Carbon Dash for £30
Discussion
Well, I finally got round to doing this job; my original veneer had cracked and I never considered it complementary to a black car with grey interior anyway. So, off it came and I prepared the bare panels.
Then, for £30ish I obtained:
1 x sheet of 3M Carbon Fibre (1000mm by 300mm by 0.8mm) from
e.bay (£25)
3 x 400 mil cans of Hycote Acrylic Lacquer (£1.45 each).
The self adhesive backing to the CF sheet didn't inspire me with its bonding ability so I removed that with some meth's and used Evostick 528. This gives good bond strength and is tolerant of temperatures to a certain degree.
I'd made up some test pieces and tried out three different brands of acrylic lacquer: Carplan, Tetrosyl and Hycote. Despite the first two proclaiming a crystal clear finish, I found the Hycote to produce the most transparent coat; it also seemed less prone to encapsulating tiny air bubbles and was the least noxious (after testing on 'Digit' (the cat)).
After leaving the panels for a few days to harden, I set about polishing, starting with a 1500 grade wet 'n' dry, thru a scratch removing compound and finishing with Farecla G10.
Before I cobble everything together and install the panels in the car, I'll allow a few more days of hardening. If I don't f**k it all up during those stages I'll post the shots.
My only concern at this time is that the Acrylic Lacquer may not have the scratch resisting properties of other materials. I did have thought to getting it done in a Polyurethane; either way, time will tell; the test pieces seem to be hardening up.

Then, for £30ish I obtained:
1 x sheet of 3M Carbon Fibre (1000mm by 300mm by 0.8mm) from
e.bay (£25)
3 x 400 mil cans of Hycote Acrylic Lacquer (£1.45 each).
The self adhesive backing to the CF sheet didn't inspire me with its bonding ability so I removed that with some meth's and used Evostick 528. This gives good bond strength and is tolerant of temperatures to a certain degree.
I'd made up some test pieces and tried out three different brands of acrylic lacquer: Carplan, Tetrosyl and Hycote. Despite the first two proclaiming a crystal clear finish, I found the Hycote to produce the most transparent coat; it also seemed less prone to encapsulating tiny air bubbles and was the least noxious (after testing on 'Digit' (the cat)).
After leaving the panels for a few days to harden, I set about polishing, starting with a 1500 grade wet 'n' dry, thru a scratch removing compound and finishing with Farecla G10.
Before I cobble everything together and install the panels in the car, I'll allow a few more days of hardening. If I don't f**k it all up during those stages I'll post the shots.
My only concern at this time is that the Acrylic Lacquer may not have the scratch resisting properties of other materials. I did have thought to getting it done in a Polyurethane; either way, time will tell; the test pieces seem to be hardening up.

I lacquered it because I like the look I've seen in some of the high-end sports cars: a high gloss and smooth finish. The bare sheet has a dull satin sheen and an undulating rubbery texture; I wanted to avoid that in the finished article.
I'm not expecting the acrylic lacquer to crack; hopefully time will prove me right.

I'm not expecting the acrylic lacquer to crack; hopefully time will prove me right.

Edited by 2Munkys on Thursday 21st February 15:44
spend said:
Whats the cost difference to do it with real carbon fibre? I didn't think it was that much more expensive, if you used a few layers and bonded it to the existing metal rather than a solid sheet to replace the whole lot.
Dave
As far as I'm aware, and I havn't been duped, it is the real thing Dave; the invoice certainly suggests so and you can see minor irregularities within the weave. I guess its flexibility comes from the type of matrix used; it's only 0.8mm thick too. I didn't need anything structural; that comes from the original backing panels. It's certainly not a vinyl; I've seen that. Dave

The depth of lacquer refracts the light and gives it a kind of irridescence that you just can't portray in a digital shot.
Thanks BB; I may be approaching you for some of those turned aluminium button surrounds I think I saw in the Griffith Pages some time ago.
Anyway, if I'm satisfied its up to my clumsiness, I'll get the things installed over the weekend and post them here.
2Munkys said:
As far as I'm aware, and I havn't been duped, it is the real thing Dave; the invoice certainly suggests so and you can see minor irregularities within the weave. I guess its flexibility comes from the type of matrix used; it's only 0.8mm thick too. I didn't need anything structural; that comes from the original backing panels. It's certainly not a vinyl; I've seen that. 
I wasn't clear since you said it was flexible, and trying to imagine why it would need to be lacquered 
I think if you are only using it cosmetically, a sheet laminate of common fg just laid up with an outer layer of CF should have the appearance of solid CF, but at a fraction of the cost. Sure I have seen these for sale in the past
AFIK the expensive stuff just has more layers of CF... which is what a few people in the past have done and dispensed with the metal altogether.Dave
TBH Quinny I think the alternative is easier... I went through the pain making my own custom metal dash - with hacksaw, holesaw, punches and files - very painstaking, having it lasered/jetted would be better. I understand solid CF is easier to work with, but its still pretty sphincter popping when most of the cost is under your drill/saw/file/knife/whatever!! The idea of using real carbon fibre laminate bonded to the existing metal backing as a template seems an excellent option to me. I had no problem sticking a sheet of this over my metal backing, and it only cost me @£35 a few years ago (so assume it is a tad cheaper now), and was quite easy to trim to shape (albeit a lengthy procedure).
Dave
Dave
Quinny said:
spend said:
AFIK the expensive stuff just has more layers of CF... which is what a few people in the past have done and dispensed with the metal altogether.
Dave
This is my planDave
Get some 2.0mm or 2.5mm and do away with the metal dash altogether.Then I can alter the layout to suit as well.
- Max-Power to some maybe but a useful addition to those who do a bit of engine tinkering etc. The starter is live without the ignition being 'on' allowing the motor to be turned without introducing fuel or sparks.
Quinny said:
Trouble with that, is that you're then stuck with the standard layout, which I want to change
You Obviously didn't have access to CNC machine centres

I've already programmed about 10 different layouts, just can't decide which one I prefer.
Knowing me I'll probably end up back at the first one I did, which includes moving the vents, an extra gauge (Oil temp) and a few extra Led warning lights (fans on)
Once I decide all I need to do is screw a piece of CF to a sacraficial board and press the button.
Thats the plan anyway

Nice idea Quinny is there any chance we could see some of your designs for a different layout please fella.
You Obviously didn't have access to CNC machine centres


I've already programmed about 10 different layouts, just can't decide which one I prefer.
Knowing me I'll probably end up back at the first one I did, which includes moving the vents, an extra gauge (Oil temp) and a few extra Led warning lights (fans on)
Once I decide all I need to do is screw a piece of CF to a sacraficial board and press the button.
Thats the plan anyway

BTW Is the lift in place and are you happy with it ?

EDIT to add Nice job Bruce
Edited by Pasco on Friday 22 February 10:04
Quinny said:
Ohhh the lift is in place alright. Over the moon with it.
I'm actually waiting for a sparky mate of mine to come down and re-do all the wiring and fit all new light fittings, it'll be like bloody Blackpool in there when he's finished

He's due anytime now
Not sure how I can get the layouts up as they're in CAD CAM package right now. All I ever do with it is send it to the machines and run the programs. I've never done anything else.
I'll have a word with our IT people and see if the files can be converted to PDF or somthing.
The laptop belongs to work and is at the office right now, but I'l see what I can do on Monday
Cheers mate i am sure i will not be the only interested party I'm actually waiting for a sparky mate of mine to come down and re-do all the wiring and fit all new light fittings, it'll be like bloody Blackpool in there when he's finished


He's due anytime now

Not sure how I can get the layouts up as they're in CAD CAM package right now. All I ever do with it is send it to the machines and run the programs. I've never done anything else.
I'll have a word with our IT people and see if the files can be converted to PDF or somthing.
The laptop belongs to work and is at the office right now, but I'l see what I can do on Monday

As for the lift i see this as an opportunity to store the Griff above the DB9 in a couple of years time

When I did my dash in CF, I bought it from the following
http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk
Top guys, very helpful
I used a real CF veneer - about 1mm thick - glued to a plywood template
The CF is very shiny and very hard to cut !!
They also made the heater control panel for me out of 3mm CF.
I sent the old one as a template and they machined a new one exactly the right shape with the relevant holes cut out
Total cost was about £80
Also took the opportunity to alter the layout and fit new switches
cheers Andy
http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk
Top guys, very helpful
I used a real CF veneer - about 1mm thick - glued to a plywood template
The CF is very shiny and very hard to cut !!
They also made the heater control panel for me out of 3mm CF.
I sent the old one as a template and they machined a new one exactly the right shape with the relevant holes cut out
Total cost was about £80
Also took the opportunity to alter the layout and fit new switches
cheers Andy
andyy said:
When I did my dash in CF, I bought it from the following
http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk
Top guys, very helpful
I used a real CF veneer - about 1mm thick - glued to a plywood template
The CF is very shiny and very hard to cut !!
They also made the heater control panel for me out of 3mm CF.
I sent the old one as a template and they machined a new one exactly the right shape with the relevant holes cut out
Total cost was about £80
Also took the opportunity to alter the layout and fit new switches
cheers Andy
Can't argue with that!http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk
Top guys, very helpful
I used a real CF veneer - about 1mm thick - glued to a plywood template
The CF is very shiny and very hard to cut !!
They also made the heater control panel for me out of 3mm CF.
I sent the old one as a template and they machined a new one exactly the right shape with the relevant holes cut out
Total cost was about £80
Also took the opportunity to alter the layout and fit new switches
cheers Andy
Simpo Two said:
2Munkys said:
I lacquered it because I like the look I've seen in some of the high-end sports cars: a high gloss and smooth finish. The bare sheet has a dull satin sheen and an undulating rubbery texture
I'm pretty sure carbon fibre doesn't have a rubbery texture...

Dave
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