Discussion
NB. 1992 Griff 430 pre-serp.
I'm trying to change the wiper park switch but it's tight up against the side - no room to remove it. How is the wiper motor fixed? The bracket is retained by two (odd) bolts, but even though they're loosened still no movement. I daren't undo the bolts completely because I fear the nuts are on the inside and will simply fall into oblivion.
I'm trying to change the wiper park switch but it's tight up against the side - no room to remove it. How is the wiper motor fixed? The bracket is retained by two (odd) bolts, but even though they're loosened still no movement. I daren't undo the bolts completely because I fear the nuts are on the inside and will simply fall into oblivion.
Ian, the fixing pins screw into captive nuts so they wont fall into the abyss.
However, lets hope the friction between the captive nuts and the fibreglass is greater than the friction between the thread on the pin and the thread on the nut.!
Once you have the bracket off, there is another problem.
The small pins holding the plate are look accessible, however one is under the fibreglass.
The trick is to undo the brass nut that holds the outer operating cable on and then pull the motor away with the inner cable still connected.
When this is done correctly the wipers will move on the screen so make sure they arent trapped by the bonnet on the nearside.
When you have pulled the motor away you can undo all the cover pins and go about your business.....
Ant
However, lets hope the friction between the captive nuts and the fibreglass is greater than the friction between the thread on the pin and the thread on the nut.!
Once you have the bracket off, there is another problem.
The small pins holding the plate are look accessible, however one is under the fibreglass.
The trick is to undo the brass nut that holds the outer operating cable on and then pull the motor away with the inner cable still connected.
When this is done correctly the wipers will move on the screen so make sure they arent trapped by the bonnet on the nearside.
When you have pulled the motor away you can undo all the cover pins and go about your business.....
Ant
The park switch..if you look at the new unit, has a tang that drops into a repective sqaure hole in the gearbox casing. You need to raise the body of the switch, by prising it up with a screw driver and then slide it out. To fit the new unit grease the plastic pin and tang offer into the aperture and slide into postion (you will see that the gearbox casing has a angled approach to aid it's fitting. Adrian@
I replaced my park switch at the weekend: I have to say that contary to common opinion on here, that this is starightforward and and easy fix - I found it to be a real awkward sod of a job - another myth busted 
The 10 mm nuts fixing the holding down strap came off easily, allowing the motor to be pivoted up by about 45 deg, to reveal the switch on the bottom. I used a long fine flat bladed screw driver to prise the old switch from the base of the motor, leaving the tang behind in the recess in the motor, in the process. Plyers and the screwdriver allowed me to eventually retrive this, and then the real fun started trying to fix the new switch (using the new tang supplied with the switch), to the base of the motor. One of those aspects of a job thats done in minutes if you've done it a few times before - let the experts do it or be prepared to spend an hour or more if you must do it yorself.
The 10 mm nuts fixing the holding down strap came off easily, allowing the motor to be pivoted up by about 45 deg, to reveal the switch on the bottom. I used a long fine flat bladed screw driver to prise the old switch from the base of the motor, leaving the tang behind in the recess in the motor, in the process. Plyers and the screwdriver allowed me to eventually retrive this, and then the real fun started trying to fix the new switch (using the new tang supplied with the switch), to the base of the motor. One of those aspects of a job thats done in minutes if you've done it a few times before - let the experts do it or be prepared to spend an hour or more if you must do it yorself. An hour's no problem at all - it's the procedure that's not clear to me. There are two sticking points for me:
I'd assume once it's apart in my hand there'd be a certain amount of forehead slapping and a chorus of d'ohs, but until that time I haven't a bleedin' clue.
- the sprung/knob part of the switch
- the metal clip
I'd assume once it's apart in my hand there'd be a certain amount of forehead slapping and a chorus of d'ohs, but until that time I haven't a bleedin' clue.
IMHO, its easier if you pop the gear box cover off, cable gland and remove the linkage. Then you can extract the motor complete (give it a free inspection clean & re-grease whilst your at it) Removing the connector from the park switch was the hardest thing I found - it had rusted in, so had to replace the latched blade terminals. Fitting the park switch will be a lot easier on the bench if you have not done it before. You will also get to see a little more of the machinations of your car
Dave
Dave
Lordie - for me if you are about to take the car along to your TVR Expert anyway then let him do this job for you - save your sanity. However if you
believe what you read on here - 'its dead easy mate just un-do two bolts, pull off the old switch, unplug the terminal-comnnections, remake and push the swich back onto the motor' then you'll wish you had,nt started! Its an akward little bugger of a job - but if you are the sort of guy who likes rubicks cubes and such like, then I'll elaborate for you.
Assuming you have a replacement switch c/w clip and the motor turned up to the heavens at roughly a 45 deg angle, pull off the main multi connector and simply prize a sharp screwdriver between the body of the wiper motor and the body of the switch. If you destroy the switch, (and I doubt you will - its tough), it does,nt matter. You should find that the switch body as detached itself from the steel clip which fixes the switch to the bottom of the motor, in the first of the two larger orifices there. This will either now fall out of the motor, (in anycase st aside), or you will have to poke it out with something or other. Do not yet disconnect the orginal switch from the three individual spade connections - use the old switch as prop for the motor, this will allow you to do the job with only three hands. Now you will think how in God's Earth do I get this clip to 'clip' onto he edge of that orifice, there - it should slide on - but this plunger bit, which goes up into the second large orifice, (to do whatever a plunger does, there), is sticking up and it won,nt allow me to slide the clip close enough to the body of the motor to allow it to catch it's orifice and engage! The clip locates in the switch via a pair of runners cut into the body of the switch, ease the clip backwards out of the switch a little, use your plyers to strech it open a smidge and then offer it up and with your trusty long thin screwdriver, push the clip along its runners and hook it onto the edge of the aforementioned orifice. withdrawing the screw driver slightly and then giving it a final stab for it to completely engage and secure the switch. And that is all thre is to it. Ensure you have a torch, (your third hand is useful for this), as it's quite gloomly under there. Good Luck.
believe what you read on here - 'its dead easy mate just un-do two bolts, pull off the old switch, unplug the terminal-comnnections, remake and push the swich back onto the motor' then you'll wish you had,nt started! Its an akward little bugger of a job - but if you are the sort of guy who likes rubicks cubes and such like, then I'll elaborate for you.
Assuming you have a replacement switch c/w clip and the motor turned up to the heavens at roughly a 45 deg angle, pull off the main multi connector and simply prize a sharp screwdriver between the body of the wiper motor and the body of the switch. If you destroy the switch, (and I doubt you will - its tough), it does,nt matter. You should find that the switch body as detached itself from the steel clip which fixes the switch to the bottom of the motor, in the first of the two larger orifices there. This will either now fall out of the motor, (in anycase st aside), or you will have to poke it out with something or other. Do not yet disconnect the orginal switch from the three individual spade connections - use the old switch as prop for the motor, this will allow you to do the job with only three hands. Now you will think how in God's Earth do I get this clip to 'clip' onto he edge of that orifice, there - it should slide on - but this plunger bit, which goes up into the second large orifice, (to do whatever a plunger does, there), is sticking up and it won,nt allow me to slide the clip close enough to the body of the motor to allow it to catch it's orifice and engage! The clip locates in the switch via a pair of runners cut into the body of the switch, ease the clip backwards out of the switch a little, use your plyers to strech it open a smidge and then offer it up and with your trusty long thin screwdriver, push the clip along its runners and hook it onto the edge of the aforementioned orifice. withdrawing the screw driver slightly and then giving it a final stab for it to completely engage and secure the switch. And that is all thre is to it. Ensure you have a torch, (your third hand is useful for this), as it's quite gloomly under there. Good Luck.
Note....IF you are fitting the park switch whilst the the motor is still fitted to the car, then you must set the wipers to the upright postion on the screen by operating the wipers and turning the igntion off (leaving them upright) prior to starting to swop the switch, so that the cam that operates the park switch is out of postion then the new switch can slide in postion freely. Adrian@
Edited by Adrian@ on Monday 8th October 16:37
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