Different design master clutch cylinder
Discussion
I don't know if it's just me, or they all do that, but my master clutch cylinder fails about every year. I have no idea if it's the design, or whatever, but mine fails to often i think. I read in one of the postings on here, i have tried to find it again, but failed, that there is a firm that sells a different make / model / design master clutch cylinder for the Griffith that doesn't fail every year. Is there anyone out there that can point me in the right direction ?
I'm surprised you're having such problems to be honest, can't say I've heard of it being an issue before.
May be worth taking a close look at the pushrod connection on the pedal and make sure that there's no angularity which would introduce a side load into the piston.
Also use dot 5 fluid as the seals tend to last longer with it.
I did replace the clutch cylinder in my cerbera with a willwood item from rally design ( much cheaper) and that had a a double seal arrangement which may be more robust.
Matt
May be worth taking a close look at the pushrod connection on the pedal and make sure that there's no angularity which would introduce a side load into the piston.
Also use dot 5 fluid as the seals tend to last longer with it.
I did replace the clutch cylinder in my cerbera with a willwood item from rally design ( much cheaper) and that had a a double seal arrangement which may be more robust.
Matt
350Matt said:
I'm surprised you're having such problems to be honest, can't say I've heard of it being an issue before.
May be worth taking a close look at the pushrod connection on the pedal and make sure that there's no angularity which would introduce a side load into the piston.
Also use dot 5 fluid as the seals tend to last longer with it.
I did replace the clutch cylinder in my cerbera with a willwood item from rally design ( much cheaper) and that had a a double seal arrangement which may be more robust.
Matt
Hi Matt,May be worth taking a close look at the pushrod connection on the pedal and make sure that there's no angularity which would introduce a side load into the piston.
Also use dot 5 fluid as the seals tend to last longer with it.
I did replace the clutch cylinder in my cerbera with a willwood item from rally design ( much cheaper) and that had a a double seal arrangement which may be more robust.
Matt
I use DOT 5.1 fluid, so that should be ok. I emailed Wilwood the question, maybe they have a cylinder that's more up to the job. I hear from other club members that their cylinders also tend to give up way ahead of schedule.
Fred
I have used a Wilwood clutch master in the past and it is not a direct fit. Yes it fits, but the pipe fitting is different and the supplied arm is very different, I had to swop the arms over and make a new pipe fitting.
Is it any better? Not really. I used it as I needed a bigger bore cylinder.
Is it any better? Not really. I used it as I needed a bigger bore cylinder.
shpub said:
Nope but neither have the ones in the other 9 TVRs that I have owned. Replaced the Wedge one because the seals went a bit iffy and that has been that. I think that was about 8 years ago though...
Not that i don't believe you Steve, but you must be the luckiest man on earth. I know of no Griffith or Chimaera (we don't have Cerberas over here) owner that has a master clutch cylinder of that age, and that still works. I mean you, race the thing and it keeps on working, mine is used on a few track days a year, one holiday in Italy, in total about 10000 km. a year and it gives up about once a year.It must be my muscular leg......
Fred
350Matt said:
May be worth taking a close look at the pushrod connection on the pedal and make sure that there's no angularity which would introduce a side load into the piston.
My Chimaera has two holes drilled close together on the pedal. Using one over the other could certainly cause that type of problem.Gassing Station | Griffith | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff



, mine's LHD and has just failed, so will take a close look at the alignment.