Clutch master cylindar replacement

[virgil]

Ok, so I knew the clutch was a little 'spongy' and nearing the end of it's travel before it did anything, but my friendly fix specialist was busy until Jan...so it was going to be OK til then right???

Err, no - no clutch action last night so stranded on drive now.

Not dug the SH bible out yet, btu anyone got any idea how easy it is to change a clutch master cyl on a griff 500 serp? Happy to change pipe etc if easier than struggling to undo rusted nuts etc.

Also is there only one master type, pedal and pipe thread??? Please tell me they only ever used one type!!!

Thanks,

Stranded Virgil.

[OctaneBooster]

Apologies if this is obvious, but are you sure the problem is not lack of fluid? Mine has been weeping for ages, but as long as I keep it topped up, it stays working.

[virgil]

OctaneBooster said:

Apologies if this is obvious, but are you sure the problem is not lack of fluid? Mine has been weeping for ages, but as long as I keep it topped up, it stays working.

You are right...absolutely a lack of fluid...I guess that will be the easy and cheap stop gap.

Top up and bleed from inside the car, or cut out a sealed panel from engine bay?

Cheers...Virgil.

[V8 GRF]

You need to bleed from the panel in the engine bay as you can't get at the cylinder any other way. The panel is fixed by screws as well as sealent so be aware of that when you remove it.

[virgil]

Every silver lining has a cloud eh?

Cheers though...job for Saturday though

[Seasider]

virgil said:

Every silver lining has a cloud eh?

Cheers though...job for Saturday though

Let me know if you need a hand

[spend]

I'd check where the fluid is leaking from first..

Many advise that its easier just to do the master cylinder seal rather than wrestling to replace the complete cylinder.

You can replace the cover sealant with a reusable seal if you so wish. Clean the sealant off and stick strips of closed cell foam to make a gasket on the wing recess, then use sealant around the outside of the foam. Apply a little vaseline to the mating surface and screw down the cover. Mine has been watertight for 2 years with this modification

Dave

[Seasider]

Also check the pipe mine had a tiny hole were it had been rubbing on something, this made it look like the Slave had gone (fluid running down the pipe to slave) only found out after i'd replaced the slave

[virgil]

Seasider said:

virgil said:

Every silver lining has a cloud eh?

Cheers though...job for Saturday though

Let me know if you need a hand

LIsten out for loud swearing as I may need to take you up on that! Beers (or coffee at least would be on hand)

Cheers mate.

[virgil]

Noted to the last two bits of advice...

Had a report of a weeping master at the last service so hoping it is just that, and the slave is OK.

Will order a new bit anyway...never know when I get bored and fancy changing it...not

Neil.

[DarkMatter]

It is, just, possible to replace the clutch master cylinder seal from inside the car - a lot easier than removing the master cylinder. I did it recently, it took no more than a couple of hours and cost me about £12 for the cylinder repair kit.

[fastandcurious]

My new master cylinder was only about £40 plus vat from TVR. Two hours to change the whole thing. Not to bad a job. Had to get the missus to hold the spanner on the outside while I tightened the nuts from the inside though. Bleeding it was easy.

Edited by fastandcurious on Thursday 22 November 20:27

[Pasco]

fastandcurious said:

My new master cylinder was only about £40 plus vat from TVR. Two hours to change the whole thing. Not to bad a job. Had to get the missus to hold the spanner on the outside while I tightened the nuts from the inside though. Bleeding it was easy.

Edited by fastandcurious on Thursday 22 November 20:27

O/T How's thing's Craig ? Say hello to your good lady

[fastandcurious]

Pasco said:

fastandcurious said:

My new master cylinder was only about £40 plus vat from TVR. Two hours to change the whole thing. Not to bad a job. Had to get the missus to hold the spanner on the outside while I tightened the nuts from the inside though. Bleeding it was easy.

Edited by fastandcurious on Thursday 22 November 20:27

O/T How's thing's Craig ? Say hello to your good lady

Hi Paul.We're both fine. Hope you and Rachel are both well. How's your car? Done any more to it lately? Ive noticed several people talking about selling their Griffs. I put it down to the weather. As soon as it improves they'll want to keep them. I can't believe I've had mine nearly a year now!!!!

[red griff roger]

Just replaced mine. Symptom was loss of fluid (first noticed when clutch action got progressively more crunchy - see above). Easy remedy is regular check and top up, but not a long term fix. In my view, things like this on cars always, always get worse, not better. Furthermore, if the cylinder is weeping, the fluid will be trickling down into your footwell. Brake/clutch fluid is nasty stuff on paint, carpets, feet.

Replacing the clutch cylinder was reasonably straightforward, but a bit of a fiddle. Make sure you source from a TVR parts supplier (mine from Racetech TVR, about £50 + Gordon's cut). See also the bible about thread for hydraulic pipe nut, and length of piston rod.

I disconnected from the clutch pedal by undoing the locking nut on the piston rod (rather than cutting out the clevis pin). Loosen the locking nut and unscrew. Note the positioning by taking a measure of where the retaining nut is located. Carefully undo the hydraulic pipe nut, but leave in place for now. This is because (a) it is hard to bend and (b) it will re-locate better. Fiddly bit is undoing the two bolts holding the cylinder to the bulkhead. Take out the top one (easy). The bottom one is the bummer. I held the bolt in place by carefully manoevering in a 1/4" drive with extension over the bolt head (you can get fingers in to feel this), clipped on the ratchet, and held the ratchet (now sticking up from the well, behind the cylinder, if you can see what I mean) in place with bits of rag. If you have a friend/wife/lover to help, this will be easier. Also, make sure you set the ratchet to undo, otherwise you have to do this twice, like I did. Then the nut can be undone from the footwell. Carefully drop the cylinder to release the hydraulic pipe, and lift out.

See the bible about hydraulic pipe threads and length of piston rod. I checked the thread by screwing the plastic blank into the old cylinder, lucky me, perfect. The piston rod on the new part was too long, but this is easy to swap with the old one.

Replacing is pretty much the reverse. Gently position the new cylinder and hold losely in place with the top bolt and nut. Only screw the nut on a few turns to stop it all falling out for now. Screw in the hydraulic pipe using your fingers - this helps to make sure you don't cross thread. Then do the top bolt up some more to position. The lower bolt I stuck to the scoket with some masking tape, and slotted into the hole. More rags to hold in place, then tighten the nut inside. Check the hydraulic pipe is tight, and tighten the two retaining blots. Reconnect the piston rod (making sure the clutch travel is right for you), and bleed.

Have fun!

Edited by red griff roger on Friday 23 November 08:49

[virgil]

Well, refilled the master cylindar and bled with one of those pressurised easy bleed things (best £15 quid I've ever spent) and working fine again now. Just have to keep an eye on the level until it warms up a bit and I can spen long enough wrestling a new one in place!

Cheers for the advice, all.

Neil.