Discussion
Big job ?
I need to replace mine (apparently) and wondered how difficult it would be for one inexperienced bloke to do this.
Anybody done this at home or is it best left to the proper spanner people ?
And just out of interest, what is the worst thing that can happen if the current mounts fail ?
Ta
Lazy
I need to replace mine (apparently) and wondered how difficult it would be for one inexperienced bloke to do this.
Anybody done this at home or is it best left to the proper spanner people ?
And just out of interest, what is the worst thing that can happen if the current mounts fail ?
Ta
Lazy
Depends which side fails but you don’t really want it to happen, whirling bits tend to come in contact with stationary bits and make grinding noises.
Haven’t changed a set myself with the engine in but had a gander last week whilst under the car and it looks straight forward but really does need a 17mm ratchet spanner. Think the general method is wheel off, jack under the engine and access the mount fixings from under the wheel arch. If you have a lift it would be a lot easier.
Let us know how you get on because I need to do mine and my lift has gone on holiday. Was going to do them the weekend but couldn’t find a single 17mm spanner that was any good and don’t want to buy a set for £60.
Haven’t changed a set myself with the engine in but had a gander last week whilst under the car and it looks straight forward but really does need a 17mm ratchet spanner. Think the general method is wheel off, jack under the engine and access the mount fixings from under the wheel arch. If you have a lift it would be a lot easier.
Let us know how you get on because I need to do mine and my lift has gone on holiday. Was going to do them the weekend but couldn’t find a single 17mm spanner that was any good and don’t want to buy a set for £60.
There not that bad to change, you could also get a set of brackets from scpower while your doing the job, these are a metal bracket sits around the engine mount reduces vertical movement and should a mount fail the bracket will support the engine.
To do you will need to get the front of the car up on axel stands, and the front wheels off, place a trolly jack under the sump whith a large block off wood to spread the load. Then just replace the mount one at a time, you may find you have to move the jack around a little, make shure you note which way the mounts came out and on driver side there is a spacer this needs to go back in aswell.
To do you will need to get the front of the car up on axel stands, and the front wheels off, place a trolly jack under the sump whith a large block off wood to spread the load. Then just replace the mount one at a time, you may find you have to move the jack around a little, make shure you note which way the mounts came out and on driver side there is a spacer this needs to go back in aswell.
Ramps leave you with more access than axle stands 
even if they are just a series of planks 
I would be very careful using the sump to bear the weight of the engine, try to support it at the front under the pulley or on the sump flange (or you may find you have leaky sump problems..).
Just do one side at a time, I suspected it would be easier to remove the engine bracket (which IIRC Baretti confirmed) - but it is possible to just replace the mount with a fair bit of juggling into position (persevere it seems to be a bit of a fiddle but it does twist/turn into/out of position).
Dave
even if they are just a series of planks I would be very careful using the sump to bear the weight of the engine, try to support it at the front under the pulley or on the sump flange (or you may find you have leaky sump problems..).
Just do one side at a time, I suspected it would be easier to remove the engine bracket (which IIRC Baretti confirmed) - but it is possible to just replace the mount with a fair bit of juggling into position (persevere it seems to be a bit of a fiddle but it does twist/turn into/out of position).
Dave
lazy said:
Big job ?
I need to replace mine (apparently) and wondered how difficult it would be for one inexperienced bloke to do this.
Anybody done this at home or is it best left to the proper spanner people ?
And just out of interest, what is the worst thing that can happen if the current mounts fail ?
Ta
Lazy
JonI need to replace mine (apparently) and wondered how difficult it would be for one inexperienced bloke to do this.
Anybody done this at home or is it best left to the proper spanner people ?
And just out of interest, what is the worst thing that can happen if the current mounts fail ?
Ta
Lazy
One of the jobs I've done on mine this winter. Not that bad but a little fidley, although as you may have guessed I spent more time making sure I didn't mark any paintwork than actually getting on with the job.
Colin.
lazy said:
Big job ?
I need to replace mine (apparently) and wondered how difficult it would be for one inexperienced bloke to do this.
Anybody done this at home or is it best left to the proper spanner people ?
And just out of interest, what is the worst thing that can happen if the current mounts fail ?
Ta
Lazy
Something about the serp belt throwing and potentially amputating the neck of the swirl pot...I need to replace mine (apparently) and wondered how difficult it would be for one inexperienced bloke to do this.
Anybody done this at home or is it best left to the proper spanner people ?
And just out of interest, what is the worst thing that can happen if the current mounts fail ?
Ta
Lazy
It’s just become apparent to me that mine need replacing.
I ordered a new pair yesterday and they should be waiting for me when I get home tonight. A few people seem to have done it OK with the engine in so I’ll give a go this weekend after a trip to Halfords for a 17mm ratchet spanner.
I’ll take some pictures and let you know next week how I get on.
Cheers,
Simon.
I ordered a new pair yesterday and they should be waiting for me when I get home tonight. A few people seem to have done it OK with the engine in so I’ll give a go this weekend after a trip to Halfords for a 17mm ratchet spanner.
I’ll take some pictures and let you know next week how I get on.
Cheers,
Simon.
I successfully changed the engine mounts at the weekend and have gained back the clearance between the TVR heat shield and the steering pump top pulley.
After reading threads on here, I bought a set of ratchet spanners which I did use a bit but didn’t actually need. I removed the engine block brackets with the mounts still attached, as the lower nut on each mount block was too close the bracket and the spanners would not go on. This didn’t matter as the brackets were looking tatty so I treated them to a good clean and a coat of silver Hammerite.
Car up on axle stands, wheels off and trolley jack under the sump with a 2” thick block of wood with 1” thick piece of high density foam to level it off. All access was from the wheel arches both side, with the exception of the 100 amp fuse holder which was removed first from the drivers side mount bracket (don’t forget one side of this is live).
My problem was the smaller 13mm bolt, the top of the three on the bracket to the block. Drivers side I could get a spanner on (new ratchet), but passenger side there is lump of aluminium in the way (part of the block casting that hasn’t been machined off and access from below on this side is also blocked by the exhaust). To remove and refit this bolt I used a 3/8 drive socket with a jointed coupling on a long extension to get through the gap between the top chassis rail and the exhaust manifold, a 1/2 drive is too big. I removed the two chassis side bolts into the mounts first and then adjusted the height of the engine on the jack to line up this bolt with the gap.
The other two bracket bolts came out with standard 1/2 U/J drive and extension, none of bolts these were very tight.
Reassembly needed some trial fits to work out where on the brackets the mounts needed to be, as all the holes in the brackets are quite big and allow a surprising amount of movement of both the mounts to bracket and bracket to block.
The new mounts I bought were from TVR parts and where not identical to the ones I removed, the originals have bumps of extra rubber on the ends and the new ones are flush. The old ones had hardened a bit and were visibly cracking, they’ve done 47K over 11 years.
Hope this helps,
Simon.
After reading threads on here, I bought a set of ratchet spanners which I did use a bit but didn’t actually need. I removed the engine block brackets with the mounts still attached, as the lower nut on each mount block was too close the bracket and the spanners would not go on. This didn’t matter as the brackets were looking tatty so I treated them to a good clean and a coat of silver Hammerite.
Car up on axle stands, wheels off and trolley jack under the sump with a 2” thick block of wood with 1” thick piece of high density foam to level it off. All access was from the wheel arches both side, with the exception of the 100 amp fuse holder which was removed first from the drivers side mount bracket (don’t forget one side of this is live).
My problem was the smaller 13mm bolt, the top of the three on the bracket to the block. Drivers side I could get a spanner on (new ratchet), but passenger side there is lump of aluminium in the way (part of the block casting that hasn’t been machined off and access from below on this side is also blocked by the exhaust). To remove and refit this bolt I used a 3/8 drive socket with a jointed coupling on a long extension to get through the gap between the top chassis rail and the exhaust manifold, a 1/2 drive is too big. I removed the two chassis side bolts into the mounts first and then adjusted the height of the engine on the jack to line up this bolt with the gap.
The other two bracket bolts came out with standard 1/2 U/J drive and extension, none of bolts these were very tight.
Reassembly needed some trial fits to work out where on the brackets the mounts needed to be, as all the holes in the brackets are quite big and allow a surprising amount of movement of both the mounts to bracket and bracket to block.
The new mounts I bought were from TVR parts and where not identical to the ones I removed, the originals have bumps of extra rubber on the ends and the new ones are flush. The old ones had hardened a bit and were visibly cracking, they’ve done 47K over 11 years.
Hope this helps,
Simon.
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