priming oil pump on pre serp HELP

[waggy]

,, cleared sticking relief valve (bought new valve, spring, and gaskit) and cleaned bore so that valve moves nicely up and down,, sanded face of pump to remove scores from cogs,,reassembled pump,
tried method 1 - filled oil filter to brim. then using a funnel and plastic hose filled oil pump through oil filter hole till oil run out of small mesh filter , quickly fitted oil filter,, turned engine over and no oil pressure,, started engine for 10 secs, sounded like bag of nails,, still no oil pressure , oil lamp stayed on,, spoke to offords and martin said only way is to fill with vaseline,, is there another way as i dont really want to take pump of again (gasket might break)
can you fill it from oil pressure sender hole,, has anybody any other way of doing it,,

Alex

[AntonyJ]

waggy said:

,, cleared sticking relief valve (bought new valve, spring, and gaskit) and cleaned bore so that valve moves nicely up and down,, sanded face of pump to remove scores from cogs,,reassembled pump,
tried method 1 - filled oil filter to brim. then using a funnel and plastic hose filled oil pump through oil filter hole till oil run out of small mesh filter , quickly fitted oil filter,, turned engine over and no oil pressure,, started engine for 10 secs, sounded like bag of nails,, still no oil pressure , oil lamp stayed on,, spoke to offords and martin said only way is to fill with vaseline,, is there another way as i dont really want to take pump of again (gasket might break)
can you fill it from oil pressure sender hole,, has anybody any other way of doing it,,

Alex

There is another way, you can either make or buy a priming tool.
This involves removing the dizzy, the "tool" is used in a power drill and turns the pump instead of the bottom shaft in the dizzy.

I didnt have much luck with the vaseline, so made this tool using some 10mm bar....

Sure I have seen them on fleabay.

[waggy]

i saw this method on a website,, is it difficult removing the dizzy and putting it back without altering the timing,,

[AntonyJ]

Not particularly, just mark where the dizzy is now, also remove the dizzy cap and mark where the rotor arm is.
When you pull the dizzy out the rotor arm will rotate because of the gear.
Mark where the rotor arm finishes and this is where you must start it from when replacing the dizzy.

Check the marks all line up when the dizzy is back in and you should be ok.

Ant

[waggy]

thanx , i'll try that then, i'll order a rod from v8 parts,,,

[Johno]

Remember that the rotor arm is on a bevel gear, you need to mark the bottom of the dissy to the engine, and mark the location of the rotor arm, understanding you will have to drop it in slightly to one side for it to drop in to the right place.

In's not that difficult, I had mine out last week for example . ..

[spend]

The oil pump gears are connected to the gallery behind the oil pressure relief valve piston. Pull that out & forcing oil in (funnel & head) should work better I think.

I got in a tizzy with the other methods as they dont fill the pump...

Dave

[GreenV8S]

If you have a remote filter or oil cooler [smug mode] then you can just put a T piece inline and pump oil in - it primes the pump and also sends the oil out to the rest of the engine.[/smug mode]

[waggy]

i agree but its a pain to take the pump apart again, i havent any spare gaskets,, what grease do you use
vaseline or something different (ooh'er missis). do chemists do large pots of it,,

alex

[waggy]

how do you keep a straight face asking for a large tub of petrolium jelly in the chemist

seriously, the gaskit is new so should come of ok, i just didnt fancy taking the pump cover off again for the 3rd time,, it looks like this might be my best bet,, i dont want to run the engine again without
oil pressure as it sounded terrible last time,,

cheers
Alex

[waggy]

thanx for the info,,, before i go ,, did you here about the man who got hooked on brake fluid,,






he said he could stop anytime!!!!

goodnight


MRS WAGGY YOU HAVE TO GET SOMETHING IN THE CHEMIST FOR ME TOMORROW,NO NOT THAT,VASELINE

[Bluebottle]

I once spent 4 days trying to prime my preserp, tried all the methods in the bible to no avail. eventually found the pump was sucking air in past the oil pressure sender which had a broken collar.
You can get large tubs of Petrolium jelly from most motor factors (not so embarrasing asking them as they usually turn around and say "trying to prime an oil pump are we sir?&quot.
After that experience, I would always drain the engine and part fill to cover the oil pick up tube before replacing the filter to prevent the pump sucking in air and never had a problem with the pump draining again.
Don't know if its the correct way to do it, but when i primed the pump using vas I left the filter off until the vas plug spat out followed by the oil then i put the filter on, so it didn't get gunged up with vas.

Edited by Bluebottle on Saturday 1st September 23:32

[spend]

GreenV8S said:

If you have a remote filter or oil cooler {smug mode} then you can just put a T piece inline and pump oil in - it primes the pump and also sends the oil out to the rest of the engine.{/smug mode}

Remote filter I can understand but my oil cooler hits the anti drain-back in the oil filter before it gets to the pump :-(

Dave
ETA: quotes don't seem to like your braced comments

Edited by spend on Sunday 2nd September 15:18

[GreenV8S]

spend said:

Remote filter I can understand but my oil cooler hits the anti drain-back in the oil filter before it gets to the pump :-(

Dave

Yours must be different to mine then. Mine goes pump, sandwich plate (oil cooler), filter, engine. So pumping oil into the oil cooler primes the pump and also gets oil moving round the engine.

[eliot]

Hate to say this, but personally I would of replaced the whole pump. It's likely to stick again.
As for priming, I pack it was vas as shown above and *always* use a priming stick. They are easy to make.
You may be able to use a bit of wooden dowel with a jublie clip on the end to strengthen it - have a wonder down B&Q, you will find something to cobble together. Mine is made from a length of nylon rod, with a slot in the end of it.

[waggy]

eliot said:

Hate to say this, but personally I would of replaced the whole pump. It's likely to stick again.

i copied the procedure from http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=14006&... , very informative website for RV8 engines,,sanded the cover on glass to remove swirl marks from cogs, used a dremel to polish the galley where the valve sits and used a new valve and spring (added tvr bit of bolt from old spring to increase pressure).. the guy who quoted this rebuilds these engines and does this on every engine to ensure the pump is ok, otherwise the engines wouldnt last long,,

its not that im tight but i prefer to fix it rather than replace, being a maintenace engineer its satisfaction knowing you repaired it,, my last washing machine lasted 20 years till the rust got to it,,
alex

[eliot]

waggy said:

its not that im tight but i prefer to fix it rather than replace, being a maintenace engineer its satisfaction knowing you repaired it,, my last washing machine lasted 20 years till the rust got to

And being engineering types, thats what my dad and i thought. We even turned a slight chamfer on the end of the valve to help it close and not hang up on the bore. Suffice to say, one trashed crankshaft later - i replaced the pump like i should of done in the first place. RPI sell them ~£86

[waggy]

just wondered, how did the valve get stuck again if you cleaned the bore,, did you drive long without any oil pressure to trash the crank,,

you are most likely right, but im going to try it and keep watch on the oil gauge,, i made sure there wasnt any rough spots in the bore,, any probs i'll change it,,

[spend]

GreenV8S said:

spend said:

Remote filter I can understand but my oil cooler hits the anti drain-back in the oil filter before it gets to the pump :-(

Dave

Yours must be different to mine then. Mine goes pump, sandwich plate (oil cooler), filter, engine. So pumping oil into the oil cooler primes the pump and also gets oil moving round the engine.

On second thoughts you may be dead right... I may have done the logical thing by putting oil in the wrong cooler pipe and been foiled by the thermostat - should have tried the other one (my stat seems like a bit of magical trickery...)

Dave

[GreenV8S]

spend said:

On second thoughts you may be right

The law of averages said it had to happen sooner or later!