay (#1) above the fuse in the top corner (relative to fuses on bottom)V8_GWA said:
there is a pink and black wire going into pin 8 label 71 on red block G and green and pink going onto pin 6 label 88N on red block G. These have been spliced together with a black wire.
88N is the control for the first fan relay (#1) Looks like this was the original single fan set-upHmm, G71 is the control for the relay below the first one (#7) this is a modification I am pretty sure (identical to mine
). The Power to the second fan should be coming out on E87h, it uses fuse #3. HTH, Dave
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