Can I adjust the angle of the drivers window?
Discussion
Eyup,
On the new roof I've got the mk2 version of the roof seals. This is highlighting that while the passenger window fits perfectly, the drivers window sits at a slight angle, giving the a gap between the window and the seal of about 5mm at the front edge, while the back edge is sealed tight.
I've had the door card off and can't find a way of adjusting the angle of the window. The bolts holding the window bracket to the wind up mechanism aren't slotted like I was expecting and there isn't anything else obvious for adjustment.
Is the a way of adjusting the angle or do I have to put spacers on the front edge of the door seal?
Ta.
On the new roof I've got the mk2 version of the roof seals. This is highlighting that while the passenger window fits perfectly, the drivers window sits at a slight angle, giving the a gap between the window and the seal of about 5mm at the front edge, while the back edge is sealed tight.
I've had the door card off and can't find a way of adjusting the angle of the window. The bolts holding the window bracket to the wind up mechanism aren't slotted like I was expecting and there isn't anything else obvious for adjustment.
Is the a way of adjusting the angle or do I have to put spacers on the front edge of the door seal?
Ta.
Glass sit's in a u channel have you tried twisting it in the channel?
I assume the gasket will be quiet tight in the channel so maybe abit of fairy ran down the glass maywell help so you can move it yourself.
A bit risky if you force it too much as you may break the glass but i doubt it.
Your risk though thats what i would do.
V8 Animal
I assume the gasket will be quiet tight in the channel so maybe abit of fairy ran down the glass maywell help so you can move it yourself.
A bit risky if you force it too much as you may break the glass but i doubt it.
Your risk though thats what i would do.
V8 Animal
Not worried about the door card removal Antony. I took it off yesterday and refitted it today. Apart from getting the vinyl (or leather if you're posh) covered bit over the carpet card at the top of the door it was a doddle.
Skinny, long arms are a bonus working on these things eh
From memory then - because wouldn't you know it, I took photos of all the wiring and bolt/screw holes but not one of the window mechanism
The window sits in a U channel about a foot long, which seems to have a piece of rubber either side of the window. Absolutely no chance of pulling the window out of the channel though because I tried.
Fairy - no there's an idea!
The window seems to be sitting nice and square in this channel though.
The two pins you refer to Antony are 10mm bolts on mine, these attach the U channel bracket to the winding mechanism. There are spacers between the bracket and mech. Does this sound like what you are talking about?
One of the bolts is in a very awkward place - between the winding screw and the guide channel.
I didn't notice any other type of pin anywhere. Have I missed the obvious? Or am I confusing terminology. My 10mm is the bolt head and nut size.
Mind you, I tried loosening these and even took one completely out and still couldn't get any movement of the window angle.
Are the channels running up the front and back of the door stopping movement?
Skinny, long arms are a bonus working on these things eh
From memory then - because wouldn't you know it, I took photos of all the wiring and bolt/screw holes but not one of the window mechanism
The window sits in a U channel about a foot long, which seems to have a piece of rubber either side of the window. Absolutely no chance of pulling the window out of the channel though because I tried.
Fairy - no there's an idea!
The window seems to be sitting nice and square in this channel though.
The two pins you refer to Antony are 10mm bolts on mine, these attach the U channel bracket to the winding mechanism. There are spacers between the bracket and mech. Does this sound like what you are talking about?
One of the bolts is in a very awkward place - between the winding screw and the guide channel.
I didn't notice any other type of pin anywhere. Have I missed the obvious? Or am I confusing terminology. My 10mm is the bolt head and nut size.
Mind you, I tried loosening these and even took one completely out and still couldn't get any movement of the window angle.
Are the channels running up the front and back of the door stopping movement?
Barreti said:
Not worried about the door card removal Antony. I took it off yesterday and refitted it today. Apart from getting the vinyl (or leather if you're posh) covered bit over the carpet card at the top of the door it was a doddle.
Skinny, long arms are a bonus working on these things eh
From memory then - because wouldn't you know it, I took photos of all the wiring and bolt/screw holes but not one of the window mechanism
The window sits in a U channel about a foot long, which seems to have a piece of rubber either side of the window. Absolutely no chance of pulling the window out of the channel though because I tried.
Fairy - no there's an idea!
The window seems to be sitting nice and square in this channel though.
The two pins you refer to Antony are 10mm bolts on mine, these attach the U channel bracket to the winding mechanism. There are spacers between the bracket and mech. Does this sound like what you are talking about?
One of the bolts is in a very awkward place - between the winding screw and the guide channel.
I didn't notice any other type of pin anywhere. Have I missed the obvious? Or am I confusing terminology. My 10mm is the bolt head and nut size.
Mind you, I tried loosening these and even took one completely out and still couldn't get any movement of the window angle.
Are the channels running up the front and back of the door stopping movement?
Ian, they are 6mm pins (10mm spanner/socket), you are looking in the correct place.Skinny, long arms are a bonus working on these things eh
From memory then - because wouldn't you know it, I took photos of all the wiring and bolt/screw holes but not one of the window mechanism
The window sits in a U channel about a foot long, which seems to have a piece of rubber either side of the window. Absolutely no chance of pulling the window out of the channel though because I tried.
Fairy - no there's an idea!
The window seems to be sitting nice and square in this channel though.
The two pins you refer to Antony are 10mm bolts on mine, these attach the U channel bracket to the winding mechanism. There are spacers between the bracket and mech. Does this sound like what you are talking about?
One of the bolts is in a very awkward place - between the winding screw and the guide channel.
I didn't notice any other type of pin anywhere. Have I missed the obvious? Or am I confusing terminology. My 10mm is the bolt head and nut size.
Mind you, I tried loosening these and even took one completely out and still couldn't get any movement of the window angle.
Are the channels running up the front and back of the door stopping movement?
One of the nuts is very close to the mechanism, but the mechanism will move slightly when encouraged.
Surprised that there is no play in the holes when both are loosened..
Righto Antony. I'll have another play when it rains later in the week, and elongate the holes if necessary.
Helpful as ever mate. Much appreciated. Thanks
Oh, TVRFOREVER, sorrry mate, I didn't mean to ignore you.
I've got photos of the door card for bolt locations and wiring etc and will photo the window mechanism when I get back into there. I'll get in touch when I've got it all to see if you still want them.
Helpful as ever mate. Much appreciated. Thanks
Oh, TVRFOREVER, sorrry mate, I didn't mean to ignore you.
I've got photos of the door card for bolt locations and wiring etc and will photo the window mechanism when I get back into there. I'll get in touch when I've got it all to see if you still want them.
Edited by Barreti on Sunday 29th June 23:31
Before you go opening out those holes be aware that 5mm is a lot to gain and you probably won't be entirely successful, if at all in achieving a finished result. Not even if you really open those holes. I tried doing exactly what you're thinking after some toe rag smashed the o/s door glass in my Griff, leaving me to fit a replacement glass. I must have had the glass in and out of the door 30 times, fully fixed in place and working every time, and without success at trying to get the glass to close evenly at the front as well as the rear edge evenly. I opened the holes out in the U channel so much I ended up using another one and starting again. You will need to do this, just as Anthony says, but there was a trick to getting it right in my case. I suspect the same will be so for you. If I'm right it will save you hours and much heart ache.
First you need to get the glass as level as you can in relation to front and back edge closure. But you need to do this without going over the top opening up those holes. You'll find that the front hole has been opened up more than the rear one anyway by the Bristol Ave boys. It's an original V.A.G part that seems to be somewhat crude for Griff application, but it does work. Don't go over the top making the holes elongated. Concentrate on getting the glass as level as possible. Even without opening the holes for a first attempt, and establishing a base line to start from. Where it gets good, and simple, is by locating the adjusting screw at the top of the mechanism. It's located about midway along the door top and is found by looking closely in front of the backside window seal and adjusted by using a flat blade screwdriver in an almost vertical position.
Find the adjuster. Get your glass in position and tight, not missing out the spacers that go with the 10mm headed nut and bolts, then close the door with the glass up and the roof on. Check the gap all the way along and compare it with the opposite side, and importantly with the top of the quarter light frame. If the glass is not entirely level along its length in relation to the roof, then play with that adjusting screw until you think it's as close or best it's going to get. The trick I found is not to let it come too high up the quarter light. When you are satisfied or not, then open out or elongate the holes in the glass mount but don't go over the top doing so. I found surprisingly little movement at the top of the glass for a lot of filing in those holes. That trick I mentioned was in my case to keep adjusting the mechanism until the glass allowed the rubber seal to pop over the top of the glass when the door was closed. You may never get the gap entirely even along its closed length, but as long as the glass isn't too high in the frame and the rubber seals pops over the glass when you close the door, it should be somewhere as close as you'll probably ever get it. Horrible job, but you'll be an expert when you've mastered it!
First you need to get the glass as level as you can in relation to front and back edge closure. But you need to do this without going over the top opening up those holes. You'll find that the front hole has been opened up more than the rear one anyway by the Bristol Ave boys. It's an original V.A.G part that seems to be somewhat crude for Griff application, but it does work. Don't go over the top making the holes elongated. Concentrate on getting the glass as level as possible. Even without opening the holes for a first attempt, and establishing a base line to start from. Where it gets good, and simple, is by locating the adjusting screw at the top of the mechanism. It's located about midway along the door top and is found by looking closely in front of the backside window seal and adjusted by using a flat blade screwdriver in an almost vertical position.
Find the adjuster. Get your glass in position and tight, not missing out the spacers that go with the 10mm headed nut and bolts, then close the door with the glass up and the roof on. Check the gap all the way along and compare it with the opposite side, and importantly with the top of the quarter light frame. If the glass is not entirely level along its length in relation to the roof, then play with that adjusting screw until you think it's as close or best it's going to get. The trick I found is not to let it come too high up the quarter light. When you are satisfied or not, then open out or elongate the holes in the glass mount but don't go over the top doing so. I found surprisingly little movement at the top of the glass for a lot of filing in those holes. That trick I mentioned was in my case to keep adjusting the mechanism until the glass allowed the rubber seal to pop over the top of the glass when the door was closed. You may never get the gap entirely even along its closed length, but as long as the glass isn't too high in the frame and the rubber seals pops over the glass when you close the door, it should be somewhere as close as you'll probably ever get it. Horrible job, but you'll be an expert when you've mastered it!
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