Are Griff driving lamps switchable?

[Pupp]

I assume they are interlocked with the main beam, but do they have a separate switched circuit?

Just asking as my Chim might be growing some extra lamps (incoming from the purists... )

[Simpo Two]

You're going to make your car look more like a Griffith? Commendable

[spend]

No switches, you go out, top up the wax, tweak the wick out & light them up I believe..

[Pupp]

spend said:

No switches, you go out, top up the wax, tweak the wick out & light them up I believe..

And pee in them when the water for the acetelene tabs runs out?

[Pupp]

Simpo Two said:

You're going to make your car look more like a Griffith? Commendable

I guess. If one could be made to look like a Chimaera with additional lights

[Simpo Two]

Pupp said:

I guess. If one could be made to look like a Chimaera with additional lights

A four-pack of Cibie Oscars would do the job... and make it look less like an MG

[Uncle Fester]

Swap the original dips for the later 7" off the last 100 Griff's but with a HID kit fitted.

Having relocated the main beams to the pods, you can now put something in the vacant holes.

Ciebe do one unit called HID Bi-Oscar. Thats not the name of a Chimp who bats for both teams.

It's a single unit that looks like the standard Griff light, but has both fog and driving lamps in the unit.

[Pupp]

Cheers for the suggestions but I have the lamps (Hella like the rest of the units) and they are just about ready to drop on the car... fit nicely in the top half of the aperture and are the right shape to match the lines opf the opening so don't look too 'aftermarket'. Just need to know whether a separete switch (and tell tale warning light) are necessary when they interlock with main beam only?

[spend]

I wired mine to a new relay, and switch next to the dash light switch. But I preferred to have them as aux driving lights.

Dave

[TheGriffalo]

Griff low beam is always on when the lights are on, the main beam circuit is an additional feed. That being the case you can take the low beam, connect it to the common pole of a five pin relay and use the main beam as the switching feed. N/O goes to your low beam lamps and the switched output goes to your main beam lamps.

[Pupp]

nah, nowt like an MX5

[Argent]

Point of note......I have just rewired all the lighting on my Griff 500 taking a supply from the starter motor and earthing to the chassis using one of the bolts at the header tank. (As David Beer points out in the original loom the o/s supply to the lights piggy backs on the n/s supply and is inadequate, ditto the earthing in my view.) Everything is now on relays and the original loom wiring is only used for switching the relays. With the correct thickness of cable, a proper supply/earth and xenon bulbs the differnce is amazing.

A.

[TheGriffalo]

Argent said:

Point of note......I have just rewired all the lighting on my Griff 500 taking a supply from the starter motor and earthing to the chassis using one of the bolts at the header tank. (As David Beer points out in the original loom the o/s supply to the lights piggy backs on the n/s supply and is inadequate, ditto the earthing in my view.) Everything is now on relays and the original loom wiring is only used for switching the relays. With the correct thickness of cable, a proper supply/earth and xenon bulbs the differnce is amazing.

A.

How did you run the supplies to the relays? Have you run a single cable and fed them in parallel?

Got any pics as I'm just about to wire mine up to the new Sportmotive units.

[Argent]

Exactly.....what I did was bring one thick supply cable to the front and then split four ways (solder jointed) to each relay with thinner cable, (I used one fused relay per unit but you could put each pair on a relay if high enough rating). With the earth return the same thing, a cable from each unit to one thick cable back to the chassis......all neatly cable tied in of course.

(Sorry no pics at the moment)

A

Edited by Argent on Wednesday 20th February 10:29