Non body off chassis restoration
Discussion
Right then, I've got my stiff wire brush at the ready and will be embarking on a chassis scrub down this weekend.
Anybody like to share their experience/expertise on this ?
I intend to safely jack the car up one corner at a time, remove wheel and get to work with the brush before applying a suitable coating to the metal work.
The body will not be coming off for this excercise.
As Dumbo said, I'm all ears. (or should that be eyes?)
Cheers
Lazy
Anybody like to share their experience/expertise on this ?
I intend to safely jack the car up one corner at a time, remove wheel and get to work with the brush before applying a suitable coating to the metal work.
The body will not be coming off for this excercise.
As Dumbo said, I'm all ears. (or should that be eyes?)
Cheers
Lazy
Right, just found this thread..
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
I'd still welcome some additional tips.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
I'd still welcome some additional tips.
A couple of 1” paint scrappers, bend one to the radius of the out riggers & any other pointy/scrappy things you can think of..
Small paint brush with the longest bristles you can get
Spray can of hammerite (see if you can find a nozzle that fits with a short straw like WD40 block the end & put a split in it
A piece of wire bent to the correct radius wrapped/wound in cloth/pipe cleaner to get as much rust remedy/paint on top of the outriggers as possible.. (after you’ve emptied the can of hammerite..)
Buy 4 axle stand
Small paint brush with the longest bristles you can get
Spray can of hammerite (see if you can find a nozzle that fits with a short straw like WD40 block the end & put a split in it
A piece of wire bent to the correct radius wrapped/wound in cloth/pipe cleaner to get as much rust remedy/paint on top of the outriggers as possible.. (after you’ve emptied the can of hammerite..)
Buy 4 axle stand
Make your own ramps out of 8x2 planks to drive up on - you dont have to take the wheels off to get at most of the chassis.
Paint pads bent round are useful to paint the tops of the outriggers.
Its a long job (add messy, dirty, awkward...) to do it properly, best to break it down into sections and do it bit by bit IMHO.
You have to remove manifolds to get at some of the front chassis, diff, exhaust & propshaft to get at some of the upper rails. Not sure if you are wanting to go that deep.
I would concentrate on making sure the main chassis is good, in worst cases the outriggers can be replaced, but if the main rails are rotten...
Unfortunately its all the out of sight parts that can be the problem IMHO.
Dave
Paint pads bent round are useful to paint the tops of the outriggers.
Its a long job (add messy, dirty, awkward...) to do it properly, best to break it down into sections and do it bit by bit IMHO.
You have to remove manifolds to get at some of the front chassis, diff, exhaust & propshaft to get at some of the upper rails. Not sure if you are wanting to go that deep.
I would concentrate on making sure the main chassis is good, in worst cases the outriggers can be replaced, but if the main rails are rotten...
Unfortunately its all the out of sight parts that can be the problem IMHO.
Dave
Get yourself the loan of a set of rollers, drain all fluids and put it up on its side - then work away to your heart's delight.
I used to use this method when restoring 60s & 70s classics such as E-types, Healeys, TRs, Alfas, etc.
Makes a big difference when you don't have to lie on your back and don't get everything falling in your face too.
OscarT
PS It's still not a substitute for getting the body off the chassis though.
I used to use this method when restoring 60s & 70s classics such as E-types, Healeys, TRs, Alfas, etc.
Makes a big difference when you don't have to lie on your back and don't get everything falling in your face too.
OscarT
PS It's still not a substitute for getting the body off the chassis though.
Edited by OscarT on Thursday 18th October 15:13
The Griffalo said:
Newspaper and masking tape to protect the body/arches helps make the job easier. White spirit if there's any Waxoyl to get off and invest in some disposable latex gloves... Not necessarily for doing the job, but for having kinky sex with the missus after you've finished
The Griffalo said:
Newspaper and masking tape to protect the body/arches helps make the job easier. White spirit if there's any Waxoyl to get off and invest in some disposable latex gloves... Not necessarily for doing the job, but for having kinky sex with the missus after you've finished
Good.
Not sure how to go about this for the best. I'll probably give you a call tomorrow.
It'll take more than a weekend!
I thought it'd take a weekend but it took three months...
If you do it body/suspension on then you have to devise ingenious ways of reaching hard to get to areas - behind chassis tube joins, triangulation plates, on top of outriggers etc.
I'd start by pressure washing the chassis - mask and/or cling film engine electronics, fuel pump etc.
Then if waxoyl needs to be removed white spirit and plenty of rags are called for.
Now you can start de-rusting. I used wire brushes in a drill where possible, bent and broken screwdrivers elsewhere. It's really back (and wrist) breaking work, but you've got to do it thoroughly or it's not worth doing at all. If you don't clear the rust and crud from the hidden tucked away areas, that's where the hammerite/primer/POR - whatever will not give protection and where the water will get in - however neat the rest of the chassis.IMHO wire brushes and scrapers are all you need. Some people use sandpaper too, particularly on top of the outriggers (passing a strip of paper over the top and 'flossing').
Then you need to degrease everything before painting.
What do you paint with? Well that question always stimulates debate!! Suffice it to say that a good coat of something rust-proofing, followed by stone guard in the stone-chip prone areas and waxoyl everywhere else would be a good approach.
Good luck...
Oh and wear a dust mask and goggles, however annoying. I speak from experience!
I thought it'd take a weekend but it took three months...
If you do it body/suspension on then you have to devise ingenious ways of reaching hard to get to areas - behind chassis tube joins, triangulation plates, on top of outriggers etc.
I'd start by pressure washing the chassis - mask and/or cling film engine electronics, fuel pump etc.
Then if waxoyl needs to be removed white spirit and plenty of rags are called for.
Now you can start de-rusting. I used wire brushes in a drill where possible, bent and broken screwdrivers elsewhere. It's really back (and wrist) breaking work, but you've got to do it thoroughly or it's not worth doing at all. If you don't clear the rust and crud from the hidden tucked away areas, that's where the hammerite/primer/POR - whatever will not give protection and where the water will get in - however neat the rest of the chassis.IMHO wire brushes and scrapers are all you need. Some people use sandpaper too, particularly on top of the outriggers (passing a strip of paper over the top and 'flossing').
Then you need to degrease everything before painting.
What do you paint with? Well that question always stimulates debate!! Suffice it to say that a good coat of something rust-proofing, followed by stone guard in the stone-chip prone areas and waxoyl everywhere else would be a good approach.
Good luck...
Oh and wear a dust mask and goggles, however annoying. I speak from experience!
Gassing Station | Griffith | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff